Learn how to cut a flat top hairstyle in the following video and step by step guide. Also, learn how to finish off the cut with the correct styling products to keep the cut looking consistent all day.
Start on the right hand side. Use the 3 ½ (3/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Using the fading technique run the clipper up the side of the head to the temple area. Take an imaginary line parallel to the head straight up from the round of the head until you run out of hair. This will avoid leaving a line that needs to be blended out. Make sure not to follow the contour of the head at the parietal area.
Work the clipper around the head until you get to the back. Run the clipper up to the crown and round it off slightly. Even though this haircut is square in shape the back needs to be rounded off slightly for proper balance.
After the back continue on around the opposite side as in step 3.
Next, blend the sides and back to the top. Even though the top has not been cut yet the corners need the square look from a front and back view. It will be much easier to cut the top flat when there is less hair to work with. Use the clipper over comb technique and either a 1 or 1 ½ blade depending on the thickness of the hair. U Hold the comb parallel to the head and take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair to cut.
Move on to the semi-finish. Use adjustable clipper starting in the longest setting working down to the shortest setting.
Finish the taper with the adjustable clipper working down from the longest to shortest setting.
Complete the finish with the t-trimmer using it correctly as demonstrated in tools of the trade lessons.
After these steps are completed move on to the top. Blow dry the top with a small amount of alcohol free Zorian of New York firm hold styling gel to get an even shape to work with.
Using the large flat top comb and a clipper over comb technique with the 1 blade. Begin in the front and work towards the back. Keep the comb parallel with the floor and comb through the first section in the center. Very small sections will be needed to avoid clipper marks or lines. Move the comb very slowly toward the back angling the comb slightly downward to meet the guide from the sides and back zone.
Move to either the right or left side of the center section and repeat the process. Make sure the center guide and previous guide are visible. This will help to keep the correct speed and sectioning with the comb. Take as many sections as necessary to meet the guide on the sides.
Repeat the above step on opposite side.
When rough cut is complete re-dry the hair with more product for the fine-tuning. Check from every angle in both the wall and hand mirrors.
Touch up any areas that need it.
Lastly, use a fingertip portion of the Zorian Of New York shaping paste for a strong hold and matte finish to hold this difficult growth pattern in place all day. (Optional: Spray with Zorian Of New York finish spray for a non sticky, quick dry finish for added hold)
For more information on customized classes at your barbershop, salon, school, or private training e-mail Greg@HowToCutHair.tv. For more information on becoming a premium retailer of Zorian Of New York men’s products contact Greg@ZorianOfNewYork.com or fill out our wholesale form.
We have just released a new video available to all of our premium members called the Modern Side Part. In this video you will learn how to fade hair correctly as well as how to cut in a side part.
The Modern Side Part hairstyle is a really interesting take on an old classic and is very versatile. The sides are either short or faded really close. The fade can be even all the way around or disconnected on the part side depending on the customers preference. In other words, the hair can be faded all the way up to the part but blended on the opposite side. Finally, the part is cut into the haircut. This is done with the finishing clipper by cutting a thin line along the natural part. Depending on the length on the top the hair can be styled flat to the head or with some height like a Pompadour.
The All American Tapered Haircut is the foundation for the majority of men’s haircuts today. Most barber cuts or men’s haircuts in general start out with some form of this haircut.
The All American Tapered Haircut:
1. Layer the top of the haircut first. This will make it easier to judge how high up on the sides to cut the taper.
2. Cut in the round of the head section to create your guide for the taper.
3. Start with the largest clipper blade and taper or fade into the the guide you created in the round of the head section.
4. Use the next shortest clipper blade and fade or taper into the previous cut leaving off about 1/2 inch below the larger size. This will create the fading or tapering effect.
5. Use your adjustable clipper complete the tapered outline. An adjustable clipper will allow you to take advantage of 3-4 different lengths without having to keep changing attachments.
6. Finalize the haircut with the trimmer. Line off the sideburns and the sides of the back of the neck. Do not make a line across the hairline. Shave in an upward motion making sure not to cut into the hairline.
Be sure to check out our latest Barber DVD’s including the basics of barbering to all of today’s modern haircuts!
A successful career in barbering or any profession for that matter is dependent on many factors. Many books have been written on this subject. When it comes to barbering or men’s haircutting I feel that there are 10 things you must know to have a successful career. In this 10 part blog series I will go into each one in detail.
Barber Success Tips – Part 4
Barbering Tools of the Trade
The tools you will need to be successful in men’s haircutting fall into 4 categories: scissors, clippers, combs, and razors.
1. Clippers: You will need an adjustable clipper with attachments and a trimmer. Also, as you progress through your career and get more comfortable with you clipper cutting adding a more powerful detachable blade clipper such as the Andis MVP or Oster 76 is a must.
2. Scissors: You will need a 6″– 7” barbering scissor for cutting length and a blending scissor. I personally like to have a 6″ scissor for picking up hair and cutting over my fingers and a longer 7″-8″ scissor for the scissor over comb haircutting technique.
3. Combs: You will need a flat top comb and smaller clipper comb with a handle for your clipper cutting. You will also need a large comb for layering hair or scissor over comb work as well as a finishing comb.
4. Razors: You will need a razor for cutting and texturizing hair. It can have a guard on it if you are more comfortable with it. Depending on if you are licensed to shave or not you will also need a straight razor with disposable blades.
Mastering your barber tools will go a long way towards a succeful and rewarding career in barbering.
Many times when beginning a career in barbering or men’s haircutting the barber or cosmetologist will struggle with haircutting techniques for short hair. In particular when the hair is too short to pick up with your fingers and the desired length is longer than using the largest clipper attachment will allow for.
There are two haircutting techniques that are used in this situation. The first one is called scissor over comb. This haircutting technique is when the comb slowly moves through the hair picking it up and the scissor held in the opposite hand opens and closes quickly cutting the hair. This is the oldest technique in barbering. (Yes, there was a time when the electric clipper did not exist.) With time and practice this technique will become second nature and you can start using it on longer hair as well instead of picking it up. You will find this haircutting technique to be much more efficient and accurate than picking up the hair in many small sections.
The second haircutting technique is clipper over comb. This works the same as scissor over comb except you are using a clipper. I recommend using an adjustable clipper or detachable blade clipper but never a trimmer. The trimmer is not powerful enough and the blade is too fine causing clipper lines in the haircut. Another benefit too this technique is you can begin the taper around the outline of the haircut after you finish each section. This will drastically increase the efficiency of your haircutting without increasing your hand speed. It is extremely important that the customer never feels like you are rushing them out of your chair.
Success in men’s haircutting depends on being able to deliver a blended haircut in a reasonable amount of time. This will allow you to give enough haircuts in a day to make a good living. The trick is not to ever let the customer feel rushed. Cutting hair efficiently with these techniques instead of cutting faster will allow you to accomplish this.