Comb Over with Hard Part

The Comb over with hard part is the most popular haircut in the barbering world today. I have been in the industry as a service provider and educator for over two decades and it is always interesting and fun to keep up with the changes on the classic haircuts. This particular cut when I started was referred to as a regular boy’s haircut. Now with the modern/retro twist (this is actually a 1920’s style) the name has changed and so have some of the techniques. Such as when I started no one would ever think of taking a straight razor and shave in the part area. Also, pomades were just starting to get popular but most haircuts were styled with gel, hair spray, or a combination of the two.

In this video you will learn many different barbering techniques including: barber shear over comb, thinning shear over comb, fading, blending, and straight razor shaving. You will also learn the finer points on the hand dexterity necessary for these techniques. In other words: how to hold the comb, shears, clippers, and straight razor properly allowing for the correct posture as well as optimum finished results.

For this particular haircut we have combined three different styles into one: a side part, an ivy league, and a hard part. The side part is self-explanatory. A classic young man’s haircut. The Ivy League takes it a step further. We cut the crown off and blend it to the top making it much easier to style. Works especially well for young children with difficult cowlicks and just want to get up and go. Lastly, the hard part. We first cut in the part with the trimmer and follow up with the straight razor. In this case we used our Zorian Of New York Shave Gel to get a nice clean line. It is a thick transparent gel infused with aloe vera and shea butter to form a protective barrier between the skin and razor and allow for ultimate comfort without razor burn.

Finally, to complete the finish product comes the styling portion. Very few short haircuts look good without spending some time styling and using one or two products. To get the perfect finished looked we created the shape by blowing drying the hair into place with a small amount of our Zorian Of New York firm hold gel. This will give the straight hair some body and mold difficult hair into place. Lastly, we apply the Zorian Of New York water soluble classic pomade for a high shine which will make the hard part stand out even more and give the hair a strong hold that will last all day. It is very important that the hair is completely dry when the pomade is applied. If the hair is slightly damp it will dilute the product and will not firm up and give the hair a firm hold.

Learn How To Fade Hair

One of the most important things to consider when you learn how to fade hair is how high or how low the fade should be cut. There are a lot of things to consider as you think about this question. Some of them include cowlicks, hair thickness, hair color, the length of the bangs, shape of the head, surface of the scalp (lumps, bumps, and/or dents), moles, scars, customer’s age, customer’s job, desired hairstyle, and the customer’s preference.

A very important note to keep in mind is that no matter how good you are at fading hair, if the fade is too high or too low your customer will not think it is a good haircut. If the haircut is 100% technically correct but it is not exactly what the customer wants they won’t be happy. This is especially true with the fade haircut customer. It doesn’t matter if they are a young kid or older suit and tie professional. These are the most particular and hardest customers to please.

This blog is going to cover how high to cut the fade in relation to the length of the bangs. The height of the fade should be balanced properly with the length of the bangs. The fade should never be higher than the bangs.

This is a little tricky because with most of today’s styles the bangs are either pushed up, combed to the side, or brushed straight back. For these styles cut the top first and then comb the bangs straight forward before beginning the fade. When you are clipper cutting the sides, start arching the clipper away from the head about a half of an inch below the bangs. This will leave enough room to blend the sides to the top without fading the hair too high.

This is a little easier with the shorter styles that get an edge-up. Make sure to leave yourself enough room so the fade stops where the edge-up in the temple and forehead begins. This will ensure the proper balance.