Tag Archives | how to cut men’s hair with scissors

Barber Tool Tips: How To Hold Barber Shears

How To Hold Barber ShearsHow To Hold Barber ShearsHow To Hold Barber ShearsIn this new blog series I will be giving you many different tips on barber tools. There is a saying in the trades: : “You are only as good as your tools”. I would like to take that one step further and say that the best tools in the world will not guarantee results, knowing how to use them correctly will.

Barber Tool Tips: How To Hold Barber Shears

Their are three areas that I would like to talk about when it comes to holding your barber shears correctly. The first is hand positioning, the second is body positioning in relation to the head, and the last is your posture.

1. Hand Positioning: Your ring finger should be placed into the barber shear down to just above your second knuckle. Your middle finger and index finger should wrap around the shear applying pressure to secure the shear in your hand. Your thumb should be placed in the shear just above your knuckle and is the only finger that should move when cutting.

2. Body Positioning: You should be standing slightly to the left of your customer with a slight lean away from your customer. This will force your elbow up in the air and support your grip so just your thumb moves. If you stand in front of your work both of your fingers will be moving and the barber shear will not cut properly.

3. Posture: You should be standing without any body lean whatsoever. This will avoid long term back pain or just general fatigue at the end of the day. Make sure your elbow is slightly elevated. This will force you to straighten out your arm and keep your work in front of you. This will in turn force you to stand upright with the correct posture.

It will be very easy to tell if you are not performing the above tasks correctly. You will be feeling extreme fatigue in your lower back at the end of your work day. It may feel awkward at first but if you take a quick peek at yourself in the mirror you will be able to see that you posture is correct. With time and practice this process will become automatic.

Man Of Steel’s Haircut

Man of Steel Haircut

With the latest Superman movie we have a new hero – Henry Cavill. So of course I have to write a blog about The Man Of Steel’s Haircut. As I have said in many previous how to blogs medium to  longer length hairstyles are making a comeback. The latest Superman’s haircut is a medium length square shaped haircut  which preserves the natural wave and thickness for the best looking finish.

The Man Of Steel’s Haircut

1. Start on the top section. Elevate the bangs to 90 degrees with a slight over direction to leave the bangs a little bit longer. The hair should be left about 4 inches long. Take small sections using the first section as your guide back toward the crown. Make sure to leave the crown long enough so it does not stand up. Follow this step on the left and right of the center guide until you run out of hair. Make sure you keep your fingers parallel to the floor to keep the square shape.

2. Cut the round of the head section starting in the back. Take a section in the middle pulling the hair out at 90 degrees with vertical sectioning leaving the hair about 4 inches long. Do not cut into the guide from the top section. Follow this guide to the right and then to the left. Take small sections to ensure accuracy. When you get to the temples over direct the last section the same distance as you over directed the bangs so the outline is slightly longer as well.

Superman's Haircut3. Cut the sides and back section. This is the same as step two except angle your fingers slightly so the hair in this section will taper down to about 3 inches long.

4. Cut the semi-finish section. Start in the back at the hairline and use horizontal sectioning and the palm cutting technique. Pull the hair out to 90 degrees and leave the first cut at about 2 inches. Take small sections and work your way up to the previous guide from section 3 without cutting into that guide. This will leave the haircut with a slight graduation around the perimeter of the haircut. Complete this step to the right and then to the left.

5. (Optional) Slightly texturize the hair if necessary. Use a fine tooth thinning shear and repeat all of the above step only closing the scissor about half way. This will take out just enough thickness without removing the natural wave.

6. Complete the outline. This is a little tricky with a medium length layer cut because you do not want any hard lines other than on the sideburns. Dampen the hair and brush it  into place. Now edge off the side burn with a trimmer and touch up any longer hair in front of the ear. Just clean up any fuzz left on the neck without getting to close to the hairline to complete the natural finish.

7. Complete the style. I would suggest a pomade or styling cream that leaves the hair with a wet looking finish and will not harden up like a gel.

Final Suggestions: Make sure to keep the square shape. If you round the top off the haircut will be unbalanced. Leave the hair long enough to preserve the natural wave. You can always cut shorter if you need to. If the hair is thick and needs some texturizing make sure that you do not take out to much bulk removing the natural wave in the process.



Barber Success Tips – Part 8

Scissor Over CombA successful career in barbering or any profession for that matter is dependent on many factors. Many books have been written on this subject. When it comes to barbering or men’s haircutting I feel that there are 10 things you must know to have a successful career. In this 10 part blog series I will go into each one in detail.

Barber Success Tips – Part 8

Scissor Over Comb – The Ultimate Technique For Men’s Haircutting.

