In the following free barber video tutorial you will learn how to blend and style a low fade. This traditional version has a longer top with a close low fade. The fade is dropped lower in the back to balance out the longer top to allow more length for the problem cowlick or crown area that stands up easily if cut too short.
Instructional Step Guide:
Cut the top first. Over direct the front back to the middle of the ear in order to leave it longer.
Remove the bulk in the parietal area and just above the occipital area in the back. You can use either the clipper over comb or scissor over comb technique.
Fade with a detachable blade clipper or an adjustable clipper with attachment combs. Use a slow fading motion and blend into the previous cut for a smoother blend.
Create a tapered outline to make the fade stand out. Use an adjustable clipper in the longest blade setting with a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out.
Repeat the previous step with lever adjusted halfway and then to the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper.
Use a trimmer to line off the sideburns and the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.
When the cut is complete style the hair. Blow dry the hair thoroughly with a vent brush by drying the hair forward, then to the side, and then up and back in the front. This will add volume and create the desired shape.
Apply the Zorian Of New York Shaping Paste to create a matte finish. Start by taking a full fingertip amount of product out of the jar and completely emulsifying into the palms of your hands. Our paste will not clump and spreads very easily like a cream but has a very strong hold that will keep the style all day. Apply to the hair by pushing forward on the top layer first, then to the side, and finally, apply from the front to the back down to the roots.
Use a wide tooth comb to get through the thick matte paste and comb into the desired style.
For more information on becoming a premium retailer of our Zorian of New York Products visit our product website and fill out the wholesale form. Someone will call you to consult you on an opening order and answer all of your questions.
The Comb over with hard part is the most popular haircut in the barbering world today. I have been in the industry as a service provider and educator for over two decades and it is always interesting and fun to keep up with the changes on the classic haircuts. This particular cut when I started was referred to as a regular boy’s haircut. Now with the modern/retro twist (this is actually a 1920’s style) the name has changed and so have some of the techniques. Such as when I started no one would ever think of taking a straight razor and shave in the part area. Also, pomades were just starting to get popular but most haircuts were styled with gel, hair spray, or a combination of the two.
In this video you will learn many different barbering techniques including: barber shear over comb, thinning shear over comb, fading, blending, and straight razor shaving. You will also learn the finer points on the hand dexterity necessary for these techniques. In other words: how to hold the comb, shears, clippers, and straight razor properly allowing for the correct posture as well as optimum finished results.
For this particular haircut we have combined three different styles into one: a side part, an ivy league, and a hard part. The side part is self-explanatory. A classic young man’s haircut. The Ivy League takes it a step further. We cut the crown off and blend it to the top making it much easier to style. Works especially well for young children with difficult cowlicks and just want to get up and go. Lastly, the hard part. We first cut in the part with the trimmer and follow up with the straight razor. In this case we used our Zorian Of New York Shave Gel to get a nice clean line. It is a thick transparent gel infused with aloe vera and shea butter to form a protective barrier between the skin and razor and allow for ultimate comfort without razor burn.
Finally, to complete the finish product comes the styling portion. Very few short haircuts look good without spending some time styling and using one or two products. To get the perfect finished looked we created the shape by blowing drying the hair into place with a small amount of our Zorian Of New York firm hold gel. This will give the straight hair some body and mold difficult hair into place. Lastly, we apply the Zorian Of New York water soluble classic pomade for a high shine which will make the hard part stand out even more and give the hair a strong hold that will last all day. It is very important that the hair is completely dry when the pomade is applied. If the hair is slightly damp it will dilute the product and will not firm up and give the hair a firm hold.
I had the pleasure of teaching 2 barbering demonstrations at The New York Barber and Beauty Academy in Elmira, New York. The first class I taught was to a group of eager to learn barber and cosmetology students. We started the 3 hour barbering demonstration with a presentation on professional development. This is one of my favorite subjects to teach because it contains the secret ingredients to building your chair, building your business, conducting yourself as a professional, and retaining all of your hard earned clients. For me, the best part of this presentation is that it has nothing to do with social media or showing off your work. It has all to do with above and beyond customer service and how to build long lasting relationships. In other words putting all of the focus on clients and potential clients instead of ourselves. The students had many great questions and were extremely attentive. Following the classroom work we moved out to the clinic floor and I demonstrated two haircuts. The first on was a side part hairstyle with a close fade and a hard part cut in with a straight razor. I demonstrated to the students how to take out the difficult blending step by fading from the top down and never creating a line of demarcation that needed to be blended out. To finish off the haircut I demonstrated styling techniques with a vent brush and a hair dryer to create the shape and then applied Zorian Of New York Classic Pomade for a strong hold and high shine. The last model we worked on was a low bald fade with a longer curly top. Again we faded from the top down without creating a line of demarcation to blend out. We finished off the style by using Zorian of New York Grooming Cream which is infused with coconut oil to enhance the curls for a medium hold and medium shine.
The next session was for an incredible group of local industry professionals. For this session I demonstrated three haircuts. A pompadour with a low bald fade, a classic business tapered haircut, and a flat top. These haircuts are the main staples of any large male clientele. We focused on many techniques including reverse fading to eliminate the need for blending the sides to the top, clipper over comb in place of cutting by numbers, barber shear over comb, cutting with the correct posture, and men’s hair styling techniques.
For me, teaching at the New York Barber and Beauty Academy was a great experience. I am very thankful for the opportunity to work with such great students, industry professionals, school ownership, and staff. I am looking forward to going back in the future to teach many more classes including my full day hands on barbering seminar.