In this barber video tutorial learn how to cut and style short men’s clipper cut. Begin by cutting the top with the barber shear over comb technique. For thick hair follow up with the thinning shear over comb technique. Next, fade the sides with a 3 ½ metal blade down to a 1 ½ blade. Keep the fade below the temples. Touch up the blend with the clipper over comb technique using a 1 ½ blade for a more blended cut. Fade out the neckline with an adjustable clipper starting in the longest setting down to the shortest and finish off with an outliner.
Style the hair forward with a slight flip up in the front. Start by applying a drop Zorian Of New York firm hold gel. Our gel is a specialty blend gel is alcohol free and contains aloe vera to keep your skin and hair moisturized while avoiding flaking. Using a hair dryer dry the hair forward and then up in front. This will mold the hair into place.
Next, use the Zorian of New York Shaping paste which is very easy to work with. It emulsifies like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York shaping paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized. Emulsify a full fingertip portion in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Finally, push the hair back down forward and push up in the front with a little bit of a messy texture look.
This short clipper cut hairstyle with textured top for women very popular. Miley Cyrus shocked everyone when she cut her hair off a few years ago but when done correctly these haircuts look incredibly stylish. When cutting these women’s hairstyles an understanding of how to leave a natural feminine outline is especially important. Barbers are increasingly cutting more of these haircuts because of their versatile skills with short hair. A few different barbering techniques are extremely important to deliver on this hairstyle. They include: barber shear over comb, straight razor over comb, thinning shear over comb, clipper over comb, and clipper blending.
To begin the haircut start on the top. Pick up a center section starting in the front and over direct to the middle of the ear leaving the hair longer in the front. Work all the way back to the crown making sure to leave the hair longer in the crown. Repeat this step on each side of the center guide making sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor. This will ensure keeping a square shape so there is weight in the corners.
Texturize the top using a 23 tooth thinning shear so not to take to much hair out. Use the same technique as the barber shear. Start ⅓ of the way down on the shaft of the hair. Close the scissor 3 times while lifting the shear upward. This will create movement.
Horseshoe of the top preparing the sides and back for clipper over comb. Create graduation using the parietal length as a guide. Use the clipper over comb technique with a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR and a 1 ½ blade. This particular blade is very forgiving and will avoid leaving clipper marks due to the length of the teeth and the width of the blade. This works especially well with light colored hair and/or fine hair.
Using slow strokes clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head.While you have the 1 ½ blade on the detachable blade clipper start the outline of the haircut using a scooping motion to begin creating the tapered finish. This will leave a soft feminine outline for the particular style instead of a tight taper or lining off the outline with a finishing clipper.
If the hairline is thick you can use an adjustable clipper in the open position and halfway closed position as long as you drop the clipper down low enough on the neck leaving the hairline soft. Just make sure to get any fuzz off the neck by the collar if there is hair growing there.
Texturize the parietal area and top further with the straight razor over comb technique. This is just like the scissor over comb technique except you are using a straight razor. Use the same steps as on the top. Take a center section with the comb halfway down the shaft of the hair and move the straight razor quickly so it does not pull. Also, by moving the razor quickly and the comb quickly you control how much weight you take out of the hair. When using the straight razor over comb technique in the parietal area make sure to keep the comb parallel to the sides and back. This will leave the necessary weight at the round of the head for the style.
To style this haircut make sure the hair is completely dry before applying product. The hair will stand up and get more of a messy look if you use a hair dryer blow the hair forward first and the back. Getting the heat down to the roots will lift the hair and bring out the texture. Using a blow dryer dry the hair forward, to the side, and then from front to back.
This client likes a matte or dry finish which is perfect for a short female clipper cut hairstyle. The product to achieve this is the Zorian of New York Shaping Paste. It spreads like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York Shaping Paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized which you will notice when you rinse off your hands. Your skin will feel softer as well. The matte paste is water soluble and will rinse out with ease without any leftover residue.
Take a full fingertip portion out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward first and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Style to your desired messy look with or without a slight part.
The modern men’s brushed back hairstyle with undercut sides is a new version of the undercut. The sides and are undercut to the back of the ear and the back of the haircut is tapered or faded and blended to the top. In this version the hair is slightly longer than a tight skin or bald fade. This cut can also be done with one side undercut and the other side disconnected which means it is faded up to the part and not blended to the top adding another dimension to the haircut. As with a lot of today’s men’s hairstyles they can be a combination of 2-3 different hairstyles in one.
Over direct the top back to the back of the ear in order to leave it longer. Use the barber shear over fingers techniques to make your first cut to serve as a guide. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor to make sure you have a square shape.
When you get to the front of the ear the traveling guide becomes a stationary guide. Over direct the hair from the front to the stationary guide and make the final cut.
