I would like to congratulate Tanya Golder from Fort Lauderdale, Florida for completing The Two Day Advanced Barber Training Academy in Albany, New York at Gregory’s Barbershop. Tanya exemplifies what true passion and determination for becoming the best she can be is all about. She has been a member of HowToCutHair.tv for over a year beginning when she was in barber school and into the first six months of her career. We have had the opportunity to get to know each other a little over that time through e-mail and phone conversations. She has been asking all of the right questions and it has been an honor to help steer her in the right direction to start her career in the best barbershop for her. I would recommend anyone in Fort Lauderdale to go see Tanya at the Las Olas Barbershop to get a first class haircut from her.
I absolutely love teaching these one-on-one classes and getting to know and help people from all over the country further their careers. In Tanya’s case she came well prepared. She knew exactly what she wanted to learn and practice. It was so obvious that she came prepared to get the most out of her investment.
On day 1 we covered the usual barbering basic techniques such as scissor over fingers, scissor over comb, clipper over comb, and blade on skin haircutting. We also worked on body positioning and posture, head shapes, sections of the head, and haircut shapes. Due to Tanya’s impressive ability we were able to work on some advanced barbering techniques as well such as razor sculpting, razor over comb, and razor over fingers.
On day two Tanya got the surprise of a lifetime with a 14 inch snow storm. It was the first time if 15 years that she has seen snow. The shop was closed for a snow day but we braved the weather and drove to the shop to work anyway. We finished up our manikin work and I demonstrated 6 different haircuts and a shave on live customers. Tanya diligently took notes and asked plenty of the right questions.
I had a couple of first time moments in my classes that I will never forget. The first is being corrected by Tanya for not referring to a customer by their first name. If you read my blogs you know I stress how important this is. I do not like excuses but I forgot the customers name and it didn’t get by her. The second, which I am very thankful for is: the first haircut I teach on the manikin with long hair has been taking a little bit too long in all of my classes. Tanya showed me a sectioning technique from her cosmetology training that will improve that portion of my seminars in the future (Thanks Tanya!).
I had a great experience teaching this class and am looking forward to visiting Tanya at her barbershop on my next trip to South Florida. Which by the way can’t come soon enough. It is -4 degrees outside at the time of this writing.
When learning how to cut men’s hair, clipper over comb is one of the most basic and fundamental techniques necessary for consistently blended men’s haircuts. The clipper over comb technique is excellent for removing large amounts of thick hair. You will also be able to achieve a different finish on the hair depending on what size blade and/or clipper you use. It is also easier on your hands on days when you will be doing 15 or more haircuts. The length of hair and area of the head you are working on will determine which clipper and comb to use.
How To Cut Men’s Hair – Clipper Over Comb Guide:
A large clipper comb or flat top comb should be used for the top and the sides and back sections. It is excellent for controlling large amounts of thick hair. It moves through the hair with ease because the teeth are wide and these clipper combs are thicker and heavier than most others. This comb should be used in combination with a large detachable blade clipper. The most powerful of clippers is needed for removing large amounts of thick hair.
A smaller clipper comb can also be used for in the top area when blending in a short haircut where the crown is cut off such as a princeton or a flat top. This comb is excellent for blending because the teeth are closer together and it is thinner which allows for picking up the hair closer to the scalp. This comb can be used with the detachable blade clipper for blending fades to the top section and for fine hair worn in a short to medium length. It can also be used with the adjustable clipper in the semi-finish area.
A finishing comb shoud only be used for the semi-finish and finish areas of a man’s haircut. This comb is excellent for the finishing steps because the comb itself is flat without any grooves which allows for the clipper to move across very smoothly. It is also flexible unlike the larger combs which allows for it to bend easier around the ears. This comb can be used with the adjustable clipper for the semi-finish area.
A trimmer should never be used with the clipper over comb techniques. It is not powerful enough and will shorten the life of your clipper. Also, the blade has a very close cut which will result in clipper marks. The object of clipper cutting is to leave a soft blended finish on a man’s haircut.
Clipper cutting is the foundation for classic short men’s haircuts. A complerte clipper cutting system should take advantage of three types of clippers. In this clipper cutting guide you will learn about the different types of clippers, what each one is used for, and the importance of clipper maintenance.
Clipper Cutting Guide
There are three different clippers necessary for men’s haircutting. The first clipper is a detachable blade clipper. It is used for removing larger amounts of thick or wet hair. It is the most powerful clipper and the metal blades move through the hair with ease.
