Thin Beard Trim and Shave

There are many different variations including the width of the line and what type of mustache if any will be left. In this case we will be demonstrating a thin version with a mustache. You want to see a nice clean line with a sharp defined outline that looks like it was drawn on the face with a marker.

LEARNING OBJECTIVES
  • Understand the dimensions of a narrow width beard trim with or without a mustache
  • Demonstrate a narrow width beard trim cut at a short length with the clippers
  • Demonstrate cutting a defined outline with the finishing clipper
  • Demonstrate a shave while created and creating a more defined outline with a straight razor
  • Demonstrate the post shave skin application
STEP BY STEP GUIDE
  1.  Trim down the hair on the face. Use the detachable blade clipper with 1 blade or adjustable clipper in the open position. Run the clipper over the longer areas of the face. You do not have to run it over the stubble because we will be going over that with the trimmer and/or straight razor. We do not want to go over the same areas too many times. That will cause irritation.
  2. After the beard is trimmed down cut the outline of the beard. Start under the chin and determine how wide the beard will be cut. Follow that line to one side and then the other using the center as the guide. Make sure to follow the shape of the jawline. The angle will seem like you are cutting downward but when the client lifts up their head the beard will be straight.
  3. Round the corners slightly and work up toward the ears. Make the line nice and straight. Sometimes you will have to taper the outline of the beard a little bit to get a sharper outline.
  4. Make the top line of the beard. If there is excess hair preventing you from picturing where the line should be go ahead and remove it with the trimmer. (The trimmer is a lot less irritating to the face than it is the neck. Avoid the trimmer on the neck if you can before shaving.) Follow the jaw line just like on the bottom. Make sure the line is nice and straight and the width is consistent. Move from one side to the other with the center as the guide.
  5. Cut the top line of the chin so it is even with the top line on the cheeks. Square off the goat-tee portion of the mustache even with the corners of the mouth or to the client’s request.
  6. Cut the outside portion of the goat-tee. Clients have different preferences how they like this part trimmed. A good starting point is to follow the angle of the mustache and go from there. That way you have the option of trimming this portion in further.
  7. Line off the mustache at the lowest portion of the lip but taking it completely off the lip.
  8. Finish the side burn areas. Make a straight line on the side burn down toward the top line of the beard. Make sure the width is the same as the jawline portion. When you cut the line with the trimmer push it slightly into the line so it will give a nice clean line before the shave.
  9. Prepare the face for the shave. Apply a hot towel to the face. Let the towel steam for about 60 seconds and then press with both hands into the face. This will further soften the beard and the skin.
  10. Slowly take off the towel and apply the pre shave oil. Massage gently into the skin.
  11. Gently massage moisturizing shaving cream into the skin.
  12. Apply the hot lather over the top of the oil and cream to keep the skin warm.
  13. Begin the shave. Start on the right side and using your free hand stroke shave the cheek area. Shave in downward motion along the side burn area. When you get to the top of the jawline shave into it just a touch and that will give the appearance the beard was drawn on the face. Shave across the face into the side burn area to get the same effect on that portion of the beard. Shave across the face in the opposite direction to the outside of the goat-tee line. Shave into that line slightly as before to leave the sharp line.
  14. Shave the area below the jawline. Wipe the shaving cream off so you can see your line. Face the client toward you and using the freehand stoke shave in the line and the center of the neck area. Make sure to pay attention to the direction the beard grows and shave with that direction never against. Shave extremely lightly over the Adam’s apple. Stretch the skin as much as possible to each side and shave on the sides of it whenever possible.
  15. Shave the inside of the goat-tee area. Shave above the jawline with the freehand stroke. Stretch the skin with the pointer finger and thumb and shave the area in between. Use the front portion of the razor on the right side and the back portion of the razor on the left side. Stand behind the client and shave upward toward the bottom lip using the reverse freehand stroke. Use the front portion of the razor on the left side and the back portion of the razor on the right side.
  16. Shave the other side of the face. Use your backhand stroke and start at the sideburn and shave downward toward the jaw line. Switch to the freehand stroke and shave toward you to finish up the corner of the mustache that could not be reached from the other side. Finish that side of the chin above the jawline.
  17. Shave the area below the other side of the jawline. Wipe the shaving cream off so you can see your line. Face the client toward you and using the backhand stroke shave the line and the top portion of the neck area. Make sure to pay attention to the direction the beard grows and shave with that direction never against.
  18. Stand behind the client and shave the bottom portion of the neck using the reverse freehand stroke. Shave lightly upward in the direction the beard grows until it changes direction.
  19. Apply a cool towel to close the pores.
  20. Gently massage an alcohol free aftershave balm into the skin. Make sure to only rub in the direction of the beard growth. Rubbing against the grain will irritate the skin after shaving.
  21. Blot the excess balm with a clean dry towel and fan the client’s face with it to further dry the skin.
REVIEW QUESTIONS
  1. What needs to be done first before outlining the beard?
  2. Where is the best spot on the face to start the outline of the beard?
  3. What shape should the line under the chin follow to insure a nice straight line when the beard trim is completed?
  4. What is the purpose of the hot towel?
  5. What is applied to the face after the hot towel?
  6. What is the purpose of the pre-shave oil?
  7. What is the purpose of the warm shaving cream?
  8. Should the beard be shaved with the grain or against the grain?
  9. What is applied to the face after the shave to remove the excess shaving cream?
  10. What is the final post-shave application?

AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY
Make sure you know what shape and thickness of the line the client would like. Some like it a little wider others much thinner. Also, make sure the length of the beard. Some clients like the few day growth look that you can see some skin through and others like it much thicker. Always better to start out longer and leave room to go shorter. When shaving, make sure the skin is prepared properly. Be sure to determine the direction the beard grows and shave in that direction. Shaving against the grain can cause serious irritation and ingrown hairs.

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