[leadplayer_vid id=”52052BB48D366″] [adrotate banner=”3″]The faux hawk is a more modern hairstyle that is a combination between a Mohawk and a regular or conservative haircut. It differs from a Mohawk in that the longer center stops at the crown instead of continuing on down through the center of the back. It differs from a regular or more conservative haircut because it is a contoured shaped haircut with the hair heavier in the center to be styled in that direction. This is the perfect haircut for the client whose hair grows straight forward and toward the center. It is also good for the busy individual who doesn’t have a lot time in the morning to mess around with their hair. Generally the client asking for this haircut will be high school age through late 20’s. [highlight]LEARNING OBJECTIVES[/highlight]
- Understand the concept of a contoured shaped haircut.
- Understand the different thinning and texturizing techniques
- Differentiate a Faux Hawk from a Mohawk haircut.
- Understand how to communicate to the customer the exact design of their Faux Hawk
- Demonstrate the scissor over comb technique.
- Demonstrate the scissor over comb technique with a thinning scissor.
- Demonstrate the razor over comb technique.
[highlight]Step by Step Guide[/highlight]
- Start out in the top section. Comb all of the hair forward in the direction it grows and use the scissor over comb technique to cut the top. Start in the middle section and over direct the front to leave the hair longer to stand up. Cut from the front to back establishing the center guide. Remember that this will be the longest part of the haircut so it will push to the center and stand up. You are better off leaving a little longer than you think. You can always go back and take more off.
- Cut the sections on the sides. Start on the right or left and use the center and front length as your guides. Start to angle the comb down toward the round of the head to get the angle that is required.
- Repeat step 2 until you get to the round of the head.
- When you get to the round of the head create the guide you will blend to before you move on to the sides and back. Hold the comb or your fingers parallel to the round of the head and use the scissor over comb or scissors over fingers technique to cut the hair in this area. Remember to leave the hair a little longer in the back if the crown or pivot is lower so it doesn’t stick out in the back.
- Cut the sides and back section. Use the clipper over comb technique and start in front of the right ear. Use the flat top comb if the hair is extremely thick and long or the clipper comb if the hair is shorter and thinner. (If you are doing a short version of this haircut you will use a blade on skin technique with the desired length blade.) Use the 1 blade on the detachable blade clipper for darker thick hair or the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade for lighter colored fine hair with the clipper over comb technique. Work your way around the head shape always making sure to see the previous guide in the comb. Blend into the previously cut area at the round of the head. Make sure to round the comb into the top section to keep the contoured/rounded shape haircut we looking for.
- Start the semi-finish. Use the clipper comb and the adjustable clipper in the open position with the clipper over comb technique. Hold the comb at a 45 degree angle and trim the hair around the ears. Work all the way around the ears to the hairline in the back. Start the taper by using the same 45 degree angle. Work around to the left side.
- Repeat step 6 with the finishing comb. The smaller comb is used to get a shorter length. This is the same principle as using different size blades or attachments. After using the comb in the back use the clipper without the comb to finish the taper. Use the clipper in the open position and the blade on skin technique. As soon as the clipper blade gets to the hairline start to slowly pull the blade away from the neck in a scooping motion. The slower the better. Repeat this step with the blade half closed and then all the way closed. Each time start the scooping motion about a ¼ – ½ inch lower. This will leave a perfectly blended taper without any lines. Continue on around the left ear.
- Complete the finish. Use the t-trimmer and the finishing comb to complete the outline around the ears and the taper in the back. Start in front of the right ear and line off the side burn if there is no beard. If there is a beard take the corner of the blade and gently trim any excess hair around the ear. The best way to do this is to pull the ear down and just trim any of the hair that pops out. This will ensure you don’t go too high around the ear leaving a “white wall”. There should not be a lot of skin visible between the ear and the hairline. Make a line behind the ear on the neck. Stay on the natural hairline. Do not cut into the taper that has been cut. Use the trimmer correctly. Make the line and then shave into it. Do not drag the clipper down leaving razor burn and red marks on the skin. Shave below the taper on the neck line. Make sure to stop ½ – ¾ inch below the taper so you do not to cut into the taper. Finish the left side the same as the right.
- Texturize the top. Use the straight razor over comb technique to take the desired amount of weight out for the proper look. Use the comb in the exact same sections as when the scissor over comb technique was used for cutting the top length. Move the comb at a moderate speed and cut about 1/3 of the way down the shaft of the hair. Lower will remove more thickness and vice-versa.
- Shave the neck with straight razor and shaving cream. Apply shaving cream on the areas to be shaved. Start on the right sideburn and grip the side of the head with the palm of your hand. Place your thumb on the side burn and stretch the skin. Shave the bottom of sideburn using a free hand stroke. Next shave the right side of the neck below the ear with a freehand stroke. Move on to the hairline using the freehand stroke all the way across. Use your backhand stoke for the opposite portion of neck below the ear. Lastly use your backhand stroke again for the opposite sideburn. Wipe off excess shaving cream with a clean towel and apply aftershave.
- Style the haircut to the client’s preference. Ask the client if they prefer the wet look or dry look. In this case the client prefers the dry look. Completely dry the hair before styling. A thick styling paste will work best to get the particular shape the client is looking for.
- What haircut shape is a Faux Hawk.
- What section does the haircut start in?
- What technique is used in the top section?
- What technique will be used in the sides and back section?
- What technique can be used for a shorter version of the Fauxhawk?
- What clipper is used for the semi-finish section?
- What clipper is used for the finish section?
- What technique is used to texturize the top section?
- What type of hairstyling product works best for a dry finish with a strong hold?
[highlight]AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY[/highlight] Make sure to review the razor over comb technique in the advanced techniques section. Be sure you are comfortable with it before using. There are a couple of ways to style this haircut. You can either mess it up towards the center or style the hair really neat into what looks like a reverse shark fin. Make sure to find out before styling if the client prefers the wet or dry look. This is just one version of this haircut. There are many variations. The younger clients tend to like the hair shorter on top and not as long in the front. In some cases the front bang area will be tapered at the hairline and the longest part of the haircut will be in the center. Always be sure exactly what the clients’ preference is before you start the haircut.