Learn how to cut a flat top hairstyle in the following video and step by step guide. Also, learn how to finish off the cut with the correct styling products to keep the cut looking consistent all day.
Start on the right hand side. Use the 3 ½ (3/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Using the fading technique run the clipper up the side of the head to the temple area. Take an imaginary line parallel to the head straight up from the round of the head until you run out of hair. This will avoid leaving a line that needs to be blended out. Make sure not to follow the contour of the head at the parietal area.
Work the clipper around the head until you get to the back. Run the clipper up to the crown and round it off slightly. Even though this haircut is square in shape the back needs to be rounded off slightly for proper balance.
After the back continue on around the opposite side as in step 3.
Next, blend the sides and back to the top. Even though the top has not been cut yet the corners need the square look from a front and back view. It will be much easier to cut the top flat when there is less hair to work with. Use the clipper over comb technique and either a 1 or 1 ½ blade depending on the thickness of the hair. U Hold the comb parallel to the head and take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair to cut.
Move on to the semi-finish. Use adjustable clipper starting in the longest setting working down to the shortest setting.
Finish the taper with the adjustable clipper working down from the longest to shortest setting.
Complete the finish with the t-trimmer using it correctly as demonstrated in tools of the trade lessons.
After these steps are completed move on to the top. Blow dry the top with a small amount of alcohol free Zorian of New York firm hold styling gel to get an even shape to work with.
Using the large flat top comb and a clipper over comb technique with the 1 blade. Begin in the front and work towards the back. Keep the comb parallel with the floor and comb through the first section in the center. Very small sections will be needed to avoid clipper marks or lines. Move the comb very slowly toward the back angling the comb slightly downward to meet the guide from the sides and back zone.
Move to either the right or left side of the center section and repeat the process. Make sure the center guide and previous guide are visible. This will help to keep the correct speed and sectioning with the comb. Take as many sections as necessary to meet the guide on the sides.
Repeat the above step on opposite side.
When rough cut is complete re-dry the hair with more product for the fine-tuning. Check from every angle in both the wall and hand mirrors.
Touch up any areas that need it.
Lastly, use a fingertip portion of the Zorian Of New York shaping paste for a strong hold and matte finish to hold this difficult growth pattern in place all day. (Optional: Spray with Zorian Of New York finish spray for a non sticky, quick dry finish for added hold)
For more information on customized classes at your barbershop, salon, school, or private training e-mail Greg@HowToCutHair.tv. For more information on becoming a premium retailer of Zorian Of New York men’s products contact Greg@ZorianOfNewYork.com or fill out our wholesale form.
A successful career in barbering or any profession for that matter is dependent on many factors. Many books have been written on this subject. When it comes to barbering or men’s haircutting I feel that there are 10 things you must know to have a successful career. In this 10 part blog series I will go into each one in detail.
Barber Success Tips – Part 4
Barbering Tools of the Trade
The tools you will need to be successful in men’s haircutting fall into 4 categories: scissors, clippers, combs, and razors.
1. Clippers: You will need an adjustable clipper with attachments and a trimmer. Also, as you progress through your career and get more comfortable with you clipper cutting adding a more powerful detachable blade clipper such as the Andis MVP or Oster 76 is a must.
2. Scissors: You will need a 6″– 7” barbering scissor for cutting length and a blending scissor. I personally like to have a 6″ scissor for picking up hair and cutting over my fingers and a longer 7″-8″ scissor for the scissor over comb haircutting technique.
3. Combs: You will need a flat top comb and smaller clipper comb with a handle for your clipper cutting. You will also need a large comb for layering hair or scissor over comb work as well as a finishing comb.
4. Razors: You will need a razor for cutting and texturizing hair. It can have a guard on it if you are more comfortable with it. Depending on if you are licensed to shave or not you will also need a straight razor with disposable blades.
Mastering your barber tools will go a long way towards a succeful and rewarding career in barbering.
Many times when beginning a career in barbering or men’s haircutting the barber or cosmetologist will struggle with haircutting techniques for short hair. In particular when the hair is too short to pick up with your fingers and the desired length is longer than using the largest clipper attachment will allow for.
