The low skin fade with a longer top is one of the most difficult haircuts to deliver. There are many things to take into consideration. A few of them are: How long will the top be?, Where are you going to place the fade?, What type of finished look is the client going for?, and Will you shave the sides or use your shortest clipper?. The answer to a lot of these questions depends on the shape of the clients head, any scalp imperfections he may be trying to cover up, and changes in color or density of the hair.
Low Skin Fade With A Longer Top:
1. Determine the desired length on top and cut the hair accordingly. Start in the center and create your first guide. Follow that guide on the right and left of the center using a traveling guide and keeping you fingers or comb parallel to the floor to maintain a square shape. I prefer the scissor over comb or clipper over comb technique for greater accuracy,
2. Cut the round of the head section using the clipper over comb or scissor over comb technique. This will allow you to remove excess bulk and keep you from cutting too high with the larger blades.
3. Start with the 3/8th’s metal blade or clipper attachment and fade down (not up) to you 1/16th just below the parietal and occipital bones.
4. Create a guide with your adjustable clipper in the fully closed position about 1 inch below where you left off with the 1/16th blade or attachment. Make sure to use a flick of the wrist motion so you do not create a line.
5. Open up the blade halfway and start the blend by using a scooping motion into heavier area left from the previous step. Repeat by opening up the blade all of the way.
6. Use an outliner to fade up below where you left off in step 4. I don’t start with the trimmer because it leaves a line that is too difficult to blend out.
7. Finish up with a foil shaver to get skin close. Stop a little bit below where you left off in the previous step.
Important Fading Tip: Make sure with each blade or attachment length you leave enough distance between so the fading effect is created without leaving any heavy spots or lines.
I had a great time this past weekend teaching a barber class at Rapunzel Hair Design in Hyde Park, New York. The owner of the salon who paid for the education took a very unique approach to the class that I have not seen before in my career. She has a staff of 5 stylists and invited 8 more local hair stylists to come and observe the class. It is this unselfish attitude toward helping out her fellow hairdressers (I do not like to use the word competition because we are all in this together with enough customers to go around) that has made her successful in the same location for 27 years.
We covered many barbering techniques including scissor over comb, clipper over comb, and fading. We even cut what Andis Clipper Company refers to as “The South of France” hairstyle on her son. The class was very attentive and I look forward to going back and visiting sometime in the near future. I also hope to see many of the attendees at IBS New York where I will cutting hair as a platform artist for the Andis Clipper Company.
We are very excited to release our newest video: The Medium Fade Haircut with a longer textured top. Anytime you are leaving a longer top and cutting the sides very close it can be very challenging. Some of the important things to remember are not to fade higher than the widest point of the head and make sure the blending area is never higher than the front length. These are the two most important instructions in providing a balanced medium fade or any fade for that matter.
One of the most important things to consider when you are learning how to fade hair is how high or how low you are going to cut it. There are a lot of things to consider as you think about this question. Some of them include cowlicks, hair thickness, hair color, head shape, surface of the scalp (lumps, bumps, and/or dents), moles, scars, customer’s age, customer’s job, desired hairstyle, and the customer’s preference.
A very important note to keep in mind is that no matter how good you are at fading hair, if the fade is too high or too low your customer will not think it is a good haircut. If the haircut is 100% technically correct but it is not exactly what the customer wants they won’t be happy. This is especially true with the fade haircut customer. It doesn’t matter if they are a young kid or older suit and tie professional. These are the most particular and hardest customers to please.
This blog will teach how to give a fade haircut with scars. When you are asking the customer how high they like their fade make sure to ask them if they have any scars. If you are uncomfortable asking the customer that question, just spend an extra few seconds combing through the hair in an upward motion so when the hair is lifted up you will see if they have any scars. You will most likely find scars in 2 areas. In the temple region and/or on the occipital area which is just above the nape of the neck. If the scars are any lower than that there is not a lot that can be done. They are most likely going to show no matter what. Just make sure the customer is aware of that before you cut their fade.
If you find scars in the higher areas leave the hair thicker or darker in those areas and fade the hair low. When cutting the fade start arching the blade or floating the blade away from the scalp about ½ inch below the scars so you have room to fade the hair just below the them. If you go any higher you will run into the scars and they will show.