Greg Zorian will be teaching a pompadour class at the New York State Barber Expo. This is the 2nd Annual New York State Barber Expo which will host some of the country’s top barbers, lead educators, and most prominent companies in the barber industry, on Sunday, September 17 at the Empire State Plaza Convention Center in Albany, New York. Along with the class the How To Cut Hair barber education company and the Zorian of New York men’s premium grooming product company will be exhibiting their products at booth number 210 and will be featuring many show specials. The products on display will include Barber DVDs which demonstrate a variety of men’s haircuts and barbering techniques, premium pomades which include high shine and matte finishes, shaving products, and specialty shampoos and styling gels all with unique fragrances and packaging.
In the Pompadour class you will learn the many barbering techniques necessary to create a perfectly balanced pompadour. Using a mix of scissor over comb, clipper over comb, straight razor sculpting, fading, and blending techniques Greg will walk you through the step by step process to completing this popular haircut. You will also learn the styling techniques and products necessary to make your pompadour stand out in a crowd. Before and after the class stop by booth number 210 for live cutting demonstrations, product specials, and to meet Greg and some of his team members.
The Ivy League haircut is a 1950 classic hairstyle. The true definition of this style is the hair combed forward and to the side without a part. The front is combed slightly up and to the side. A natural hairline or low taper accentuates the shape of the haircut. A firm gel or heavy cream works best to keep the hair styled neatly all day. In this blog we are going to cover how to cut the top sections of the Ivy League Hairstyle.
How To Cut The Top Section Of The Ivy League Hairstyle:
Start in the center section and over direct the front back slightly to keep the front longer. Make sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor.
Use a traveling guide and take tiny sections as you work your way toward the crown.
As you get closer to the crown your traveling guide should become a stationary guide. Pull the hair forward so you do not cut too close to the crown. The hair needs to be longer in that area to be styled properly and not stand up.
Repeat steps 1-3 on the right and left hand sides of your center guide that you created.
Repeat steps 1-4 with the thinning shear over comb technique. The hair will be shorter so it is easier to pick up with the comb. When thinning it out use your judgement. The thicker the hair the slower the comb moves so you will remove more bulk. The finer the faster the comb moves to take out less bulk. If the hair is not very thick you can skip this step.
Determine the product to use based on the finish the client would like. Use a firm gel or pomade if the client would like the wet look. Use a dry paste or heavy styling cream if your client would like a dry looking or mat finish.
Comb the hair forward, then to the side, and finally style the hair up slightly in the front.
Keep an eye out for our next blog in this series detailing how to complete the tapered sides and back of the “Ivy League Hairstyle”.
Clipper Care is one of the most important yet overlooked procedures when it comes to barbering tools. It is extremely important to have the best clippers and to take proper care of them to ensure consistent haircuts as well as extending their life. I strongly recommend that you own and use three types of clippers on all of your men’s cuts: a detachable blade clipper, an adjustable clipper, and a trimmer. By having these three clippers you will also extend their life buy not using an under powered clipper for certain steps causing it to break down prematurely. Each clipper has it’s purpose and specific uses.
The correct clipper care steps are as follows:
1. After each use brush the hair off of your clippers or clipper blade before hanging it back up or putting the blade back in its case. I like for my customers to see this so they know that I will be using a clean blade on the next customer which means I used a clean blade on them. My favorite clipper brush is a soft bristled clipper brush made by Andis.
2. After brushing your clipper off use the high power Andis Dry Care which will blow off any excess hair stuck on the blades or in between them.
3. When starting a haircut spray your clipper blade with Andis Cool Care. Spray while the clipper is running on the front and back of the blade running the spray back and forth twice. Make sure your customer sees this but also be careful to spray in the opposite direction. The Cool Care spray is a coolant, disinfectant, lubricant, cleaner, and prevents rust all in one. When finished gently wipe off the blade with a soft towel.
4. After using the clipper spray you need to oil your clippers. Place one drop of oil on each part of the blade where you see the metal touching and put two drops across the cutting blade. Turn the clippers on so the oil is distributed evenly throuhout the blade. Avoid over oiling or getting the oil into the motor which will clog it up and slow down or do damage to the motor.
