The modern men’s brushed back hairstyle with undercut sides is a new version of the undercut. The sides and are undercut to the back of the ear and the back of the haircut is tapered or faded and blended to the top. In this version the hair is slightly longer than a tight skin or bald fade. This cut can also be done with one side undercut and the other side disconnected which means it is faded up to the part and not blended to the top adding another dimension to the haircut. As with a lot of today’s men’s hairstyles they can be a combination of 2-3 different hairstyles in one.
Over direct the top back to the back of the ear in order to leave it longer. Use the barber shear over fingers techniques to make your first cut to serve as a guide. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor to make sure you have a square shape.
When you get to the front of the ear the traveling guide becomes a stationary guide. Over direct the hair from the front to the stationary guide and make the final cut.
As you repeat this step on the left and right of the center guide this will leave weight in the corners so the hair combs back or brushes back with ease. Especially in this case where the hair is extremely straight. If you round your fingers when you cut the top the hair will stick out and the style will be out of balance.
Before moving on to the fade use the barber scissor over fingers technique in the back just below the crown. Take vertical sections in between the back of the ears removing bulk. Use the crown as your guide making sure not to cut the hair to short so that it will stick up.
Next, move on to fading the sides and back using a detachable clipper similar to the Oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR or equivalent. You can fade with a 3 ¾ metal blade or use the clipper over comb technique with the 1 ½ blade and a large clipper comb.
Section the top out of the way from the front to the back of the ear clipper cut up to the parietal or temple area to the back or the ear. Fade the hair to the same length all the way up to the hair that is sectioned off being careful not to cut any of the top.
Repeat this step on the opposite side. In the back use the clipper over comb technique and fade to your guide.
Move on to the semi-finish. Use an adjustable clipper such as the Andis Envy, Andis Master, Wahl Designer, Wahl Senior, Oster fast feed, or equivalent in the longest blade setting and use a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out. Repeat this step with lever adjusted halfway and then the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper. Make sure to blend each side into the beard evenly.
Last, use a t-outliner or trimmer to finish the haircut. Line off the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.
Complete the look by styling the hair. Start out by applying a small amount of alcohol free Zorian of New York firm hold gel infused with aloe vera to the hair and thoroughly dry. This will give the straight hair more body and form the style when dry. Use a vent brush and dry the hair back and to the center.
Next, apply the Zorian of New York classic pomade infused with jojaba seed extract and ginseng. Take a full fingertip portion of the product out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Use your fingertips to get the product down to the roots with a lifting motion. Push the sides down so they do not stick out. Follow with a vent brush for a loose textured look or a fine tooth comb for a tight slicked back look.