The Roaring 20’s Haircut

The Roaring 20’s were a rebellious time that numerous TV shows and movies have glorified. All of the men were always dressed to perfection. Top hats and three piece suits were a must. This hairstyle is a longer layered haircut. You will need to have an understanding of graduation and square shape layering. You will also need to understand the concept of a visual blend vs. a technical blend. Most recently actors such as Sean Penn and Ryan Gosling have worn this hairstyle in the movie Gangster Squad which represents the 1920’s time period.

LEARNING OBJECTIVES
  • Understand the concept of graduation
  • Understand the concept of visual blend vs. technical blend
  • Understand the concept of over direction
  • Demonstrate the scissor over fingers layering technique
  • Demonstrate the scissor over comb technique
  • Demonstrate a natural hairline using a straight razor sculpting technique
  • Demonstrate cutting bangs that will be disconnected to the rest of the top and sides
STEP BY STEP GUIDE
  1. All longer haircuts should be freshly shampooed and conditioned to properly section and control the hair.
  2. Section of the right side of the hair into a horse shoe section.
  3. Use the scissor over comb technique to create a graduated length in the sides and back section.
  4. While you are cutting the sides and back section begin to take some of the bulk out of the semi-finish section.
  5. Horseshoe off the left side of the haircut.
  6. Use the scissor over comb technique to create a graduated length in the sides and back section.
  7. While you are cutting the sides and back section begin to take some of the bulk out of the semi-finish section.
  8. Use the scissor over comb technique with the texturizing shears to take out some of the bulk. This will allow the hair to brush back and stay in place. In other words, to avoid a mushroom or bowl look.
  9. Horseshoe off the right side of the haircut and repeat step 8.
  10. Use the razor sculpting technique to create the hairline on the back of the neck. Start a couple of inches above the hairline using a lighter pressure. Gradually increase the pressure as you get to the hairline. This will leave a naturally tapered effect without creating a blunt, straight line that will look like a shelf when the customer holds their neck up.
  11. Prepare the top for blending into the sides. Part the hair evenly down the center.
  12. Start in the back. Pull the hair out from the round of the head section at 90 degrees. Use the scissor over finger technique and cut to the desired length. (Usually 1-2 inches).
  13. Use a traveling guide and take small sections working your way around the right side of the head until you get to the front of the ear. When you get to the front of the ear over direct the bangs to that area. Use the length at the front of the ear as your guide.
  14. Start in the back again and cut the sides and back section. Use the previous cut in the round of the head section as your guide. Pull the hair out at 90 degrees and line up your previous guide with the underneath guide.
  15. Use a traveling guide and work your way around to the front of the ear using small sections. When you get to the front of the ear over direct the bangs to the guide you have created.
  16. Repeat step 12 on the left side.
  17. Repeat step 13 on the left side.
  18. Repeat step 14 on the left side.
  19. Repeat step 15 on the left side.
  20. Cut the bangs. Comb the bangs straight down using a 1-2 inch section. Find the natural part in the temple area. Pull the bangs to the center and locate your left and right guide. Use the palm cutting technique to create a guide for the top section.
  21. Finish the top section. Comb the hair straight back to the front of the ear. Pull the hair up to a 90 degree angle and locate your left and right guide. You should see the hair come to a point and that is all you need to cut. For your last section over direct the hair about 1-2 inches from the crown or pivot so the hair is not cut too short in that area.
  22. Clean up the sideburn area with the clipper over comb technique with the adjustable clipper. Use the blade in the open position for clipper over comb and then close the blade down to clean up the hair in front of the ear.
  23. Complete the finish. Use the trimmer and line off the sideburn area. Clean up any loose hair behind the ear and the sides of the neck without cutting into the hairline.
  24. Clean up the hair off of the back of the neck with an upward trimming motion. Make sure not to get too close to the hairline. You already created a natural hairline with the straight razor.
  25. Brush through the hair one more time and check all angles in your mirror to make sure the blend looks from each direction.
REVIEW QUESTIONS
  1. What do you need to do to the hair before cutting it to make it easier to control?
  2. How should the hair be sectioned off before cutting the sides and back section?
  3. What haircutting technique is used to create graduated length in the sides and back section?
  4. What type of shear is used to remove the excess bulk from the sides and back section before cutting the top?
  5. What type of guide will is used to cut the top section?
  6. To what point on the head should you over direct the bangs to create the desired length?
  7. What tool and technique is used to create a natural hairline?
  8. What tool and technique is used to clean up the sideburn area and blend it into the rest of the haircut?
  9. What is the final thing you should do to make sure the haircut is perfect?
AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY

I cannot stress enough the importance of getting comfortable with sectioning the hair before cutting. With longer hair it is very important to get the top length out of the ways so you can concentrate on the sides and back first. Then it will be much easier to blend the top into the sides. You also need to get comfortable with bang length not being a perfect technical blend with the rest of the haircut. This is called disconnected. The haircut will blend from a visual standpoint but not a technical one.

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