[leadplayer_vid id=”52052D19BBB81″] [adrotate banner=”3″]Walk around any high school and half the boys will have this haircut. The latest movie musicals and teen music performers have made this haircut a huge hit. It has been around for a few years now and we will probably see it for a couple more years. This is one of the most particular clients considering they want to look like they don’t care about their hair. Just get out of the shower flip it to the side and go. To achieve this look there needs to be a lot of texture in the haircut so the style will last all day without much product or styling. Most of the time this version is a compromise with parents who don’t want their child’s hair too long. [highlight]LEARNING OBJECTIVES[/highlight]
- Understand the concept of cutting longer hair.
- Understand how to section longer hair.
- Understand how to cut length without making blunt lines.
- Understand how to cut a hairline without making a blunt line.
- Demonstrate the razor sculpting technique.
- Demonstrate the razor over fingers technique.
- Demonstrate the thumb over razor haircutting technique
- Horseshoe off the top. Avoid using a clip if you can. Guys do not like to look at themselves in the mirror with a clip in their hair. Start the horseshoe at the break in the temple area on both sides.
- Start the haircut by cutting the sides and back sections first. Use the razor over fingers technique with vertical sections. Take ½ – 1 inch wide sections. Pull the hair straight out from the sides of the head. Make sure your fingers are parallel to the side of the head. Using a sawing motion to remove about 1-1 ½ inches of length.
- Repeat this step all the way around to the opposite side making sure to keep the sections small so the traveling guide is visible. This will keep the haircut even all the way around.
- When you get to the back of the head you will need to work down toward the bottom. Keep using the vertical sections and position your hands parallel the head. Do not round your fingers in with the contour of the head. The weight needs to be left at the bottom for the hair to flow correctly.
- Start the semi finish. With a light grip pull the hair away from the temples with the natural fall of the hair. Using the razor over fingers technique, remove the desired amount of hair. Usually will be the same amount as the bulk of the haircut. Follow the natural fall around the outline of the hair and repeat. Remember, this is the shorter version of this haircut so make sure to only leave ¼ of the ear covered. Also, make sure enough hair is left behind the ear so it is visible from the front but not too much where the hair flips out.
- For the finish use a combination of the blade on skin and sculpting techniques around the outline of the haircut. This will remove enough weight so the hair will fall into place when the client shakes their head (the preferred method for styling this haircut).
- Blend the top section with the sides and back sections. Start on the right side and use the thumb over razor technique. Over direct the bangs to the ear and remove the same amount of hair that you did on the sides and back. This will ensure the bangs will not be cut too short. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor to maintain the weight in the corners.
- Repeat step 7 on the middle section. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor and locate the guide. Remove the same amount of hair.
- Repeat step 8 on the left section. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor and locate the guide. Remove the same amount of hair.
- Start in the back and work all the way around the round of the head to ensure the proper blend from the sides to the top. Pull the hair out parallel to the sides of the head and remove any heavy weight line that may have been left. You will see a top guide and a guide from the side. If the hair comes to a point between your fingers there is weight that needs to be removed. If not, leave it alone.
- Cut the bangs. Hold the hair loosely in your fingers and cut with the razor over fingers technique. Cut in the direction the hair grows. The hair will shrink when it dries so don’t take too much. You can always go back when you are done and take a little more.
- The hair is ready to be styled. Check with the client to see if they prefer the dry look or wet look. If dry is the desired look, dry the hair forward to avoid the finish being too puffy. Have the client shake their head to make sure the hair falls correctly.
- What section will the haircut start in?
- What technique will be used in the sides and back section?
- What type of sections is used to pick up the hair in the sides and back section?
- What section is cut after the sides and back section?
- How much of the ear should be left covered for this haircut?
- Which two techniques are used for the finish section?
- When cutting the top what needs to be done to the bangs to avoid cutting them too short?
- What technique is used for cutting the top?
- What technique is used for cutting the bangs?
- What happens to the bangs when they dry?
[highlight]AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY[/highlight] This is a haircut that should fall naturally forward and into place when the client shakes their head. It is extremely important for you to be comfortable with the razor over fingers and thumb over razor techniques. This is the best and easiest way to get the textured look the client wants. For the shorter version of this haircut make sure you only leave ¼ of the ear covered. The hair in the back should only touch the collar and not long enough to flip out.