Learn How To Blend and Style a Low Fade

In the following free barber video tutorial you will learn how to blend and style a low fade.  This traditional version has a longer top with a close low fade. The fade is dropped lower in the back to balance out the longer top to allow more length for the problem cowlick or crown area that stands up easily if cut too short. 

Instructional Step Guide:

  1. Cut the top first. Over direct the front back to the middle of the ear in order to leave it longer. 
  2. Remove the bulk in the parietal area and just above the occipital area in the back. You can use either the clipper over comb or scissor over comb technique. 
  3. Fade with a detachable blade clipper or an adjustable clipper with attachment combs. Use a slow fading motion and blend into the previous cut for a smoother blend.
  4. Create a tapered outline to make the fade stand out. Use an adjustable clipper in the longest blade setting with a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out.
  5. Repeat the previous step with lever adjusted halfway and then to the shortest setting scooping  the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper.
  6. Use a trimmer to line off the sideburns and the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.
  7. When the cut is complete style the hair. Blow dry the hair thoroughly with a vent brush by drying the hair forward, then to the side, and then up and back in the front. This will add volume and create the desired shape.
  8. Apply the Zorian Of New York Shaping Paste to create a matte finish. Start by taking a full fingertip amount of product out of the jar and completely emulsifying into the palms of your hands. Our paste will not clump and spreads very easily like a cream but has a very strong hold that will keep the style all day. Apply to the hair by pushing forward on the top layer first, then to the side, and finally, apply from the front to the back down to the roots.
  9. Use a wide tooth comb to get through the thick matte paste and comb into the desired style.

For more information on becoming a premium retailer of our Zorian of New York Products visit our product website and fill out the wholesale form. Someone will call you to consult you on an opening order and answer all of your questions.

The Classic Men’s Business Cut

The classic men’s business cut will never go out of style. It is a side part hairstyle with enough hair to comb to the side on top and to comb back on the sides. Learn how to cut this hairstyle by combining many different barbering techniques including, scissor over comb, clipper over comb, straight razor over comb, and straight razor sculpting.

Step by step instructions:

1. Start on the top and create square layers using the barber shear over fingers technique.

2. Next, cut the sides and back with the barber shear over finger technique.

3. As you move to the lower portion of the sides and back use the barber shear over comb technique.

4. Cut the semi-finish area by using the clipper over comb technique to taper the hairline.

5. Finish up the outline using an outliner with a t-blade to create a clean line on the side burn area and the back of the neck behind the ears. Use an upward shaving motion to clean up the neck.

6. Add texture to the hair by first using a thinning shear over comb technique followed by the straight razor sculpting technique. This will help the haircut to hold it’s shape while growing out.

7. Style the hair with Zorian of New York grooming cream. Apply through the hair and use a vent brush to style. This will create a soft manageable hold that will last all day.

Barber Classes at IBS Las Vegas

IBS Las Vegas

I recently had the honor to teach two barber classes at IBS Las Vegas. It was a pleasure to be associated with such a professional trade show and line up of incredible educators.

My first class was titled: “Eliminate Blending with Reverse Fading”. In this class I taught the importance of starting from the top and working down. In other words if you cut the top first and then begin with your longer blades you avoid leaving a weight line that has to be blended out. Blending is what takes the most time and causes hairstylists and barbers the most stress when it comes to delivering a first class haircut. I had a great model for this class with thick hair that I was also able to demonstrate other barbering techniques such as scissor over fingers, scissor over comb, clipper over comb, over direction to create more length in the front, disconnection, as well as razor sculpting. We finished up with styling techniques featuring our Zorian of New York premium line of men’s hairstyling and shaving products to complete the look.

My second class was titled: “Fades and Flat Tops”. This is one of my favorite classes to teach because of the difficulty of the flat top and its many variations. This is also the haircut that took me personally the longest to learn which makes it so gratifying to teach. In this class we covered the same fading techniques as the previous class. The big difference is with the modern flat top style that I cut I sectioned off the top and cut the sides first. What this accomplished was disconnecting the top from the back of the ear to the front creating a pompadour effect. This style of flat top can also be referred to as a rockabilly flat top. After fading the sides I cut down the top with the scissor over comb technique. Then I applied our Zorian of New York firm hold gel to the damp hair and blow dried the top straight up. Gel is best to get the hair to stand up because once dried it won’t hardened up or is not sticky. Either of these will make it difficult to judge the hair and for the clipper to smoothly glide through. At the end of the hair cut we used our Zorian of New York shaping paste to give the hair a matte finish with a strong hold. All of the hair was brushed up and to the center to complete the modern flat top style.

Once again, if you have never attended the IBS Las Vegas hair show I highly recommend it. There were many classes to choose from including cosmetology, barbering, business, and personal development all taught by reputable and talented educators. I am looking forward to being a part of the show again next year.

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured Top

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured TopThis short clipper cut hairstyle with textured top for women very popular. Miley Cyrus shocked everyone when she cut her hair off a few years ago but when done correctly these haircuts look incredibly stylish. When cutting these women’s hairstyles an understanding of how to leave a natural feminine outline is especially important. Barbers are increasingly cutting more of these haircuts because of their versatile skills with short hair.  A few different barbering techniques are extremely important to deliver on this hairstyle. They include: barber shear over comb, straight razor over comb, thinning shear over comb, clipper over comb, and clipper blending.