The detachable blade clipper can be used for the blade on skin and clipper over comb techniques.
There are numerous blades for this clipper and they have many uses. They range from ½” in length all the way down to the same size blade that is on a trimmer.
The adjustable clipper. It is has this name because the lever on the side adjusts the length of the blade. The hair is cut shorter and finer with the lever closed and longer and softer in the open position. You can use plastic attachments on this clipper to get longer lengths.
This clipper is excellent for clipper over comb and blade on skin techniques in the semi-finish area of the haircut.
The adjustable clipper uses plastic attachments. The most common lenghts are the ½”, 3/8”, ¼”, 1/8”, and 1/16”. You are much better off referring to the attachments by their lengths rather than numbers. It sounds more professional and different brands have different numbering systems.
The trimmer: This clipper is used for the outline only. The only technique that should be used with this clipper is the blade on skin technique. The teeth are too close together which cause severe clipper marks when used for clipper over comb.
Lastly, you need to make sure your clippers are cleaned, disinfected, and lubricated after every use. By taking care of your blades properly you will increase your efficiency by your blades always cutting properly.
Learing how to cut the high fade – bald fade- skin fade can increase your income. This is currently one of the most popular and common haircuts in barbering. This is a great haircut for any age and all walks of life.
Step By Step Guide For The High Fade – Bald Fade – Skin Fade
Cut the top down with the 2 (¼”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start in the front and cut against the grain (into the curl/wave) toward the crown.
Cut the round of the head section. Use the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper and cut around the round of the head and crown areas against the grain.
Blend the sides and back section into the round of the head. Use the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper and cut up towards the round of the head.
Continue the fade with the 1/16” attachment on the adjustable clipper in the open position followed by the halfway open position and then the closed position.
Repeat step 4 with the adjustable clipper in the open position without an attachment. Follow this with the halfway open position and then the closed position.
Repeat step 5 with your trimmer. Make sure not to go to high and cut into the fade. Use and upward clipper motion in the semi-finish area only.
Outline the haircut. Face the client toward you and make the center cut on the forehead. Do not go too far off the hairline. Gently press the clipper into the hairline creating the center guide. Make a straight line to each temple area off of the center guide.
Line off the temple area. Make sure to leave a distinct corner connecting the front to the temple area. Create an arc from the corner of the temple area down to the side burn area.
Optional: Shave the outline with the straight razor. Stand behind the client and wipe off the shaving cream from the front hairline. Lightly shave into the hairline to create a sharp line.
Shave toward the temple area lightly touching the line. Follow the arc from the temple to the side burn area.
Clipper Cutting is one of the most basic techniques when it comes to mens haircutting. In order to master mens haircutting it is a must to learn how to cut hair with clippers. Especially when it comes to a basic barber haircut such as the flat top.
Step Guide For Clipper Cutting The Flat Top:
Start on the right hand side with the 3 ½ (3/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Using the blade on skin technique run the clipper up the side of the head to the temple area. Take an imaginary line parallel to the head straight up from the round of the head until you run out of hair.
Work the clipper around the head until you get to the back. Run the clipper up to the crown and round it off slightly.
Blend the round of the head section to the top. Even though the top has not been cut yet the corners need the square look from a front and back view. Use the clipper over comb technique and either a 1 or 1 ½ blade depending on the thickness of the hair.
Cut the semi-finish area. Use the 1/8” (1 ½) blade on the detachable blade clipper and use a scooping motion around the perimeter of the haircut.
Finish the taper with the adjustable clipper by using the same scooping motion around the perimeter of the haircut. Start out with the clipper blade open, then halfway open, finishing with the blade closed.
Complete the finish with the t-trimmer by lining of the side burn area, drawing an outline around the ears, and shaving the hair on the back of the neck in a upward scooping motion.
Cut the top section. First, put a light wax or light gel in the hair and dry it with the hairdryer standing straight up in the air. This will allow for a much more even cut.
Using the large flat top comb and a clipper over comb technique with the 1 blade on the detachable blade clipper. Begin in the back and work towards the front. Keep the comb parallel with the floor and cut the first section in the center.
Repeat this process on the right and left sides of the center guide. Make sure the center guide and previous guide is visible in the comb at all times. Keep the comb parallel to the floor.
When rough cut is complete re-dry the hair into place for the fine-tuning. Check from every angle in both the wall and hand mirrors. Touch up any areas of the haircut as needed.