HowToCutHair.tv Hands On Barbering Course

On January 12th HowToCutHair.tv held it’s latest hands on barbering course at Gregory’s Barbershop in Delmar, New York. The shop is a perfect place to hold class because it gives the attendees the opportunity to work in an award winning barbershop. It’s always great to work with so many people that are so passionate about men’s cutting and one of the students was attending the class for her second time.

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HowToCutHair.tv Hands On Barbering Course

The course outline for this class was as always very  ambitious. We taught and practiced 6 haircuts in only 8 hours. We started out with a long men’s layered haircut where the class learned the difference between working with a traveling guide and a stationary guide. Next, we moved on to a medium length layered haircut with disconnected bangs. This is a versatile haircut that can be worn to the side or brushed straight back. Always a class favorite is the Pompadour 1950’s style. We always challenge the class to see who can get the top to stand up the highest when styled. From there we moved on to the traditional side part haircut which is the often referred to as “The Barber Shop Regular”. Next, we did a shorter version of the “Barbershop Regular” giving us the opportunity to practice fading techniques with longer clipper attachments and metal clipper blades. Lastly, came the most challenging haircut: “The Flattop”. We consider this the most difficult and challenging haircut because you are cutting a square shape on a round object. The hair is short and any imperfection will show.

This is our most popular class and everyone did an excellent job. Out of the 8 attendees we had two barbers drive 1,000 miles to take the class, one barber 200 miles, and another barber 75 miles. Since the class we have received many updates on how everyone is doing which is always encouraging to us to let us know we have had a part in our students successes.

If you are interested in enrolling in any upcoming on location group classes, on location one on one classes, would like us to come to your barbershop, salon, or school, or would like to find out about any trade show appearances and barbering classes near you please e-mail edu@howtocuthair.tv or call us at (518)629-5394.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 3

This short clipper cut is a modern version of the side part or sometimes referred to as a short pompadour. This hairstyle is generally shorter on the sides with a longer top. Proficiency in clipper over comb as well as scissor over comb is a must to complete a well balanced short clipper cut.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 3

The objective of of this part of the haircut is to create a natural hairline or tapered hairline. This takes place in the semi-finish area of the haircut which is the 1 – 2 finger width area above the ears and shirt collar. To achieve perfection in this area the barbering techniques of clipper over comb and fading is a must. You will also need a high quality adjustable clipper and a finishing comb.

1. Start at the right side burn and use the clipper over comb technique to graduate the hair from shorter to longer.

2. Follow this step around the ear. After using the clipper over comb technique hold the blade at a 45 degree angle and cut around the ear.

3. Repeat step one along the back of the neck. Next, use a scooping motion with clipper lever in the open position right on the neck to graduate the hairline. Repeat this step twice. Once with the lever halfway closed and next with the lever all of the way closed.

4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the opposite side.

 

Short Clipper Cut – Part 2

This short clipper cut is a modern version of the side part. This hairstyle is generally shorter on the sides with a longer top. It is also a very versatile haircut which can be styled in many different ways. This haircut can also be referred to as a short pompadour as well. The most common ways this haircut is styled:

1. Parted to the side with a wet look and some height in the front

2. Parted to the side with a messy dry finish and some height in the front.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 2

1. Use a detachable blade clipper with a number one blade. This clipper and blade combination will remove a large amount of hair with ease. Also use a large clipper comb to control the hair. Start in the right side burn area and use the clipper over comb technique. Cut to but not into the previous guide from the round of the head section.

2. Cut one panel at a time and work your way around the head. Make sure to move the comb slow so you don’t miss any sections. The slower you move the comb the more blended the haircut will be.

3. Dip the comb down slightly in the back to allow for the crown. This will keep the crown length longer so it does not stand up.

4. Complete the above steps to the left side burn and temple area.

How To Cut Curly Hair

How To Cut Curly HairOne of the more challenging men’s hair textures to cut is curly hair. It is difficult to pick up with your fingers and cut evenly. It is also difficult to pick up with a comb using the scissor over comb techniques. That being said it is necessary to take your time and make sure to cut every hair that you are holding in your fingers or comb. Also, be very careful with your barber shear not to dig the point into your finger too hard to grab the hair. Speaking from experience this can result in cutting your finger. A quick tip to make the shorter clipper cut sides and back easier is to use a skip tooth  detachable clipper blade with the clipper over comb technique.

How To Cut Curly Hair

1. Cut the top section. Create a center guide using the scissor over fingers technique and a traveling guide.

2. Cut 1-2 sections to the right and the left of your center guide using the same technique as in step one.

3. Cut the round of the head section. Start in the back and create a center guide using the scissor over finger technique. Hold your fingers parallel to the head.

4. Using a traveling guide and small sections to insure accuracy, cut the hair to the right temple and then to the left temple.

5. Taper the sides and back with the clipper over comb technique. Use a detachable blade clipper with a skip tooth blade which will grab the curly hair much better than a regular blade.

6. Complete the outline. Edge off the sideburns and clean up the back of the neck. Use an upward stroke on the back of the neck with the trimmer to avoid razor burn and cutting into the hairline.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 1

This short clipper cut is a modern version of the side part. This hairstyle is generally shorter on the sides with a longer top. It is also a very versatile haircut which can be styled in many different ways. The most common ways to style this haircut are: parted to the side with a wet look and some height in the front, or to the side with a messy dry finish and some height in the front. This hairstyle can also be referred to as a short pompadour as well. 

Short Clipper Cut – Part 1

1. Cut the top section using a thinning shear over fingers technique. The hair is very thick so it needs to be thinned out and cut at the same time.

2. Start with a center guide. Hold your fingers parallel to the floor and  close the thinning shear three times starting halfway down the shaft of the hair. Use the first cut as your traveling guide and work your way back to the pivot.

3. Repeat step 2 on the right side of your center guide.

4. Repeat step 2 on the left side of your center guide.

5. Cut the front of the hair in the same manner with the thinning shears. Hold your fingers parallel to the forehead instead of parallel to the floor. This will remove thickness and length at the same time.

6. Start in the crown or pivot area and repeat step 5 to the right temple. Hold your fingers parallel to the top part of the round of the head or occipital and parietal areas.

7. Repeat step 7 to the left temple.

 

Stay tuned for part 2 of The Short Clipper Cut coming soon…