In the following free barber video tutorial you will learn how to blend and style a low fade. This traditional version has a longer top with a close low fade. The fade is dropped lower in the back to balance out the longer top to allow more length for the problem cowlick or crown area that stands up easily if cut too short.
Instructional Step Guide:
Cut the top first. Over direct the front back to the middle of the ear in order to leave it longer.
Remove the bulk in the parietal area and just above the occipital area in the back. You can use either the clipper over comb or scissor over comb technique.
Fade with a detachable blade clipper or an adjustable clipper with attachment combs. Use a slow fading motion and blend into the previous cut for a smoother blend.
Create a tapered outline to make the fade stand out. Use an adjustable clipper in the longest blade setting with a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out.
Repeat the previous step with lever adjusted halfway and then to the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper.
Use a trimmer to line off the sideburns and the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.
When the cut is complete style the hair. Blow dry the hair thoroughly with a vent brush by drying the hair forward, then to the side, and then up and back in the front. This will add volume and create the desired shape.
Apply the Zorian Of New York Shaping Paste to create a matte finish. Start by taking a full fingertip amount of product out of the jar and completely emulsifying into the palms of your hands. Our paste will not clump and spreads very easily like a cream but has a very strong hold that will keep the style all day. Apply to the hair by pushing forward on the top layer first, then to the side, and finally, apply from the front to the back down to the roots.
Use a wide tooth comb to get through the thick matte paste and comb into the desired style.
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Learn how to cut and style a Faux Hawk with pomade cream. This is a great hairstyle for anyone with hair that grows forward and to the center. This particular model also has an extremely difficult hairline to taper out so a few different barbering techniques are necessary such as clipper over comb and scissor over comb.
Start on the top using the barber shear over comb technique. Slightly round the corners leaving the back long enough to lay down. Use the clipper over comb technique on the sides and back before fading. Fade the 3 ¾ blade down to a 3 ½ blade. Keep the fade below the temples. Use a downward clipper motion on the hairline cutting against the grain. Use the clipper and scissor over comb techniques to complete the tapered neckline. Outline the haircut with a t-outliner without leaving a hard line on the back of the neck by using an upward shaving motion pulling the clipper away before you get to the hairline.
For the style start by applying a drop Zorian Of New York firm hold gel. Our gel is a specialty blend of gel and pomade that is alcohol free and contains aloe vera to keep your skin and hair moisturized while avoiding flaking. Using a hair dryer dry the hair forward, to the center, and then up in front. This will mold the hair into place and give fine hair a thicker and fuller look and feel. Finish the style by applying our Zorian Of New York Grooming Cream. Start by taking a full fingertip amount of product out of the jar and completely emulsifying into the palms of your hands. Our grooming cream will give the hair a medium shine and hold that will keep the style all day. It is infused with coconut and lavender oils which moisturize the hair and scalp and also contain essential vitamins to help to keep your hair healthy and strong. Apply to the hair by pushing forward on the top layer, then to the center, and finally the front to the back down to the roots. Finish by pushing the hair back down with your hands and up in the front while creating texture with your fingertips. The grooming cream is an extremely versatile product that will not harden up but still give a nice hold. Best of all it will rinse out with ease leaving absolutely no leftover residue.
I recently had the honor to teach two barber classes at IBS Las Vegas. It was a pleasure to be associated with such a professional trade show and line up of incredible educators.
My first class was titled: “Eliminate Blending with Reverse Fading”. In this class I taught the importance of starting from the top and working down. In other words if you cut the top first and then begin with your longer blades you avoid leaving a weight line that has to be blended out. Blending is what takes the most time and causes hairstylists and barbers the most stress when it comes to delivering a first class haircut. I had a great model for this class with thick hair that I was also able to demonstrate other barbering techniques such as scissor over fingers, scissor over comb, clipper over comb, over direction to create more length in the front, disconnection, as well as razor sculpting. We finished up with styling techniques featuring our Zorian of New York premium line of men’s hairstyling and shaving products to complete the look.
My second class was titled: “Fades and Flat Tops”. This is one of my favorite classes to teach because of the difficulty of the flat top and its many variations. This is also the haircut that took me personally the longest to learn which makes it so gratifying to teach. In this class we covered the same fading techniques as the previous class. The big difference is with the modern flat top style that I cut I sectioned off the top and cut the sides first. What this accomplished was disconnecting the top from the back of the ear to the front creating a pompadour effect. This style of flat top can also be referred to as a rockabilly flat top. After fading the sides I cut down the top with the scissor over comb technique. Then I applied our Zorian of New York firm hold gel to the damp hair and blow dried the top straight up. Gel is best to get the hair to stand up because once dried it won’t hardened up or is not sticky. Either of these will make it difficult to judge the hair and for the clipper to smoothly glide through. At the end of the hair cut we used our Zorian of New York shaping paste to give the hair a matte finish with a strong hold. All of the hair was brushed up and to the center to complete the modern flat top style.
Once again, if you have never attended the IBS Las Vegas hair show I highly recommend it. There were many classes to choose from including cosmetology, barbering, business, and personal development all taught by reputable and talented educators. I am looking forward to being a part of the show again next year.
Prom season is upon us and the Princeton Style haircut is an excellent choice for a classic look made popular in the 1950’s. Throughout my career this has been one of the most common haircuts in the barbershop. It is easy to maintain for the customer especially with problem crown areas. With that being said it is a more difficult hairstyle to cut because of the extreme differences in length. In this case the customer has very straight hair so even though the crown area is being cut almost as short as the sides the top has to be left long enough so it can be styled to the side without standing up. This particular model is special to me because I have been personally cutting his hair since he was 3 years old and now I just gave him his senior prom haircut. Next up I will be giving him his going away to college haircut this fall. It is such an honor to be an important and memorable part of so many of these young men’s lives as they are growing up.
Princeton Style Haircut For Prom Season:
1. Use a 3/8th’s attachment comb or metal blade and shave over the pivot area and the sides and back of the head.
2. Taper around the outline of the haircut with an adjustable clipper to leave a low natural finish. Make sure not to go higher than the natural hairline.
3. Use the clipper over comb technique to blend in the crown area to the top. Make sure not to blend too far forward or the hair will stand up.
4. Use the scissor over comb technique on the top section to trim the hair to the desired length.
5. Blow dry the hair into the desired style with a light gel until completely dry.
6. Finish with a dry paste and style to the clients preference.
This is a classic cut that is not going out of style any time soon. It is a great solution for young children with problem crown areas or anyone looking for a low maintenance hairstyle.
The flattop haircut is one of the most basic barber haircuts. With that said basic does not mean easy. You are creating a square shape on a round object and with the hair being so short any imperfection will show. Proficiency with the flattop hairstyle will give you a good understanding of fading techniques, clipper over comb techniques, and scissor over comb techniques. You will also gain an understanding of the square shaped haircut and the concept of leaving weight in the corners that most men’s hairstyles require.
The Flattop Haircut:
1. Fade the sides to the desired length.
2. Taper the outline of the haircut.
3. Blend the round of the head section into the top section using the clipper or scissor over comb technique.
4. Apply a light hold gel to the hair and blow dry the hair so that it is all standing up evenly.
5. Using a large flattop comb and the clipper over comb technique create your center guide. Make sure to leave the front longer and angle slightly downward in the crown area.
6. Repeat step 5 on the left and right sides evening off the top. Make sure to always keep your comb parallel to the floor to ensure the square shape and preserve the corners.
7. Apply the final styling product and complete the final touch up. I recommend spinning the chair 360 degrees and checking from every angle in your mirror before letting the client leave.