Advanced Barber Class

This past week I had the pleasure of teaching an Advanced Barber Class to Jim from Denver, Colorado. Jim flew all the way across the country to Albany, New York to further his barbering education. He graduated from barber school 6 months ago and is committed to continuing his education to be the very best barber he can be. Advanced Barber Class

Jim spent two days with me at Gregory’s Barbershop. On the first day the shop was closed and we worked one on one with mannequins. We covered a variety of topics and techniques. We started out with the basics. We worked on posture, body positioning, and how to hold the barbering tools properly. Next up were the basic men’s hair cutting techniques: scissor over fingers, scissor over comb, and clipper over comb. These are the building blocks of men’s hair cutting. After the basics we jumped right in to the haircuts that are popular today. We worked on longer men’s layer cuts, pompadours, and shorter clipper cuts. To complete day one Jim observed me on a few live haircuts. I brought in the most difficult fades I could find to demonstrate the proper fading techniques.

On day two Jim got to observe a day live haircuts at the barbershop while we were open as well as experience a relaxing shave and a haircut as a customer. He was able to watch all 8 barbers work and ask questions. This was a great day as he was able to observe all different types of hairstyles on a wide variety of age groups. I was really impressed with the amount of notes Jim took. He made sure he took advantage of all of the education he received and made sure he brought it all home with him.

I would like to congratulate Jim on his hard work and dedication to his new career in barbering!

 

 

 

Greg Zorian’s Barbering Workshops And Seminars

In recent posts I have stressed the importance of in person hands on education. This is especially true for the barber profession. Online education should never replace barber school or cosmetology school where quality hands on education and human interaction are a large part of the curriculum. Online barber education should only  be used as a cost effective tool to stay up to date and supplement a quality education. With this in mind I have recently launched the Greg Zorian’s Barbering Workshops And Seminars company. You can find all of my contact information as well as a description of my 22 year career as a barber and educator at GregZorian.com. I have also posted a 60 minute class I recently taught at the Cosmetology Educators of America’s Annual Seminar titled “Classic Barbering 101”.  You will have a front row seat to one of my most popular live classes without leaving the comfort of your home.

How To Cut The Traditional Men’s Haircut

Learning how to cut the traditional men’s haircut will also teach you the basics of blending. Blending shorter sides to a longer top with a tapered outline will be the foundation for the majority of the short to medium length men’s haircuts you will provide in your career. Master this traditional haircut and you will be on your way to longterm success.

How To Cut The Traditional Men’s Haircut:

  1. Start on the top section in the center. Use the scissor over comb or scissor over fingers technique and start with a center section. Keeping the comb parallel to the floor move it slowly toward the crown with the proper angle so the hair will be left long enough not to stick up.
  2. Repeat step 1 on the right and left sides of the center section. You will have a center guide and a previous guide in the comb. If there is any recession in the corners make sure to over direct the hair to the point of the recession.
  3. Blend the round of the head section to the top section. You can use either scissor over comb or scissor over fingers depending on the length of the hair. Start in the back or crown area and take a section in the center with your fingers or comb positioned parallel to the head. Take small sections and work to the right side and then back to the center and work to the left.
  4. Cut the sides and back section. Use the blade on skin technique with the 3 ¾ (½”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start at the right sideburn and run the clipper up the side of the head slowly.
  5. Finish the blend if needed from the sides and back to the round of the head section. Use the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper and the clipper comb.
  6. Start the semi-finish with the detachable blade clipper and the 1 ½ blade. Use a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut with the tip of the blade.
  7. Continue the semi finish with the adjustable clipper in the open position using the blade on skin technique. Follow this with the clipper blade in the halfway open position and then the closed position.
  8. Complete the finish. Use the t-trimmer to edge off the side burn area and clean up around the ears. Make the diagonal line on the neck behind the ear. Leave the line out as far as possible. Do not go in off the natural hairline and cut into the taper.
  9. Use an upward shaving motion to clean up the back of the neck. The taper is already complete so it is extremely important not to get anywhere near the hairline. Stop ½ -1 inch below the taper so a line is not made.
  10. Optional: The final step of the finishing area is the straight razor shave on sideburns, around the ears, and back of the neck. Apply shaving cream on the areas to be shaved. After shave is complete wipe off excess shaving cream with a clean towel and apply aftershave.

