Tag Archives | how to cut men’s hair with scissors

Swivel Thumb Barber Shears

Sensei Swivl Thumb Barber ShearsTraditionally barbers use larger shears with a straight handle or ergonomic handle. This is what I have used for the majority of my career. As of 2 or 3 years ago the side of my  thumb was starting to get really sore where the barber shears would rub when I cut hair. This has been a problem on and off throughout my career due the amount of the scissor over comb technique I use every day.

A few years ago I switched to using swivel thumb barber shears. For me they have been a career saver. The swiveling thumb has allowed me to slightly change the angle of the thumb hole and that part of the barber shear now rests on the back part of my thumb. I have no more pain or soreness regardless of how much of the scissor over comb technique I use. I would highly recommend any barber having similar issues with pain or soreness to give these type of shears a try. They come in all different sizes depending on your comfort level. I recommend a shorter one for picking up hair and cutting over your fingers and a longer one for the barber shear over comb technique. They may feel a little awkward at first but it only took me about a week to get used to them. Now I feel like have been using them my whole career.

Sensei Barbering Shears and Texture Shears

Sensei-23-Tooth-Swivl-SeamlessWe are proud to announce that we are now carrying our favorite Sensei Barbering Shears and Texture Shears that we have trusted for over two decades. For those of you who have never heard of Sensei Shears the following are the reasons why we trust Sensei everyday in our barbershops and now retail them in our online shop:

Sensei Shear Systems was born out of a desire to create a higher standard for the salon tools industry. In all aspects of their operations, from designing innovative products to working with customers new and old, they strive to focus on a combination of quality and affordability which they have successfully accomplished for over 30 years.

It is in our opinion that they make the highest quality and most comfortable barbering shears that hold their sharp edge for an extended period of time. When its time they have the finest sharpening services available. Also, they have a brand new texture/thinning shear that is the absolute best that we have used in over two decades. It does not leave any lines of demarcation when cutting and their is no drag or pull as with traditional barber thinning shears.

If you have any questions on which shears would be a good fit for you contact us at edu@howtocuthair.tv or call (518)629-5394.

Barber Tool Tips: How To Hold Barber Shears

How To Hold Barber ShearsHow To Hold Barber ShearsHow To Hold Barber ShearsIn this new blog series I will be giving you many different tips on barber tools. There is a saying in the trades: : “You are only as good as your tools”. I would like to take that one step further and say that the best tools in the world will not guarantee results, knowing how to use them correctly will.

Barber Tool Tips: How To Hold Barber Shears

Their are three areas that I would like to talk about when it comes to holding your barber shears correctly. The first is hand positioning, the second is body positioning in relation to the head, and the last is your posture.

1. Hand Positioning: Your ring finger should be placed into the barber shear down to just above your second knuckle. Your middle finger and index finger should wrap around the shear applying pressure to secure the shear in your hand. Your thumb should be placed in the shear just above your knuckle and is the only finger that should move when cutting.

2. Body Positioning: You should be standing slightly to the left of your customer with a slight lean away from your customer. This will force your elbow up in the air and support your grip so just your thumb moves. If you stand in front of your work both of your fingers will be moving and the barber shear will not cut properly.

3. Posture: You should be standing without any body lean whatsoever. This will avoid long term back pain or just general fatigue at the end of the day. Make sure your elbow is slightly elevated. This will force you to straighten out your arm and keep your work in front of you. This will in turn force you to stand upright with the correct posture.

It will be very easy to tell if you are not performing the above tasks correctly. You will be feeling extreme fatigue in your lower back at the end of your work day. It may feel awkward at first but if you take a quick peek at yourself in the mirror you will be able to see that you posture is correct. With time and practice this process will become automatic.

Man Of Steel’s Haircut

Man of Steel Haircut

With the latest Superman movie we have a new hero – Henry Cavill. So of course I have to write a blog about The Man Of Steel’s Haircut. As I have said in many previous how to blogs medium to  longer length hairstyles are making a comeback. The latest Superman’s haircut is a medium length square shaped haircut  which preserves the natural wave and thickness for the best looking finish.

The Man Of Steel’s Haircut

1. Start on the top section. Elevate the bangs to 90 degrees with a slight over direction to leave the bangs a little bit longer. The hair should be left about 4 inches long. Take small sections using the first section as your guide back toward the crown. Make sure to leave the crown long enough so it does not stand up. Follow this step on the left and right of the center guide until you run out of hair. Make sure you keep your fingers parallel to the floor to keep the square shape.

2. Cut the round of the head section starting in the back. Take a section in the middle pulling the hair out at 90 degrees with vertical sectioning leaving the hair about 4 inches long. Do not cut into the guide from the top section. Follow this guide to the right and then to the left. Take small sections to ensure accuracy. When you get to the temples over direct the last section the same distance as you over directed the bangs so the outline is slightly longer as well.

Superman's Haircut3. Cut the sides and back section. This is the same as step two except angle your fingers slightly so the hair in this section will taper down to about 3 inches long.

4. Cut the semi-finish section. Start in the back at the hairline and use horizontal sectioning and the palm cutting technique. Pull the hair out to 90 degrees and leave the first cut at about 2 inches. Take small sections and work your way up to the previous guide from section 3 without cutting into that guide. This will leave the haircut with a slight graduation around the perimeter of the haircut. Complete this step to the right and then to the left.

5. (Optional) Slightly texturize the hair if necessary. Use a fine tooth thinning shear and repeat all of the above step only closing the scissor about half way. This will take out just enough thickness without removing the natural wave.

6. Complete the outline. This is a little tricky with a medium length layer cut because you do not want any hard lines other than on the sideburns. Dampen the hair and brush it  into place. Now edge off the side burn with a trimmer and touch up any longer hair in front of the ear. Just clean up any fuzz left on the neck without getting to close to the hairline to complete the natural finish.

7. Complete the style. I would suggest a pomade or styling cream that leaves the hair with a wet looking finish and will not harden up like a gel.

Final Suggestions: Make sure to keep the square shape. If you round the top off the haircut will be unbalanced. Leave the hair long enough to preserve the natural wave. You can always cut shorter if you need to. If the hair is thick and needs some texturizing make sure that you do not take out to much bulk removing the natural wave in the process.

 

 

Barber Success Tips – Part 8

Scissor Over CombA successful career in barbering or any profession for that matter is dependent on many factors. Many books have been written on this subject. When it comes to barbering or men’s haircutting I feel that there are 10 things you must know to have a successful career. In this 10 part blog series I will go into each one in detail.

Barber Success Tips – Part 8

Scissor Over Comb – The Ultimate Technique For Men’s Haircutting.

I refer to this as the secret weapon in men’s haircutting. Scissor over comb is the oldest and most efficeint men’s haircutting technique . There was a time when the electric clipper did not exist and all cutting was done with different size combs, scissors, hand clippers, and straight razors. Clients associate a higher level of skill with this technique instead of just putting an attachment on a clipper an running a number 3 up the sides. This is a great way to show your clients that you have a superior skill level and take a lot of pride in your haircuts.

Stay tuned for barber success tips part 9