This is one of the most common haircuts you will see in young professionals in any major metropolitan area. It is most common in the early 20’s to late 30’s age groups wearing a suit or business casual clothing to work. This hair cut should not look like the client just walked out of a barbershop or salon. It should have a textured look with a soft natural outline.LEARNING OBJECTIVES
- Identify the tools necessary to complete the haircut.
- Identify the techniques necessary to complete the haircut.
- Explain the in order the steps to complete this haircut.
- Demonstrate the scissor over comb technique.
- Demonstrate the clipper over comb technique.
- Demonstrate a hot lather neck shave.
- Start on the top and establish the center guide. Hold your large scissor comb parallel to the floor from a side to side position. Elevate the bangs at a 90 degree angle and begin cutting the desired length with the large scissor and the scissor over comb technique.
- Make sure to move the comb slow and open and close the scissor fast to leave a blended cut. Move your comb on an imaginary plane parallel to the floor which will allow for the desired length in the crown area. If the crown is cut too short it will stand up.
- Repeat step 2 on the left and right sides. Depending on the size of the scissors being used and the client’s head 2 sections on each side may be necessary. Make sure to remember to keep the comb parallel to the floor. This will leave the necessary weight in the corners for the hair to move or be styled properly.
- Blend the round of the head section to the top section. Hold the large scissor comb parallel to the side of the head and move it through the hair to meet the top guide. If you find this too difficult you can pick the hair up with your fingers. Start in the back and hold your fingers parallel to the round of the head and use the scissor over fingers technique. Work from the center to each side using a traveling guide.
- Blend the sides and back section to the round of the head section. Hold the large scissor comb parallel to the side of the head and move it through the hair to meet the guide at the round of the head. Start on the right side with the scissor over comb technique and work your way around the head. This way you will always see the previous guide in the comb and will not get lost. When you get to the top guide you may have to angle the comb inward slightly to get the perfect blend. Please do not over due this as it will result in taking the weight out of the corners which is what we are trying to achieve.
- Next blend the semi-finish area into the sides and back section. Use the clipper comb at a 45 degree angle and use the clipper over comb technique with the adjustable clipper in the open position. Hold the comb over the ear to leave a fuller hairline. (for a more tapered hairline you will hold the ear down with the comb) At a 45 degree angle cut the hair over the comb elevating the comb at that angle until you run out of hair. Do this all the way around the hairline.
- Repeat step five with the finishing comb and the clipper over comb technique with the adjustable clipper in the open position. The difference for this step is to not elevate the comb as high. In other words you are blending this shorter length into a longer length. Think of the two combs as plastic attachments for the clipper. The same concept as a fade only for longer hair.
- Use the adjustable clipper with the blade on skin technique to leave a natural hairline. At this point the hairline is just about complete. Put the clipper in the open position and with the blade on skin technique shave upward toward the hairline and slowly using a scooping motion pull the clipper away from the neck about a 1/4 to a 1/2 an inch below the neckline.
- Repeat step 7 twice. First with the clipper in the halfway closed position and second with the clipper all the way closed.
- Use the trimmer to complete the finish. Edge up the sideburn area. Pull the ear down and clean up any short hairs that pop out. Behind the ear on the neck line just clean up any stubble. Do not cut into the hairline. On the bottom of the neck repeat step 7 not coming anywhere near the nice natural hairline you just created.
- Texturize the haircut. Repeat the scissor over comb portions of the haircut with the large scissor comb and the 40-44 tooth blending scissor. Depending on the thickness of the hair close the scissor halfway about a 1/2 – 3/4 of an inch down the shaft of the hair. This step will allow the hair to move better and grow in more naturally during the life of the haircut. Extremely important not to overdue this step. Always remember less is better when texturizing or thinning.
- Shave the side burn area and neck with hot lather and straight razor. Do not go near the hairline with the straight razor. Apply the same principle as the next clipper size down. Start the shave about a 1/2 inch below where you left off with the trimmer.
- Style the haircut to the customers liking.
- What section should you begin the haircut on?
- What technique should be used on the top section?
- Describe the optimal speed of the scissor and comb to get a blended cut?
- What section should be cut after the top section?
- What technique is used in the semi-finish area?
- What angle should the clipper comb be held at for the semi-finish section?
- What position should the adjustable clipper be in when cutting a natural hairline.
- Describe the clipper motion used for leaving a natural hairline.
- What tool is used to complete the finish?
Please remember that this haircut should not look like your client just had their haircut. The cut should hold it shape for the life of the haircut as long as the client comes back in a reasonable time frame. Also make sure the outline looks soft and natural. Do not leave any sharp lines.
For a medium length haircut like this one the scissor over comb technique works much better than the scissor over fingers technique. It allows you to take many more sections for better accuracy and efficiency. If you are not sold just count how many times the scissor opens and closes and decide if it is easier to pick the hair up that many times. Remember your goal is to increase your efficiency with more accurate haircuts.