How To Cut The High Fade – Bald Fade – Skin Fade

Learing how to cut the high fade – bald fade- skin fade can increase your income. This is currently one of the most popular and common haircuts in barbering. This is a great haircut for any age and all walks of life.

Step By Step Guide For The High Fade – Bald Fade – Skin Fade

  1. Cut the top down with the 2 (¼”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start in the front and cut against the grain (into the curl/wave) toward the crown.
  2. Cut the round of the head section. Use the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper and cut around the round of the head and crown areas against      the grain.
  3. Blend the sides and back section into the round of the head. Use the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper and cut up towards the round of the      head.
  4. Continue the fade with the 1/16” attachment on the adjustable clipper in the open position followed by the halfway open position and then the closed position.
  5. Repeat step 4 with the adjustable clipper in the open position without an attachment. Follow this with the halfway open position and then the closed      position.
  6. Repeat step 5 with your trimmer. Make sure not to go to high and cut into the fade. Use and upward clipper motion in the semi-finish area only.
  7. Outline the haircut. Face the client toward you and make the center cut on the forehead. Do not go too far off the hairline. Gently press the clipper into the hairline creating the center guide. Make a straight line to each temple area off of the center guide.
  8. Line off the temple area. Make sure to leave a distinct corner connecting the front to the temple area. Create an arc from the corner of the temple area down to the side burn area.
  9. Optional: Shave the outline with the straight razor. Stand behind the client and wipe off the shaving cream from the front hairline. Lightly shave into the hairline      to create a sharp line.
  10. Shave toward the temple area lightly touching the line. Follow the arc from the temple to the side burn area.

How To Cut And Blend The Low Taper

This haircut is a timeless classic. It is a low taper with the hair long enough on top to be styled conservatively. You will see this haircut worn by men and boys of all ages and professions. A close tapered outline perfectly blended into a longer top makes this haircut stand out, especially in uniform or professional dress.

How To Cut And Blend The Low Taper Step By Step Guide:

1.        Start on the top section in the center. Use the scissor over fingers technique and start with the center section. Hold the comb parallel to the floor and pull the hair straight up using the bangs as a guide. Take off the desired length in the first section and this will serve as the traveling guide.

2.        Repeat step 1 on the right and left sides of the center section. You will have a center guide and a previous guide in the comb.

3.        Texturize the top using the scissor over comb technique with the 40-44 thinning scissor. Use the same sectioning as in step 1 and 2.

4.        Blend the round of the head section to the top section. Use the scissor over fingers technique and start in the back or crown area. Take a section in the center with your fingers positioned parallel to the head.

5.        Use the scissor over comb technique to start the first part of the sides and back section. Start at the right front temple. Hold the large scissor comb parallel to the head and blend into the round of the head section.

6.        Continue on the sides and back section with the detachable blade clipper. Start with the 3 ½ (3/8”) blade. Use the blade on skin technique and blend to the previous cut area where you left off with the scissor over comb technique.

7.        Repeat step 6 with the 2 (¼”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start to bevel the clipper slowly away from the head about ¼ of an inch below the previous section.

8.        Repeat step 7 with the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start to bevel the clipper slowly away from the head about ¼ of an inch below the previous section. While the 1/8 inch blade is on the clipper use the clipper over comb technique to soften the blend around the round of the head if there are any heavy spots.

9.        Move on to the semi finish area with the adjustable clipper. Open the lever all of the way leaving it at the longest setting. Use a scooping motion about 1-2 fingers width around the outline of the haircut. Repeat with the lever halfway open and then closed.

10.      Complete the finish. Use the t-trimmer to edge off the side burn area and clean up around the ears and the back of the neck.

11. Style the hair to the clients liking. This haircut looks good with a wet or dry finish.