There are two haircutting techniques that are used in this situation. The first one is called scissor over comb. This haircutting technique is when the comb slowly moves through the hair picking it up and the scissor held in the opposite hand opens and closes quickly cutting the hair. This is the oldest technique in barbering. (Yes, there was a time when the electric clipper did not exist.) With time and practice this technique will become second nature and you can start using it on longer hair as well instead of picking it up. You will find this haircutting technique to be much more efficient and accurate than picking up the hair in many small sections.
The second haircutting technique is clipper over comb. This works the same as scissor over comb except you are using a clipper. I recommend using an adjustable clipper or detachable blade clipper but never a trimmer. The trimmer is not powerful enough and the blade is too fine causing clipper lines in the haircut. Another benefit too this technique is you can begin the taper around the outline of the haircut after you finish each section. This will drastically increase the efficiency of your haircutting without increasing your hand speed. It is extremely important that the customer never feels like you are rushing them out of your chair.
Success in men’s haircutting depends on being able to deliver a blended haircut in a reasonable amount of time. This will allow you to give enough haircuts in a day to make a good living. The trick is not to ever let the customer feel rushed. Cutting hair efficiently with these techniques instead of cutting faster will allow you to accomplish this.
For anyone who has young children you know what a big deal it is to go on a dinner and movie date with your spouse. This past weekend my wife and I went to see the new James Bond movie Skyfall strarring Daniel Craig. As usual I can never turn off my mind from thinking about barbering and haircuts. As soon as the movie started I noticed the new James Bond Haircut. It is a classic Princeton haircut which is a throwback to the 1950’s. I have my mother’s highschool yearbook from that time period and all of the guys have this haircut or a flattop. Check out the tips below for giving this exact haircut.
James Bond Haircut Guide:
1. Taper up the sides and back with the 1/2″ attachment on your clipper. Clipper just past the round of the head.
2. Taper up the sides and back with the 3/8″ attachment. Taper away from the head just below the round of the head.
3. Taper a 1 finger width area around the perimeter of the haircut with the 1/8″ attachment.
4.Repeat step 3 with the adjustable clipper with the blade in the open position. Use a scooping motion to leave a natural hairline
5. Line of the sideburns and clean around the ear and the back of the neck with a trimmer.
6. Blend the tapered sides into the top of the haircut. Use the clipper over comb technique with your comb slightly angled away from the front fo the head to leave the bangs longer. This is a contoured shape haircut so follow the shape of the head while cutting the top.
7. Finish with a light, dry paste or wax. This will give the hair a light hold while leaving a natural finish.
My wife is a huge dancing with the stars fan. As I was watching the show with her the other night she was judging the dancing and I was judging the haircuts. I saw one of the professional dancers with a great haircut that I had to write about. This is a low fade or tapered haircut that I have been teaching for years and would like to share a quick lesson plan for.
Step by Step Guide For The Low Taper/Fade:
Start on the top area and using the scissor over comb or scissor over fingers technique. Pull the bangs up at a 90 degree angle and work your way back to the crown. Move the comb slowly so you can always see your previous guide in the comb.
Take 1-2 sections to the right and left of the center guide. Keep using the scissor over comb technique and be sure to keep the comb parallel to floor to insure a square shape (leaving weight in the corners).
Cut the round of the head section. For this step you can either start in the back or either side depending on if you are right or left handed. Use a scissor and comb technique holding the comb parallel to the sides and back area of the head and blend to the top area guide.
For the sides and back section use the 3 ½ (3/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper and the blade on skin technique. You will start to bevel the blade out slightly just below the temple area.
Repeat step 4 with the 2 (1/4”) blade and then the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade. Make sure each time you drop down a blade size you start beveling the clipper about 1/2 inch below your previous guide (where you left off with your previous blade).
Use the clipper over comb technique with the detachable blade clipper and the 1 ½ blade to finish the blend into the round of the head section.
Cut the semi-finish area. Use the adjustable clipper with a 1/16” attachment. Set the lever to an open position to allow for a longer length. Next close the clipper blade for the next shortest length and repeat.
Use the adjustable clipper without an attachment and repeat the previous step with the clipper blade open and cut with a scooping motion. Repeat this motion with the clipper halfway open and then closed.
Move on to the finish with the trimmer using the blade on skin technique. Stretch the skin around the finish area using a scooping motion to complete the fade.