How To Cut Hair With A Straight Razor

Learning how to cut hair with a straight razor is an excellent and versatile technique to add to your skill set to become a more versatile barber or cosmetologist. This technique is excellent for men’s hair cutting and any female customers with short hairstyles that come into the barbershop. There are many different straight razor hair cutting techniques including straight razor sculpting, straight razor over comb, and straight razor over fingers. The focus of this article will be on straight razor over comb. This techniques is used to add texture, to remove large amounts of weight, and can also be used for light blending.

Straight Razor Over Comb:

To add texture to a haircut use a large comb to control the hair. Angle the comb slightly inward toward the head to pick up the hair instead of pushing the hair. Grip the razor in the palm of your hand so you have a firm grip. Move the razor through the hair with quick strokes about a quarter of the way down the shaft of the hair. Move the comb slowly upward parallel to the side of the head or the top of the head depending on what section you are working on. This will ensure the cut is even and you are not taking chunks out of the haircut.

To remove large amounts of weight which will be similar to deep point cutting repeat all of the above with the exception of digging deeper into the hair. Cut at least halfway down the shaft of the hair. Just keep in mind how thick the hair is to determine how much weight to take out. The faster you move the comb the less weight you will remove. The slower you move the comb the more weight you will remove.

For light blending repeat all of the steps above with the exception of how deep of a cut you will make. Cut on the very ends of the hair. This will give a similar effect to a blending shear but I have found it to be more effective when dealing with men who have problem crowns to deal with. These are the guys that you have to leave the back longer so it does not stick up but you don’t want the haircut to look like a bowl cut.

It is a great idea if you have not used this technique before to practice it on a mannequin first. Try each of the techniques above and see what happens when you move the comb fast vs. slow. Again, make sure to move the razor quickly so you do not pull the hair. When you complete this practice section you should be able to cross check the cut and see the different types of texture each one leaves. This will give you the best idea of when to use which one of the above techniques.

How To Use The Blending Shear To Cut Length

Throughout the past two decades providing education I have seen and heard just about everything as it relates to blending or texturizing shears. There is definitely a right and wrong way to use them. The focus of this article will be how to use blending shears to cut length. The video below will give you a  live demonstration with the written instructions below to follow along and ensure that you are using this technique correctly.

How To Use The Blending Shear To Cut Length

1. Hold the blending shear properly with your elbow raised slightly to so it will be easier to just move your thumb so only the cutting blade moves.

2. Start halfway down on the shaft of the hair and make a full cut.

3. Slowly raise your fingers holding the hair so are not cutting the hair in the same spot resulting in the hair cut shorter than you or the customer would like.

4. The last cut is the one that will remove the length. Sometimes you will have to close the blending shear more than once to make sure there are no stray pieces of hair left.

The end result for thick hair is you will have a nicely texturized finished with the ends of the hair blending together without any lines of demarcation. This is a great way to give a customer a haircut that will grow in well until he comes back for his next service.

Hands On Barber Training Class

IMG_7760 We are very excited to be holding our popular hands on barber training class  at Gregory’s Barbershop in Delmar, New York on Monday, September 8th. This class always sells out fast so if you are interested in taking your barbering/men’s hair cutting skills to the next level please reserve your seat as soon as possible. Contact Greg at (518)629-5394 or edu@howtocuthair.tv to sign up. The class is limited to 10 students and we will have two instructors so everyone will get plenty of one on one attention.

“This class will also include one male manikin head valued at $49.99, a copy of our Barbering Basics DVD valued at $99.95, as well as all students attending our live events receive 40% off all of our DVDs!” In addition, water, coffee, tea, and a catered lunch will be provided as well!

Hands On Barber Training Class:

Morning Session: 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

  1. Introduction to men’s haircut shape and sections (terminology)
  2. Introduction to basic men’s haircutting techniques (terminology and demonstration)
    1. Scissor Over Fingers
    2. Scissor Over Comb
    3. Clipper Over Comb
    4. Blade On Skin
    5. Class will demonstrate correct holding of tools, body positioning in relation to the head, and correct posture for cutting
    6. Three hands–on haircuts on mannequins incorporating Scissor Over Fingers, Scissor Over Comb, and Clipper Over Comb.
      1. Long men’s layer cut with disconnected bangs
      2. Medium length men’s layer cut with disconnected bangs
      3. Pompadour

Lunch: 1 p.m. – 2 p.m.

