Barber Training Course at Gregory’s Barbershop

IMG_8298We just completed our latest barber training course at Gregory’s Barbershop in Albany, New York. It was an honor to work with such and incredibly talented and fun group of people. We all had a blast working all day on what is normally a day off in the hair business. This group was extremely hungry to learn everything we could teach them in 9 hours. We covered a lot of ground starting out with the 4 basic barbering techniques: Scissor Over Fingers, Scissor Over Comb, Clipper Over comb, and Blade On Skin. It is our strong feeling that if you can master these four techniques there will be no stopping you when it comes to building your male clientele.

Next up we worked on the two basic shapes of men’s hairstyles. It’s very simple. Men’s haircuts have either a square shape with weight in the corners so the hair does not stand up and can be styled traditionally or they have a contoured shape. All that means is the hair is cut to the contour of the shape of the head. Think brush cuts, ivy league haircuts, and all types of hawks.

After covering the basics we jumped right in to cutting hair. We were able to do five haircuts on our mannequins. We started out with a long men’s layer cut with disconnected bangs. In other words the haircut was blended visually but not technically. The one thing we cautioned the class about was not to confuse the term disconnected for an uneven haircut. Next up was one of the most popular haircuts of all of our barbering seminars: The Pompadour. Think Bruno Mars at the Grammy’s or the halftime show at the Super Bowl. We always have a competition to see who can get their “Pomp” to stand up the tallest. Yes, we actually measure the height of the top to determine the winner. After The Pompadour we moved on to the traditional business cut. Think suit and tie guy. Side part with a nice blend and natural hairline. From there we cut a short version of the Ivy League haircut: think James Bond in “Skyfall”. Last but certainly not least is the dreaded flattop. I say dreaded flattop because most cosmetologists and beginning barbers are extremely afraid of cutting flattops. We are cutting square shape on a round object and it takes a lot of practice.

If you missed out on this sold out class don’t worry there are more to come. Keep an eye out on the blog and sign up for our e-mail list to stay up informed on when and where the next class is going to be held. We hope to see you soon….

How To Cut Men’s Hair – Understanding Haircut Shape And Graduation

Men's Graduated Haircut
Men's Contour Shaped Haircut
Men's Square Shaped Haircut

Learning how to cut men’s hair at an expert level requires an understanding of the different shapes of a man’s haircut and the degree of graduation required for the haircut. These two terms may sound complicated but I am going to make it real simple for you to understand.

Haircut Shape:

There are two basic shapes of a men’s haircut:

  1. Square: Think about a flat top. You are putting a square shape on a round object. The hair is longer in the corners and in the front. The majority of men’s haircuts are very similar. The hair needs to be longer in the bang area so the client can comb them to the side or back, longer in the round of the head section so the hair can be combed down or back without sticking out, and longer in the crown so the hair will not stand up. All of your business type haircuts, classic boys haircuts, and the majority of low fade haircuts fall into this category.
  2. Contoured: These are the haircuts that follow the shape of the head. Instead of leaving the hair longer in the corners or the round of the head section the hair is cut to the shape of the head. Some of these haircuts include brush cuts, faux hawks (and all of their variations), Cesar haircuts, and most variations of short, bed head style haircuts.

Graduation:

This word is nothing more than a fancy way to say taper or fade. It means the hair is gradually cut from shorter to longer. When cutting any men’s hairstyle you need to determine ahead of time the best area of the haircut for the graduation. The area of graduation is determined by the length of the top. The longer the top the more extreme and lower on the head the graduation should be. The shorter the haircut the higher on the head form the graduation can be. The principles are the same whether the haircut is a low skin fade, a blowout haircut, or businessman’s haircut. The only differences are the tools and techniques used.

Through the proper men’s haircutting education and experience these concepts will become second nature. Mastering this attention to detail will keep your barber chair booked up weeks in advance.