The Wall Street

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[adrotate banner=”3″]Turn on CNBC you will notice a large number of men working on Wall St. have their hair cut and styled this way. The Wall St. is a medium to longer layer cut with a clean outline around the ears and a tapered or squared off neckline. This haircut is styled with a heavy product (firm gel or pomade) and brushed straight back or with a slight part. This client pays close attention to detail and no hair should be out of place.

[highlight]LEARNING OBJECTIVES[/highlight]

  • Understand how to cut a longer hairstyle.
  • Understand the different ways to pick up and section longer hair.
  • Understand the concept of the square shaped haircut. Leaving weight in the corners so the hair can be styled naturally.
  • Understand the purpose of using a straight razor to texturize hair.
  • Understand how to leave a natural looking hairline on a longer hairstyle.

[highlight]Steps by Step Guide[/highlight]

  1. Start on the top section. Take a section from the front to the crown down the center. Pull the hair straight up with your hand is parallel to floor. This will over direct the bangs to leave the hair longer in the front. If the hairline requires the bangs to be longer elevate your hand higher in the front.
  2. Take one to two sections on either side until you reach the round of the head. The smaller the section the more accurate the cut will be. Make sure you are picking the hair up with your fingers parallel to the floor. This will leave the necessary weight in the corners.
  3. Blend the round of the head section to the top section. Start in the back and take a vertical section holding your fingers parallel to the head. Make sure to take this first section high enough. You want to be at or slightly above the round of the head.
  4. Use this first cut as a traveling guide and work your way around both sides. Make sure to take small sections so the cut is accurate. When you get to the middle or front of the ear stop. Use that area as a stationary guide and over direct the hair from the front to that point. This will leave the hair longer toward the front temple area matching the longer bang area.
  5. Cut the sides and back section. Repeat step 4 taking the next section down.
  6. If the hair is extremely thick you may need to texturize before moving on to the semi-finish. You can use the razor over comb technique, razor sculpting technique, or thinning scissor over comb technique. Whichever technique you decide on, make sure to use the same sectioning techniques as in the layering process.
  7.  Blend the semi-finish area into the sides and back. For this step pick the hair up horizontally and palm cut or use the scissor over comb technique. The length of the hair will determine which technique to use. Do not pick the hair up with your fingers if it is too short. This will result in a choppy uneven haircut. Take an angle with your fingers or the comb from the bottom to the guide you left with the last cutting section from the sides and back. Start in the back and work your way through each side. Make sure to angle your comb or your fingers away from the temple side burn area to match up with the longer temple and bang area.
  8. Use your finishing comb and adjustable clipper to complete the semi-finish. Use a 45 degree angle with the finishing comb for a 1 finger width around the perimeter of the haircut. Use the clipper over comb technique with the adjustable clipper in the open position and taper the hairline and side burn area. Make sure to leave the hairline low and on the natural line. Do not cut into the hairline.
  9. Complete the finish. Use the finishing comb and the t-trimmer and line off the right sideburn. Remember to make the line and then shave into it. Pull the ear down and with the corner of the clipper gently cut off any of the remaining stray hairs. Behind the ear line off the hairline. Make your line the farthest away from the taper that you can while still seeing a line. It will be a faint line. If you try to make too sharp of a line you will cut into the taper and lose the natural look.
  10. The final step of the finishing area is the straight razor shave on sideburns, around the ears, and back of the neck. Apply shaving cream on the areas to be shaved. Start on the right sideburn and grip the side of the head with the palm of your hand. Place your thumb on the side burn and stretch the skin. Shave the bottom of sideburn using a free hand stroke. Next shave the right side of the neck below the ear with a freehand stroke. Move on to the hairline using the freehand stroke all the way across. Use your backhand stoke for the opposite portion of neck below the ear. Lastly use your backhand stroke again for the opposite sideburn. Wipe off excess shaving cream with a clean towel and apply aftershave.
  11. Dry the hair if necessary and style.

[highlight]REVIEW QUESTIONS[/highlight]
What section does the haircut begin in?
How do you cut the front so the hairline is left longer?
What haircutting technique is used in the top section?
What section is cut after the top section?
What haircutting technique is used in the round of the head section?
What needs to be done to thick hair before moving on to the semi-finish?
What haircutting techniques are used to texturize the sides and back area?
What technique is best used in the semi-finish area?
What clipper is used for the finish?
How do you keep the hairline looking natural when making the diagonal line behind the ears?

[highlight]AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY[/highlight]
We are going for a natural looking haircut. Make sure there are not any heavy weight lines. Remember to leave a low natural hairline. You do not want a deep taper with a fuller looking haircut. When styling, make sure to find out if the client prefers a wet look or dry look. If the client has extremely straight hair it may be necessary to blow dry the sides back with high heat to help with the style. Leave-in conditioner will also help stubborn sides lay down easier.