One of the challenges a lot of barbers face is cutting longer men’s hair. With today’s multitude of styles long hair is just as popular as short hair. With that being said one of the things cosmetologists struggle with is giving a long men’s haircut while maintaining a masculine look. This particular haircutting video and lesson plan is ideal for both professions. The client who wears this type of hairstyle is a wash and wear type of guy and does not want to spend a lot of time if any styling it.
- Understand what the terms bald fade or skin fade means.
- Identify the tools necessary for completing this haircut.
- Identify the steps necessary to complete this haircut.
- Understand the principle of starting on the top and working down vs. starting on the bottom and creating a line of demarcation.
- Demonstrate a bald/skin fade.
[highlight]STEP BY STEP GUIDE[/highlight]
- Cut the top sections with the clipper over comb technique. Cut against the grain of the hair so the hair will feed into the comb easier. This is also a contoured shaped haircut so keep the comb parallel to the contour of the head taking off the desired length.
- Cut the crown and pivot areas down so they will not stand up. Again, make sure to keep the comb parallel to the head form. This will allow the hair to grow out evenly.
- Use a wider tooth thinning shear to take out some of the thickness. This will allow the hair to spike up a little bit while also giving a textured looking finish.
- Cut the round of the head section using a 3/8th metal blade or attachment comb. Blend this length into the top section by cutting slightly past the round of the head and blending into the top. If you over exaggerate an imaginary line you will not leave any line of demarcation to blend out.
- Use your next blade length down which is the ¼ inch metal blade or attachment comb. Repeat step 4 but take an imaginary line straight up parallel to the side of the head blending into the round of the head section.
- Repeat step 5 with the 1/8 inch metal blade or attachment comb.
- Repeat step 6 with the 1/16th metal blade or attachment comb.
- Use an adjustable clipper in the open position and repeat step 7. Leave about a sixteenth to a quarter of an inch separation from where you left off with the previous blade.
- Use the adjustable clipper in the halfway closed position next. Repeat step 8 leaving a sixteenth to a quarter of an inch separation from where you left off with the previous blade. Remember to concentrate on guiding the clipper slow and steady on the imaginary plane until you run out of hair. This is what results in the fading effect.
- Use the adjustable clipper in the closed position next. Repeat step 9 leaving a sixteenth to a quarter of an inch separation from where you left off with the previous blade.
- Use your trimmer elevating the case slightly to get a slightly longer length or to blend into the previous step. Repeat step 10 leaving a sixteenth to a quarter of an inch separation from where you left off with the previous blade with a slight flicking or scooping motion.
- Use your trimmer in a normal position to get a close cut. Repeat step 11 leaving a sixteenth to a quarter of an inch separation from where you left off with the previous blade with a slight flicking or scooping motion.
- Use a beard trimmer and start just below where you left off with the the trimmer. Shave down with the grain and then shave upward against the grain stopping just below where you started the downward stroke. This last step will complete the bald fade.
- Which section should you begin the haircut in?
- What is the name of the section cut after the top section?
- What length blade or comb attachment should you start with in the round of the head section?
- What type of clipper is used to get multiple lengths?
- What tool is used to get the bald length on the sides to finish the haircut?
- What two products are used to build the shape of the hairstyle and to give it more shine and hold?
Again, this is one of the most difficult haircuts to perform because of the length of the style. Any imperfection or shadow will show. When you are fading with the longer blades the movement should come from your elbow and your wrist should stay completely still. When you move on to the shorter lengths the fading movement gets shorter and should come from a slight and slow flick of the wrist while you elbow remains completely still. Lastly, even though this style is a high bald fade it should not be so high that the blend is above the round of the head.