Cut and Style a Faux Hawk with Pomade Cream

Learn how to cut and style a Faux Hawk with pomade cream. This is a great hairstyle for anyone with hair that grows forward and to the center. This particular model also has an extremely difficult hairline to taper out so a few different barbering techniques are necessary such as clipper over comb and scissor over comb.

Start on the top using the barber shear over comb technique. Slightly round the corners leaving the back long enough to lay down. Use the clipper over comb technique on the sides and back before fading. Fade the 3 ¾ blade down to a 3 ½ blade. Keep the fade below the temples. Use a downward clipper motion on the hairline cutting against the grain. Use the clipper and scissor over comb techniques to complete the tapered neckline. Outline the haircut with a t-outliner without leaving a hard line on the back of the neck by using an upward shaving motion pulling the clipper away before you get to the hairline.

For the style start by applying a drop Zorian Of New York firm hold gel. Our gel is a specialty blend of gel and pomade that is alcohol free and contains aloe vera to keep your skin and hair moisturized while avoiding flaking. Using a hair dryer dry the hair forward, to the center, and then up in front. This will mold the hair into place and give fine hair a thicker and fuller look and feel. Finish the style by applying our Zorian Of New York Grooming Cream. Start by taking a full fingertip amount of product out of the jar and completely emulsifying into the palms of your hands. Our grooming cream will give the hair a medium shine and hold that will keep the style all day. It is infused with coconut and lavender oils which moisturize the hair and scalp and also contain essential vitamins to help to keep your hair healthy and strong.  Apply to the hair by pushing forward on the top layer, then to the center, and finally the front to the back down to the roots. Finish by pushing the hair back down with your hands and up in the front while creating texture with your fingertips. The grooming cream is an extremely versatile product that will not harden up but still give a nice hold. Best of all it will rinse out with ease leaving absolutely no leftover residue.

Barber Classes at IBS Las Vegas

IBS Las Vegas

I recently had the honor to teach two barber classes at IBS Las Vegas. It was a pleasure to be associated with such a professional trade show and line up of incredible educators.

My first class was titled: “Eliminate Blending with Reverse Fading”. In this class I taught the importance of starting from the top and working down. In other words if you cut the top first and then begin with your longer blades you avoid leaving a weight line that has to be blended out. Blending is what takes the most time and causes hairstylists and barbers the most stress when it comes to delivering a first class haircut. I had a great model for this class with thick hair that I was also able to demonstrate other barbering techniques such as scissor over fingers, scissor over comb, clipper over comb, over direction to create more length in the front, disconnection, as well as razor sculpting. We finished up with styling techniques featuring our Zorian of New York premium line of men’s hairstyling and shaving products to complete the look.

My second class was titled: “Fades and Flat Tops”. This is one of my favorite classes to teach because of the difficulty of the flat top and its many variations. This is also the haircut that took me personally the longest to learn which makes it so gratifying to teach. In this class we covered the same fading techniques as the previous class. The big difference is with the modern flat top style that I cut I sectioned off the top and cut the sides first. What this accomplished was disconnecting the top from the back of the ear to the front creating a pompadour effect. This style of flat top can also be referred to as a rockabilly flat top. After fading the sides I cut down the top with the scissor over comb technique. Then I applied our Zorian of New York firm hold gel to the damp hair and blow dried the top straight up. Gel is best to get the hair to stand up because once dried it won’t hardened up or is not sticky. Either of these will make it difficult to judge the hair and for the clipper to smoothly glide through. At the end of the hair cut we used our Zorian of New York shaping paste to give the hair a matte finish with a strong hold. All of the hair was brushed up and to the center to complete the modern flat top style.

Once again, if you have never attended the IBS Las Vegas hair show I highly recommend it. There were many classes to choose from including cosmetology, barbering, business, and personal development all taught by reputable and talented educators. I am looking forward to being a part of the show again next year.

Modern Men’s Brushed Back Hairstyle with Undercut Sides

Modern Men’s Brushed Back Hairstyle with Undercut Sides

The modern men’s brushed back hairstyle with undercut sides is a new version of the undercut. The sides and are undercut to the back of the ear and the back of the haircut is tapered or faded and blended to the top. In this version the hair is slightly longer than a tight skin or bald fade. This cut can also be done with one side undercut and the other side disconnected which means it is faded up to the part and not blended to the top adding another dimension to the haircut. As with a lot of today’s men’s hairstyles they can be a combination of 2-3 different hairstyles in one.

Over direct the top back to the back of the ear in order to leave it longer. Use the barber shear over fingers techniques to make your first cut to serve as a guide. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor to make sure you have a square shape.

When you get to the front of the ear the traveling guide becomes a stationary guide. Over direct the hair from the front to the stationary guide and make the final cut.

