Clipper Care is one of the most important yet overlooked procedures when it comes to barbering tools. It is extremely important to have the best clippers and to take proper care of them to ensure consistent haircuts as well as extending their life. I strongly recommend that you own and use three types of clippers on all of your men’s cuts: a detachable blade clipper, an adjustable clipper, and a trimmer. By having these three clippers you will also extend their life buy not using an under powered clipper for certain steps causing it to break down prematurely. Each clipper has it’s purpose and specific uses.
The correct clipper care steps are as follows:
1. After each use brush the hair off of your clippers or clipper blade before hanging it back up or putting the blade back in its case. I like for my customers to see this so they know that I will be using a clean blade on the next customer which means I used a clean blade on them. My favorite clipper brush is a soft bristled clipper brush made by Andis.
2. After brushing your clipper off use the high power Andis Dry Care which will blow off any excess hair stuck on the blades or in between them.
3. When starting a haircut spray your clipper blade with Andis Cool Care. Spray while the clipper is running on the front and back of the blade running the spray back and forth twice. Make sure your customer sees this but also be careful to spray in the opposite direction. The Cool Care spray is a coolant, disinfectant, lubricant, cleaner, and prevents rust all in one. When finished gently wipe off the blade with a soft towel.
4. After using the clipper spray you need to oil your clippers. Place one drop of oil on each part of the blade where you see the metal touching and put two drops across the cutting blade. Turn the clippers on so the oil is distributed evenly throuhout the blade. Avoid over oiling or getting the oil into the motor which will clog it up and slow down or do damage to the motor.
5. At the end of the day use blade care to give your clippers a thorough cleaning. This will get all of the hair out from in between your blades which can slow them down and if wet cause your clippers to rust. Empty just enough of the blade care into a bowl so you can immerse just the tips of the blade into the solution. Turn the clipper on for about 10 seconds and then let all of the excess hair drip out. This solution is a coolant, will prevent rust, deodorizer, decontaminate, lubricant, and cleaner.
Like anything else once you get in the habit of the above clipper care steps you they will become second nature and a part of your day. Your clippers will last longer and cut better resulting in better and consistent haircuts.
We will be at GF Distributors on January 26th giving a clipper cutting demonstration in Boston. If you are looking to learn the latest in clipper cutting techniques, clipper maintenance, and how to achieve today’s most popular hairstyles this class is for you. The hairstyles that will be featured are the pompadour, the side part with a hard part cut in, fades, and more. In addition to the clipper cutting techniques of fading and clipper over comb you will also learn backhand clipper cutting which is a technique that allows you to pick up hair and cut it over your fingers. There will also be scissor cutting and straight razor cutting techniques demonstrated as well such as barber shear over comb, razor sculpting, and razor over comb.
GF Distributors will be featuring the men’s product line O’Ba Men. All attendees of the class will receive free products with their ticket purchase to sample. This line will be an excellent addition to your salon or barbershop.
If you are interested in attending please contact Jackie at: (978) 667-9900
We also need models interested in the hairstyles below. If you would like to be a model for the class please let Jackie know when you purchase your ticket.
I recently had the opportunity to teach a clipper cutting class at Michael’s School of Hair Design. I was overwhelmed with the hospitality that was shown to me by the school from the personalized welcome sign to the collage of of my work hanging up in the classroom. The students were very attentive and eager to learn, the learning leaders were among the friendliest I have met in my travels around the country, and the ownership took time out of their busy day to come and talk with me after the class.
This Andis clipper cutting class featured a power point presentation designed by their Manager of Education and Style Aileen Nunez. The class focused on teaching how to choose the correct clipper for your needs. This was done through a complete explanation of the different types of clippers and motors. For example, there are three different types of motors to choose from that all have their own features and benefits: rotary motor, magnetic motor, and pivot motor with many different styles of clippers in each category to choose from. Next, we talked about the different types of clippers: detachable blade, adjustable blade, trimmers, corded clippers, and cordless clippers. Again, with many different designs to fit your personality. Next up and most importantly was how to maintain you clippers to insure a long useful life. This is done through the proper disinfection, lubrication, and cleaning before and after each use. A thorough description of all of the motor types, clipper types, and proper maintenance can be found in the Andis catalog.