As you repeat this step on the left and right of the center guide this will leave weight in the corners so the hair combs back or brushes back with ease. Especially in this case where the hair is extremely straight. If you round your fingers when you cut the top the hair will stick out and the style will be out of balance.
Before moving on to the fade use the barber scissor over fingers technique in the back just below the crown. Take vertical sections in between the back of the ears removing bulk. Use the crown as your guide making sure not to cut the hair to short so that it will stick up.
Next, move on to fading the sides and back using a detachable clipper similar to the Oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR or equivalent. You can fade with a 3 ¾ metal blade or use the clipper over comb technique with the 1 ½ blade and a large clipper comb.
Section the top out of the way from the front to the back of the ear clipper cut up to the parietal or temple area to the back or the ear. Fade the hair to the same length all the way up to the hair that is sectioned off being careful not to cut any of the top.
Repeat this step on the opposite side. In the back use the clipper over comb technique and fade to your guide.
Move on to the semi-finish. Use an adjustable clipper such as the Andis Envy, Andis Master, Wahl Designer, Wahl Senior, Oster fast feed, or equivalent in the longest blade setting and use a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out. Repeat this step with lever adjusted halfway and then the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper. Make sure to blend each side into the beard evenly.
Last, use a t-outliner or trimmer to finish the haircut. Line off the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.
Complete the look by styling the hair. Start out by applying a small amount of alcohol free Zorian of New York firm hold gel infused with aloe vera to the hair and thoroughly dry. This will give the straight hair more body and form the style when dry. Use a vent brush and dry the hair back and to the center.
Next, apply the Zorian of New York classic pomade infused with jojaba seed extract and ginseng. Take a full fingertip portion of the product out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Use your fingertips to get the product down to the roots with a lifting motion. Push the sides down so they do not stick out. Follow with a vent brush for a loose textured look or a fine tooth comb for a tight slicked back look.
For this tool tip blog I would like to talk about my new favorite clipper: The Andis Supra ZR Detachable Blade Clipper. It is a cordless rotary motor clipper that uses detachable blades. This particular clipper has made my life so much easier behind the chair. I have all the power I will ever need without the cord. I have used a lot of different clippers in my 25 year career and can honestly say this is my favorite clipper hands down. That is not to say you do not need a high quality adjustable clipper and trimmer also. As I have stated in previous blogs all clippers have their uses and I have always recommended cutting with all three to extend the life of your clippers and to make sure you are using the correct clipper for each part of the haircut.
The specs of the Andis Supra ZR Detachable Blade Clipper are as follows:
Heavy-duty, detachable blade clipper in cordless design delivers a 2-hour run time on a 2-hour charge.
Lithium-ion power mated with powerful rotary motor to cut any hair type – wet or dry. This type of battery holds a charge much longer so you do not have to worry about running out of power.
5 speeds: Adjustable from 1,800 to 3,800 strokes per minute. This is slower than popular adjustable blade clippers but works excellent for clipper over comb as well as fading when you need that extra torque and power.
Works with all Andis UltraEdge and Andis CeramicEdge blades. I recommend using the ceramic edge blade because they run cooler and hold their edge longer.
I have been personally using this clipper at my barbershop on ever since it has come on the market and can’t envision a scenario where I will switch back to a corded detachable blade clipper.
I recently had the opportunity to work as a platform educator for the Andis Company at this year’s Bronner Bros. International Beautry Show. It was a great experience as I have never worked this show before. I would like to share a portion of the Bronner Bros. mission statement to give you an idea of the company’s commitment to excellence and their contribution to the barber and beauty industry:
“Our mission is to be the largest African American, Christian Company in the world. Our focus is to pursue excellence by manufacturing and distributing excellent hair and skin care products for African Americans. In this pursuit, not only will we manufacture excellent products, but we will also be recognized as having the most glamorous styling operation and as having the worlds’ largest and the most exciting beauty show during the mid-summer and winter months. In fact, excellence will permeate everything that we do.
I also had the opportunity to work with and learn from some of the best barbers in the industry on the Andis stage including Kenny Duncan, Tone McGill, and Eric Cheeks. As well as working with these barbers the Andis company introduced 3 incredible new clippers: The Supra ZR, The Limited Edition Black Label Master, and the Slim Line LI. I will give a full detailed description of each of these clippers in future blogs and why I feel they are the best on the market and make my job easier every day in the barbershop.
As far as haircutting education goes this is one of my favorite shows because of the diversity. In a two hour time period on stage I went from cutting an Afro with a low taper to a bald fade to and undercut with two parts cut in. It doesn’t get any more fun than that. The crowd was extremely engaging and supportive and I am looking forward to my next opportunity to work at the show again.