To begin the haircut start on the top. Pick up a center section starting in the front and over direct to the middle of the ear leaving the hair longer in the front. Work all the way back to the crown making sure to leave the hair longer in the crown. Repeat this step on each side of the center guide making sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor. This will ensure keeping a square shape so there is weight in the corners.

Texturize the top using a 23 tooth thinning shear so not to take to much hair out. Use the same technique as the barber shear. Start ⅓ of the way down on the shaft of the hair. Close the scissor 3 times while lifting the shear upward. This will create movement.

Horseshoe of the top preparing the sides and back for clipper over comb. Create graduation using the parietal length as a guide. Use the clipper over comb technique with a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR and a 1 ½ blade. This particular blade is very forgiving and will avoid leaving clipper marks due to the length of the teeth and the width of the blade. This works especially well with light colored hair and/or fine hair.

Using slow strokes clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head.While you have the 1 ½ blade on the detachable blade clipper start the outline of the haircut using a scooping motion to begin creating the tapered finish. This will leave a soft feminine outline for the particular style instead of a tight taper or lining off the outline with a finishing clipper.

If the hairline is thick you can use an adjustable clipper in the open position and halfway closed position as long as you drop the clipper down low enough on the neck leaving the hairline soft. Just make sure to get any fuzz off the neck by the collar if there is hair growing there.

Texturize the parietal area and top further with the straight razor over comb technique. This is just like the scissor over comb technique except you are using a straight razor. Use the same steps as on the top. Take a center section with the comb halfway down the shaft of the hair and move the straight razor quickly so it does not pull. Also, by moving the razor quickly and the comb quickly you control how much weight you take out of the hair. When using the straight razor over comb technique in the parietal area make sure to keep the comb parallel to the sides and back. This will leave the necessary weight at the round of the head for the style.

To style this haircut make sure the hair is completely dry before applying product. The hair will stand up and get more of a messy look if you use a hair dryer blow the hair forward first and the back. Getting the heat down to the roots will lift the hair and bring out the texture. Using a blow dryer dry the hair forward, to the side, and then from front to back.

This client likes a matte or dry finish which is perfect for a short female clipper cut hairstyle. The product to achieve this is the Zorian of New York Shaping Paste. It spreads like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York Shaping Paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized which you will notice when you rinse off your hands. Your skin will feel softer as well. The matte paste is water soluble and will rinse out with ease without any leftover residue.

Take a full fingertip portion out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward first and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Style to your desired messy look with or without a slight part.

 

Modern Men’s Brushed Back Hairstyle with Undercut Sides

Modern Men’s Brushed Back Hairstyle with Undercut Sides

The modern men’s brushed back hairstyle with undercut sides is a new version of the undercut. The sides and are undercut to the back of the ear and the back of the haircut is tapered or faded and blended to the top. In this version the hair is slightly longer than a tight skin or bald fade. This cut can also be done with one side undercut and the other side disconnected which means it is faded up to the part and not blended to the top adding another dimension to the haircut. As with a lot of today’s men’s hairstyles they can be a combination of 2-3 different hairstyles in one.

Over direct the top back to the back of the ear in order to leave it longer. Use the barber shear over fingers techniques to make your first cut to serve as a guide. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor to make sure you have a square shape.

When you get to the front of the ear the traveling guide becomes a stationary guide. Over direct the hair from the front to the stationary guide and make the final cut.

As you repeat this step on the left and right of the center guide this will leave weight in the corners so the hair combs back or brushes back with ease. Especially in this case where the hair is extremely straight. If you round your fingers when you cut the top the hair will stick out and the style will be out of balance.

Before moving on to the fade use the barber scissor over fingers technique in the back just below the crown. Take vertical sections in between the back of the ears removing bulk. Use the crown as your guide making sure not to cut the hair to short so that it will stick up.

Next, move on to fading the sides and back using a detachable clipper similar to the Oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR or equivalent. You can fade with a 3 ¾ metal blade or use the clipper over comb technique with the 1 ½ blade and a large clipper comb.

Section the top out of the way from the front to the back of the ear clipper cut up to the parietal or temple area to the back or the ear. Fade the hair to the same length all the way up to the hair that is sectioned off being careful not to cut any of the top.

Repeat this step on the opposite side. In the back use the clipper over comb technique and fade to your guide.

Move on to the semi-finish. Use an adjustable clipper such as the Andis Envy, Andis Master, Wahl Designer, Wahl Senior, Oster fast feed, or equivalent in the longest blade setting and use a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out.  Repeat this step with lever adjusted halfway and then the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper. Make sure to blend each side into the beard evenly.

Last, use a t-outliner or trimmer to finish the haircut. Line off the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.

Complete the look by styling the hair. Start out by applying a small amount of alcohol free Zorian of New York firm hold gel infused with aloe vera to the hair and thoroughly dry. This will give the straight hair more body and form the style when dry. Use a vent brush and dry the hair back and to the center.

Next, apply the Zorian of New York classic pomade infused with jojaba seed extract and ginseng. Take a full fingertip portion of the product out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Use your fingertips to get the product down to the roots with a lifting motion. Push the sides down so they do not stick out. Follow with a vent brush for a loose textured look or a fine tooth comb for a tight slicked back look.