I refer to this as the secret weapon in men’s haircutting. Scissor over comb is the oldest and most efficeint men’s haircutting technique . There was a time when the electric clipper did not exist and all cutting was done with different size combs, scissors, hand clippers, and straight razors. Clients associate a higher level of skill with this technique instead of just putting an attachment on a clipper an running a number 3 up the sides. This is a great way to show your clients that you have a superior skill level and take a lot of pride in your haircuts.

Stay tuned for barber success tips part 9

Men’s Cutting Class At ISSE Long Beach 2013

I just finished up teaching a men’s cutting class at ISSE Long Beach 2013. I live in upstateNew York so it was great to get some sunshine and warm weather! Most importantly I made 40 new friends in the class.

We spent three hours training on manequinns. The focus of the class was to learn the  basics of  barbering beginning with the four basic haircutting techniques: scissor over fingers, scissor over comb, clipper over comb, and blade on skin. Then we moved on two the shapes of men’s haircuts: square and contoured. We began with a long haired male manequinn and worked our way down to a pompadour with a graduated clipper cut on the sides. Another focus of the course was working with a traveling giude instead of a lot of uneccessary sectioning for increased effiencey. We also spent quite a bit of time on overdirecting techniques to accomplish todays modern hairstyles with longer tops blended into shorter tapered sides.

I want to take this opportunity to congratulate everyone in the class on a job well done. I would also like to thank everyone for paying close attention and following along. There were no distractions and all of attendees were extremely attentive and professional. I would definately say this was a great expereince for me as an educator. I left with some great feedback on how I can continue to improve my classes.

How To Cut A Graduated Men’s Haircut

Learning how to cut a graduated men’s haircut is an important skill to have no matter what length haircut you are giving. Most short to medium length haircuts have some degree of graduation. Even fades have graduation. The word “graduation” as it is referred to in haircutting means shorter to longer without a line of demarcation.

Step By Step Guide For Learning How To Cut A Graduated Men’s Haircut:

1.        Start on the top and establish the center guide. Hold your large scissor comb parallel to the floor from a side to side position. Elevate the bangs at a 90 degree angle and begin cutting the desired length with the large scissor and the scissor over comb technique.

2.        Make sure to move the comb slow and open and close the scissor fast to leave a blended cut. Move your comb on an imaginary plane parallel to the floor which will allow for the desired length in the crown area. If the crown is cut too short it will stand up.

3.        Repeat step 2 on the left and right sides. Depending on the size of the scissors being used and the client’s head 2 sections on each side may be necessary. Make sure to remember to keep the comb parallel to the floor. This will leave the necessary weight in the corners for the hair to move or be styled properly.

4.        Blend the round of the head section to the top section. Hold the large scissor comb parallel to the side of the head and move it through the hair to meet the top guide. If you find this too difficult you can pick the hair up with your fingers. Start in the back and hold your fingers parallel to the round of the head and use the scissor over fingers technique. Work from the center to each side using a traveling guide.

5.        Blend the sides and back section to the round of the head section. Hold the large scissor comb parallel to the side of the head and move it through the hair to meet the guide at the round of the head. Start on the right side with the scissor over comb technique and work your way around the head. This way you will always see the previous guide in the comb and will not get lost. When you get to the top guide you may have to angle the comb inward slightly to get the perfect blend. Please do not over due this as it will result in taking the weight out of the corners which is what we are trying to achieve.

6.        Next blend the semi-finish area into the sides and back section. Use the clipper comb at a 45 degree angle and use the clipper over comb technique with the adjustable clipper in the open position. Hold the comb over the ear to leave a fuller hairline. (for a more tapered hairline you will hold the ear down with the comb) At a 45 degree angle cut the hair over the comb elevating the comb at that angle until you run out of hair. Do this all the way around the hairline.

7.        Repeat step five with the finishing comb and the clipper over comb technique with the adjustable clipper in the open position. The difference for this step is to not elevate the comb as high. In other words you are blending this shorter length into a longer length.

8.        Use the adjustable clipper with the blade on skin technique to leave a natural hairline. At this point the hairline is just about complete. Put the clipper in the open position and with the blade on skin technique shave upward toward the hairline and slowly using a scooping motion pull the clipper away from the neck about a 1/4 to a 1/2 an inch below the neckline.

9.        Repeat step 7 twice. First with the clipper in the halfway closed position and second with the clipper all the way closed.

10.      Use the trimmer to complete the finish. Edge up the sideburn area. Pull the ear down and clean up any short hairs that pop out. Do not cut into the hairline. On the bottom of the neck repeat step 7 not coming anywhere near the nice natural hairline you just created.

11.      Texturize the haircut. Repeat the scissor over comb portions of the haircut with the large scissor comb and the 40-44 tooth blending scissor. Depending on the thickness of the hair close the scissor halfway about a 1/2 – 3/4 of an inch down the shaft of the hair. This step will allow the hair to move better and grow in more naturally during the life of the haircut. Always remember less is better when texturizing or thinning.

13.      Style the haircut to the customers liking.