5. At the end of the day use blade care to give your clippers a thorough cleaning. This will get all of the hair out from in between your blades which can slow them down and if wet cause your clippers to rust. Empty just enough of the blade care into a bowl so you can immerse just the tips of the blade into the solution. Turn the clipper on for about 10 seconds and then let all of the excess hair drip out. This solution is a coolant, will prevent rust, deodorizer, decontaminate, lubricant, and cleaner.
Like anything else once you get in the habit of the above clipper care steps you they will become second nature and a part of your day. Your clippers will last longer and cut better resulting in better and consistent haircuts.
I recently had the opportunity to present an Andis clipper cutting class in Farmington Hills, Michigan. at the Industry Source. A wide variety of topics were covered and I also had the opportunity to demonstrate some fun haircuts with the best clippers of course. The class started out with a presentation on how to choose the correct clipper for each individual. This was done through educating the class on the three different types of clippers which include detachable blade, adjustable blade, and trimmers. Also, the features and benefits of the three types of motors were discussed in great detail: rotary motor, magnetic motor, and pivot motor. After giving the class a detailed explanation of the above we spent a considerable amount of time on clipper maintenance. This is probably on of the most least talked about but important topics in barbering. Every clipper should be cleaned, disinfected, and oiled before each use. No if, and’s, or but’s about it. This will ensure a longer life for your clippers and optimum cutting efficiency. One of the most fun parts of these classes is to pull some of the attendees on stage to demonstrate and give away free stuff from Andis for their participation.
Next, it was on to the haircuts. I was able to demonstrate some live haircuts as well as on mannequins. I started out with a side part haircut and demonstrated the back hand clipper cutting or shear style cutting technique on the top section. On the sides and back I demonstrated how to achieve the same look with clipper over comb or plastic attachments along with a detailed explanation of the benefits of each. Finally, we finished off the haircut with a hard part which means shaving a part into the head with a powerful trimmer to make it stand out.
Next up I demonstrated a textured haircut on a mannequin. In this haircut I again used the back hand or shear style cutting technique with the clippers to remove length and layer the hair. To add texture I used the texturizing blade on the detachable blade clipper. This blade (T-24) takes the place of using a blending shear or straight razor. The attendees who come up on stage to try it out absolutely loved this technique and the finish it leaves on the hair.
On our last model I demonstrated a side part undercut with a bald fade and cut the part in. Many techniques were used on this haircut but the one I like to demonstrate the most is the reverse fading technique. In other words, fading from the top down without putting a line in first. The class loved this technique. Especially the idea of almost completely eliminating the blending step to save time while increasing efficiency.
Overall it was a great class and I appreciate the opportunity to have been able to present this class for Andis and the Industry Source. I am looking forward to my next trip back.
The International Beauty Show New York 2015 will be one of the largest shows of its kind this year. 63,000 people from all over the world will be in attendance over 3 days which begins on Sunday March 8th. There will be all types of education available with over 150 free classes taught by some of the best educators in the world. Make sure to put some of the show stopping main stage performances on your list of things to see as well. If you are in need of tools and products there will be over 500 exhibitors with great show deals. If you are a student still in school and are intimidated by such a large venue there is a student day devoted just to you on Tuesday, March 10th so make sure to come for the day to get a feel for what the hair industry is all about.
I will be there as a platform artist for the Andis Company with 3 other incredible educators: Danny Amorim Sr., Kenny Duncan, and Jessica Zeinstra. We will be demonstrating how to achieve all types of hairstyles with the best and most efficient clipper cutting techniques for all 3 days. Make sure to stop by booth #1801 to say hello, ask questions about how to improve your skills, possibly get a haircut, and to check out the latest in clipper technology.
Also, Xcluciv Barber Supply will be carrying my full library of High Definition Barbering DVDs in package deals or on sale individually at booth #2231. Make sure to stop by and pick up your copies to take home with you at incredible show prices.
Most of all, have a great time, take in all of the education you can to advance you career, and enjoy New York City.