Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured Top

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured TopThis short clipper cut hairstyle with textured top for women very popular. Miley Cyrus shocked everyone when she cut her hair off a few years ago but when done correctly these haircuts look incredibly stylish. When cutting these women’s hairstyles an understanding of how to leave a natural feminine outline is especially important. Barbers are increasingly cutting more of these haircuts because of their versatile skills with short hair.  A few different barbering techniques are extremely important to deliver on this hairstyle. They include: barber shear over comb, straight razor over comb, thinning shear over comb, clipper over comb, and clipper blending.

To begin the haircut start on the top. Pick up a center section starting in the front and over direct to the middle of the ear leaving the hair longer in the front. Work all the way back to the crown making sure to leave the hair longer in the crown. Repeat this step on each side of the center guide making sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor. This will ensure keeping a square shape so there is weight in the corners.

Texturize the top using a 23 tooth thinning shear so not to take to much hair out. Use the same technique as the barber shear. Start ⅓ of the way down on the shaft of the hair. Close the scissor 3 times while lifting the shear upward. This will create movement.

Horseshoe of the top preparing the sides and back for clipper over comb. Create graduation using the parietal length as a guide. Use the clipper over comb technique with a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR and a 1 ½ blade. This particular blade is very forgiving and will avoid leaving clipper marks due to the length of the teeth and the width of the blade. This works especially well with light colored hair and/or fine hair.

Using slow strokes clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head.While you have the 1 ½ blade on the detachable blade clipper start the outline of the haircut using a scooping motion to begin creating the tapered finish. This will leave a soft feminine outline for the particular style instead of a tight taper or lining off the outline with a finishing clipper.

If the hairline is thick you can use an adjustable clipper in the open position and halfway closed position as long as you drop the clipper down low enough on the neck leaving the hairline soft. Just make sure to get any fuzz off the neck by the collar if there is hair growing there.

Texturize the parietal area and top further with the straight razor over comb technique. This is just like the scissor over comb technique except you are using a straight razor. Use the same steps as on the top. Take a center section with the comb halfway down the shaft of the hair and move the straight razor quickly so it does not pull. Also, by moving the razor quickly and the comb quickly you control how much weight you take out of the hair. When using the straight razor over comb technique in the parietal area make sure to keep the comb parallel to the sides and back. This will leave the necessary weight at the round of the head for the style.

To style this haircut make sure the hair is completely dry before applying product. The hair will stand up and get more of a messy look if you use a hair dryer blow the hair forward first and the back. Getting the heat down to the roots will lift the hair and bring out the texture. Using a blow dryer dry the hair forward, to the side, and then from front to back.

This client likes a matte or dry finish which is perfect for a short female clipper cut hairstyle. The product to achieve this is the Zorian of New York Shaping Paste. It spreads like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York Shaping Paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized which you will notice when you rinse off your hands. Your skin will feel softer as well. The matte paste is water soluble and will rinse out with ease without any leftover residue.

Take a full fingertip portion out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward first and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Style to your desired messy look with or without a slight part.

 

Modern Men’s Brushed Back Hairstyle with Undercut Sides

Modern Men’s Brushed Back Hairstyle with Undercut Sides

The modern men’s brushed back hairstyle with undercut sides is a new version of the undercut. The sides and are undercut to the back of the ear and the back of the haircut is tapered or faded and blended to the top. In this version the hair is slightly longer than a tight skin or bald fade. This cut can also be done with one side undercut and the other side disconnected which means it is faded up to the part and not blended to the top adding another dimension to the haircut. As with a lot of today’s men’s hairstyles they can be a combination of 2-3 different hairstyles in one.

Over direct the top back to the back of the ear in order to leave it longer. Use the barber shear over fingers techniques to make your first cut to serve as a guide. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor to make sure you have a square shape.

When you get to the front of the ear the traveling guide becomes a stationary guide. Over direct the hair from the front to the stationary guide and make the final cut.

As you repeat this step on the left and right of the center guide this will leave weight in the corners so the hair combs back or brushes back with ease. Especially in this case where the hair is extremely straight. If you round your fingers when you cut the top the hair will stick out and the style will be out of balance.

Before moving on to the fade use the barber scissor over fingers technique in the back just below the crown. Take vertical sections in between the back of the ears removing bulk. Use the crown as your guide making sure not to cut the hair to short so that it will stick up.

Next, move on to fading the sides and back using a detachable clipper similar to the Oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR or equivalent. You can fade with a 3 ¾ metal blade or use the clipper over comb technique with the 1 ½ blade and a large clipper comb.

Section the top out of the way from the front to the back of the ear clipper cut up to the parietal or temple area to the back or the ear. Fade the hair to the same length all the way up to the hair that is sectioned off being careful not to cut any of the top.