As you repeat this step on the left and right of the center guide this will leave weight in the corners so the hair combs back or brushes back with ease. Especially in this case where the hair is extremely straight. If you round your fingers when you cut the top the hair will stick out and the style will be out of balance.

Before moving on to the fade use the barber scissor over fingers technique in the back just below the crown. Take vertical sections in between the back of the ears removing bulk. Use the crown as your guide making sure not to cut the hair to short so that it will stick up.

Next, move on to fading the sides and back using a detachable clipper similar to the Oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR or equivalent. You can fade with a 3 ¾ metal blade or use the clipper over comb technique with the 1 ½ blade and a large clipper comb.

Section the top out of the way from the front to the back of the ear clipper cut up to the parietal or temple area to the back or the ear. Fade the hair to the same length all the way up to the hair that is sectioned off being careful not to cut any of the top.

Repeat this step on the opposite side. In the back use the clipper over comb technique and fade to your guide.

Move on to the semi-finish. Use an adjustable clipper such as the Andis Envy, Andis Master, Wahl Designer, Wahl Senior, Oster fast feed, or equivalent in the longest blade setting and use a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out.  Repeat this step with lever adjusted halfway and then the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper. Make sure to blend each side into the beard evenly.

Last, use a t-outliner or trimmer to finish the haircut. Line off the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.

Complete the look by styling the hair. Start out by applying a small amount of alcohol free Zorian of New York firm hold gel infused with aloe vera to the hair and thoroughly dry. This will give the straight hair more body and form the style when dry. Use a vent brush and dry the hair back and to the center.

Next, apply the Zorian of New York classic pomade infused with jojaba seed extract and ginseng. Take a full fingertip portion of the product out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Use your fingertips to get the product down to the roots with a lifting motion. Push the sides down so they do not stick out. Follow with a vent brush for a loose textured look or a fine tooth comb for a tight slicked back look.

HowToCutHair.tv Hands On Barbering Course

On January 12th HowToCutHair.tv held it’s latest hands on barbering course at Gregory’s Barbershop in Delmar, New York. The shop is a perfect place to hold class because it gives the attendees the opportunity to work in an award winning barbershop. It’s always great to work with so many people that are so passionate about men’s cutting and one of the students was attending the class for her second time.

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HowToCutHair.tv Hands On Barbering Course

The course outline for this class was as always very  ambitious. We taught and practiced 6 haircuts in only 8 hours. We started out with a long men’s layered haircut where the class learned the difference between working with a traveling guide and a stationary guide. Next, we moved on to a medium length layered haircut with disconnected bangs. This is a versatile haircut that can be worn to the side or brushed straight back. Always a class favorite is the Pompadour 1950’s style. We always challenge the class to see who can get the top to stand up the highest when styled. From there we moved on to the traditional side part haircut which is the often referred to as “The Barber Shop Regular”. Next, we did a shorter version of the “Barbershop Regular” giving us the opportunity to practice fading techniques with longer clipper attachments and metal clipper blades. Lastly, came the most challenging haircut: “The Flattop”. We consider this the most difficult and challenging haircut because you are cutting a square shape on a round object. The hair is short and any imperfection will show.

This is our most popular class and everyone did an excellent job. Out of the 8 attendees we had two barbers drive 1,000 miles to take the class, one barber 200 miles, and another barber 75 miles. Since the class we have received many updates on how everyone is doing which is always encouraging to us to let us know we have had a part in our students successes.

If you are interested in enrolling in any upcoming on location group classes, on location one on one classes, would like us to come to your barbershop, salon, or school, or would like to find out about any trade show appearances and barbering classes near you please e-mail edu@howtocuthair.tv or call us at (518)629-5394.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 3

This short clipper cut is a modern version of the side part or sometimes referred to as a short pompadour. This hairstyle is generally shorter on the sides with a longer top. Proficiency in clipper over comb as well as scissor over comb is a must to complete a well balanced short clipper cut.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 3

The objective of of this part of the haircut is to create a natural hairline or tapered hairline. This takes place in the semi-finish area of the haircut which is the 1 – 2 finger width area above the ears and shirt collar. To achieve perfection in this area the barbering techniques of clipper over comb and fading is a must. You will also need a high quality adjustable clipper and a finishing comb.

1. Start at the right side burn and use the clipper over comb technique to graduate the hair from shorter to longer.

2. Follow this step around the ear. After using the clipper over comb technique hold the blade at a 45 degree angle and cut around the ear.

3. Repeat step one along the back of the neck. Next, use a scooping motion with clipper lever in the open position right on the neck to graduate the hairline. Repeat this step twice. Once with the lever halfway closed and next with the lever all of the way closed.

4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the opposite side.