Afternoon Session: 2 p.m. – 6 p.m.

  1. Four hands–on haircuts on mannequins focusing on all of the basic men’s haircutting techniques:
    1. Professional Business Haircut
    2. Ivy League Haircut
    3. Flattop
    4. Bald Fade
    5. Q&A

 

Live Hands-On Barber Training Class

We are very excited to be putting on the first barber class of the year at Gregory’s Barbershop in Upstate New York. We sold out all of our men’s hair cutting classes last year and are looking forward to another great year of education!

Live Hands-On Barber Training Class  Live Hands On Barber Class

One full day of barber training from 9 a.m. – 6 p.m.

Morning Session: 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

  1. Introduction to men’s haircut shape and sections (terminology)
  2. Introduction to basic men’s hair cutting techniques (terminology and demonstration)
    1. Scissor Over Fingers
    2. Scissor Over Comb
    3. Clipper Over Comb
    4. Blade On Skin
    5. Class will demonstrate correct holding of tools, body positioning in relation to the head, and correct posture for cutting
    6. Two hands – on haircuts on mannequins incorporating Scissor Over Fingers, Scissor Over Comb, and Clipper Over Comb.
      1. Long men’s layer cut with disconnected bangs
      2. Pompadour

Lunch: 1 p.m. – 2 p.m.

Afternoon Session: 2 p.m. – 6 p.m.

  1. Three hands – on haircuts on mannequins focusing on all of the basic men’s haircutting techniques:
    1. Professional Business Haircut
    2. Ivy League Haircut
    3. Flattop
    4. Bald Fade
    5. Q&A

Please contact edu@howtocuthair.tv or call Greg at 518-629-5394 for pricing options and to reserve your seat.

Barber DVD’s

I just released two brand new Barber DVD’s that are a great way for beginners as well as seasoned barbers and hairstylists to take their men’s hair cutting techniques and skills to the next level.

Barbering Basics DVD
Barbering Basics DVD

The first Barber DVD is titled Barbering Basics. This barber video covers in detail the tools necessary for a building the proper foundation for a career in barbering. You will learn about the different types of barber shears and thinning shears including the best sizes to use and how to maintain them. Then you will get a complete clipper training. Learn the advantages of using three different clippers and the best uses for each. Then I move on to compare the difference between metal clipper blades and plastic clipper attachments. Each one has it’s uses and benefits. After you gain the proper education of  the barber tools it’s time to move on the the haircuts. This barber DVD contains three haircuts which teach the basics of mastering the head and haircut shape of men’s haircuts as well as the most important barbering techniques such as scissor over finger, scissor over comb, clipper over comb, and fading without leaving or having to blend out lines.

The second Barber DVD is titled Modern Barbering. It is here where you will put the foundation learned in the Barbering Basics DVD to use. This barber video covers all of the most popular haircuts in movies and music today. It takes a great understanding of all of the basic barbering techniques to complete these haircuts as well as some of the more advanced barber techniques that are introduced in these men’s hair cutting videos. The popular men’s hairstyles included in this video are:

Modern Barbering
Modern Barbering

1. A longer men’s layer cut which is actually a retro men’s haircut from the 1920’s era which is worn in the movie “The Great Gatsby” by Leonardo DiCaprio.

2. A short fade with a longer stylish top which is similar to Justin Bieber’s new haircut.

3. A classic pompadour which was made popular in the 1950’s and most recently by Bruno Mars.

4. The Princeton Haircut which is also know as an Ivy League Haircut. This is another popular hairstyle from the 1950″s most recently worn by Daniel Craig in the latest James Bond movie.

5. The Undercut. This is another 1920’s classic men’s haircut which is featured in the popular television show Boardwalk Empire worn by actor Micheal Pitt.

6. Last but not least is what I call the “Gentleman’s Taper”. This haircut has been in style for at least the last 100 years if not longer. It is your classic barber shop haircut. You can see a great example of this classic men’s haircut in the popular television show Mad Men.

These Barber DVD’s will be a great addition to your library of educational barber books and videos to refer back to on a continuing basis. These are the barbering techniques and men’s haircuts that will keep you sharp and help to ensure a long successful career in the men’s hair cutting business.