Repeat this step on the opposite side. In the back use the clipper over comb technique and fade to your guide.

Move on to the semi-finish. Use an adjustable clipper such as the Andis Envy, Andis Master, Wahl Designer, Wahl Senior, Oster fast feed, or equivalent in the longest blade setting and use a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out.  Repeat this step with lever adjusted halfway and then the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper. Make sure to blend each side into the beard evenly.

Last, use a t-outliner or trimmer to finish the haircut. Line off the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.

Complete the look by styling the hair. Start out by applying a small amount of alcohol free Zorian of New York firm hold gel infused with aloe vera to the hair and thoroughly dry. This will give the straight hair more body and form the style when dry. Use a vent brush and dry the hair back and to the center.

Next, apply the Zorian of New York classic pomade infused with jojaba seed extract and ginseng. Take a full fingertip portion of the product out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Use your fingertips to get the product down to the roots with a lifting motion. Push the sides down so they do not stick out. Follow with a vent brush for a loose textured look or a fine tooth comb for a tight slicked back look.

Low Skin Fade With A Longer Top

IMG_5068The low skin fade with a longer top is one of the most difficult haircuts to deliver. There are many things to take into consideration. A few of them are: How long will the top be?, Where are you going to place the fade?, What type of finished look is the client going for?, and Will you shave the sides or use your shortest clipper?. The answer to a lot of these questions depends on the shape of the clients head, any scalp imperfections he may be trying to cover up, and changes in color or density of the hair.

Low Skin Fade With A Longer Top:

1. Determine the desired length on top and cut the hair accordingly. Start in the center and create your first guide. Follow that guide on the right and left of the center using a traveling guide and keeping you fingers or comb parallel to the floor to maintain a square shape. I prefer the scissor over comb or clipper over comb technique for greater accuracy,

2. Cut the round of the head section using the clipper over comb or scissor over comb technique. This will allow you to remove excess bulk and keep you from cutting too high with the larger blades.

3. Start with the 3/8th’s metal blade or clipper attachment and fade down (not up) to you 1/16th just below the parietal and occipital bones.

4. Create a guide with your adjustable clipper in the fully closed position about 1 inch below where you left off with the 1/16th blade or attachment. Make sure to use a flick of the wrist motion so you do not create a  line.

5. Open up the blade halfway and start the blend by using a scooping motion into heavier area left from the previous step. Repeat by opening up the blade all of the way.

6. Use an outliner to fade up below where you left off in step 4. I don’t start with the trimmer because it leaves a line that is too difficult to blend out.

7. Finish up with a foil shaver to get skin close. Stop a little bit below where you left off in the previous step.

Important Fading Tip: Make sure with each blade or attachment length you leave enough distance between so the fading effect is created without leaving any heavy spots or lines.

 

Short Clipper Cut – Part 3

This short clipper cut is a modern version of the side part or sometimes referred to as a short pompadour. This hairstyle is generally shorter on the sides with a longer top. Proficiency in clipper over comb as well as scissor over comb is a must to complete a well balanced short clipper cut.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 3

The objective of of this part of the haircut is to create a natural hairline or tapered hairline. This takes place in the semi-finish area of the haircut which is the 1 – 2 finger width area above the ears and shirt collar. To achieve perfection in this area the barbering techniques of clipper over comb and fading is a must. You will also need a high quality adjustable clipper and a finishing comb.

1. Start at the right side burn and use the clipper over comb technique to graduate the hair from shorter to longer.

2. Follow this step around the ear. After using the clipper over comb technique hold the blade at a 45 degree angle and cut around the ear.

3. Repeat step one along the back of the neck. Next, use a scooping motion with clipper lever in the open position right on the neck to graduate the hairline. Repeat this step twice. Once with the lever halfway closed and next with the lever all of the way closed.

4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the opposite side.

 

How To Cut A High Fade

How To Cut A High FadeOne of the most challenging haircuts in barbering is the high fade. Everyone’s head shape is different. Everyone’s hair texture is different. When learning how to cut a high fade the two most important things to keep in mind is to never cut past the round of the head and do not take the shortest length too high which will leave you without any room to blend to the top.

How To Cut A High Fade:

1. Start by cutting the top first. Removing the bulk from the top will make it easier to visualize where to best cut the fade.

2. Cut the parietal area. Remove the bulk from this area so you do not lose sight of the cutting blade which can result in not leaving enough room for the blend.

3. Start with you largest blade and work down through the smaller blades. Make sure to leave a little room in between blade sizes to create the fading effect. This will eliminate leaving a line and the blending step altogether.

4. Complete the outline with a trimmer. Line up the side burns and shave the back of the neck with an upward stroke to avoid leaving a line and ruining the taper or fade.

5. Style the hair to the customers preference.