The clipper cutting class finished up with some fun hair cuts. First we cut a pompadour with a side part cut in using a the Andis MVP detachable blade clipper and an ion battery powered cordless trimmer. The hair was styled with a styling paste, high powered Andis hairdryer, and a Denman vent brush. Next, was a high top fade cut with an Andis Envy clipper with the new pink camouflage design. We used a fading technique for the sides and back and a freehand clipper cutting technique for the top. The ion battery powered cordless trimmer was used for the detailed outlining.
When learning how to cut men’s hair, clipper over comb is one of the most basic and fundamental techniques necessary for consistently blended men’s haircuts. The clipper over comb technique is excellent for removing large amounts of thick hair. You will also be able to achieve a different finish on the hair depending on what size blade and/or clipper you use. It is also easier on your hands on days when you will be doing 15 or more haircuts. The length of hair and area of the head you are working on will determine which clipper and comb to use.
How To Cut Men’s Hair – Clipper Over Comb Guide:
A large clipper comb or flat top comb should be used for the top and the sides and back sections. It is excellent for controlling large amounts of thick hair. It moves through the hair with ease because the teeth are wide and these clipper combs are thicker and heavier than most others. This comb should be used in combination with a large detachable blade clipper. The most powerful of clippers is needed for removing large amounts of thick hair.
A smaller clipper comb can also be used for in the top area when blending in a short haircut where the crown is cut off such as a princeton or a flat top. This comb is excellent for blending because the teeth are closer together and it is thinner which allows for picking up the hair closer to the scalp. This comb can be used with the detachable blade clipper for blending fades to the top section and for fine hair worn in a short to medium length. It can also be used with the adjustable clipper in the semi-finish area.
A finishing comb shoud only be used for the semi-finish and finish areas of a man’s haircut. This comb is excellent for the finishing steps because the comb itself is flat without any grooves which allows for the clipper to move across very smoothly. It is also flexible unlike the larger combs which allows for it to bend easier around the ears. This comb can be used with the adjustable clipper for the semi-finish area.
A trimmer should never be used with the clipper over comb techniques. It is not powerful enough and will shorten the life of your clipper. Also, the blade has a very close cut which will result in clipper marks. The object of clipper cutting is to leave a soft blended finish on a man’s haircut.
Throughout my 20 year career as a barber and an educator the most common question I am asked is “how do you fade hair without leaving a line?” My answer is simple. If you don’t make a line in the first place you won’t have to worry about fading it out. I want you to repeat this statement to yourself every time you are about to begin a fade. “FADING HAIR IS SIMPLE. IF I DON’T MAKE A LINE I DON’T HAVE TO FADE IT OUT.”
Now I will explain how to make leanring how to fade hair much easier. Start the haircut on the top instead of the bottom. The first advantage of this technique is you are removing length so you can see your work better. When you start the fading technique with the clippers you won’t lose site of the cutting blade in the excess hair. The next advantage is the clipper will cut through the shorter amount of hair much easier. As the head rounds in at the top take an imaginary line parallel to the side of the head until you run out of hair. This one technique will save you an enormous amount of time and improve your fades drastically.
This technique works best with the Oster 76, Andis BGRC, or Andis MVP. These are all detachable blade clippers with metal blades. The power of the clipper plus not having any of the teeth covered with a plastic attachment allows the blade to move through the hair with ease. It also works very well with a powerful adjustable clipper such as the Andis Master or Envy, Oster Fast Feed or Topaz, and Wahl Senior and Designer. Make sure the attachments used with this clipper fit extremely tight so you don’t run the risk of it falling while you are fading the hair.
If you follow these steps, not only will you be giving better fades, you will be able to work slower and more relaxed while finishing your fade haircuts faster.