Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured Top

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured TopThis short clipper cut hairstyle with textured top for women very popular. Miley Cyrus shocked everyone when she cut her hair off a few years ago but when done correctly these haircuts look incredibly stylish. When cutting these women’s hairstyles an understanding of how to leave a natural feminine outline is especially important. Barbers are increasingly cutting more of these haircuts because of their versatile skills with short hair.  A few different barbering techniques are extremely important to deliver on this hairstyle. They include: barber shear over comb, straight razor over comb, thinning shear over comb, clipper over comb, and clipper blending.

To begin the haircut start on the top. Pick up a center section starting in the front and over direct to the middle of the ear leaving the hair longer in the front. Work all the way back to the crown making sure to leave the hair longer in the crown. Repeat this step on each side of the center guide making sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor. This will ensure keeping a square shape so there is weight in the corners.

Texturize the top using a 23 tooth thinning shear so not to take to much hair out. Use the same technique as the barber shear. Start ⅓ of the way down on the shaft of the hair. Close the scissor 3 times while lifting the shear upward. This will create movement.

Horseshoe of the top preparing the sides and back for clipper over comb. Create graduation using the parietal length as a guide. Use the clipper over comb technique with a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR and a 1 ½ blade. This particular blade is very forgiving and will avoid leaving clipper marks due to the length of the teeth and the width of the blade. This works especially well with light colored hair and/or fine hair.

Using slow strokes clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head.While you have the 1 ½ blade on the detachable blade clipper start the outline of the haircut using a scooping motion to begin creating the tapered finish. This will leave a soft feminine outline for the particular style instead of a tight taper or lining off the outline with a finishing clipper.

If the hairline is thick you can use an adjustable clipper in the open position and halfway closed position as long as you drop the clipper down low enough on the neck leaving the hairline soft. Just make sure to get any fuzz off the neck by the collar if there is hair growing there.

Texturize the parietal area and top further with the straight razor over comb technique. This is just like the scissor over comb technique except you are using a straight razor. Use the same steps as on the top. Take a center section with the comb halfway down the shaft of the hair and move the straight razor quickly so it does not pull. Also, by moving the razor quickly and the comb quickly you control how much weight you take out of the hair. When using the straight razor over comb technique in the parietal area make sure to keep the comb parallel to the sides and back. This will leave the necessary weight at the round of the head for the style.

To style this haircut make sure the hair is completely dry before applying product. The hair will stand up and get more of a messy look if you use a hair dryer blow the hair forward first and the back. Getting the heat down to the roots will lift the hair and bring out the texture. Using a blow dryer dry the hair forward, to the side, and then from front to back.

This client likes a matte or dry finish which is perfect for a short female clipper cut hairstyle. The product to achieve this is the Zorian of New York Shaping Paste. It spreads like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York Shaping Paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized which you will notice when you rinse off your hands. Your skin will feel softer as well. The matte paste is water soluble and will rinse out with ease without any leftover residue.

Take a full fingertip portion out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward first and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Style to your desired messy look with or without a slight part.


Undercut with a Comb Over and Hard Part

Undercut with Hard PartI had the opportunity to give a fun haircut with a twist at a recent class I taught for the O’Ba Men product line. This hairstyle is an undercut with a comb over and a hard part with a bald fade. I know that is a mouthful but it stresses the importance of my teaching methods. You need to be well versed in all of the basic barbering techniques as well as different hairstyles. This particular haircut is a combination of four different hairstyles: Undercut, Side Part, Hard Part shaved in, and a Bald Fade. It also uses the following barbering basic techniques: Scissor over Fingers, Blade on Skin with a detachable blade clipper, finishing clipper, and straight razor.

Undercut with a Comb Over and Hard Part

1. Shampoo and condition the hair so you can control it better. Lightly trim the ends to remove any dead ends with the scissor over fingers technique.

2. Use the blade on skin or fading technique on the sides. Hold the hair out of the way with the comb and start with the quarter inch attachment or blade. Shave up the part and keep it even all of the way around the head. This will leave the hair dark enough that you will see the contrast when you cut in the part.

3. Work down through the 1/8th attachment or blade and then the 1/16th. Fade each shorter blade into the previous blade by using a scooping motion just a little bit lower than the previous one.

4. Use an adjustable clipper in the open position to continue the process. Work the same steps as above moving the lever shorter each time. I usually repeat this step about 3 or 4 times to avoid leaving any lines of demarcation.

5. Repeat step 4 with a powerful trimmer. Lastly, follow up with a foil shaver or electric beard trimmer to complete the fade.

6. Shave in the part with a t-outliner by making a line along the natural part back to the pivot. Touch up the line with a straight razor to make the line more noticeable. Make sure to use a shave oil so the blade does not pull but you can still see the area you are shaving.

7. Use a pomade for a wet look or a dry paste for a dry looking finishing. A brush will give a more textured look or you can use a comb for a more slicked look.

Have fun with this hairstyle and be creative…


Premiere Hair Show Birmingham

Premiere BirminghamI am very happy to announce that I have been selected to teach two barbering classes at the upcoming Premiere Hair Show Birmingham on Sunday and Monday October 19th and 20th. I will also have a booth at the show where I will be performing hair cutting demonstrations for both days. If you are planning on attending I will need models for the booth as well as my classes. I am looking for all types of hairstyles for the booth. For my classes I need anyone interested in getting a classic flattop, a modern flattop with a longer front, and a classic side part with a hard part shaved in. If anyone is interested please contact me at

Throughout the weekend and the for the classes I will be demonstrating both basic and advanced barbering techniques such as fading, clipper over comb, scissor over comb, thinning shear over comb, razor cutting and much more. I will be available to give advice on the best tools for whatever your specialty in men’s haircutting/barbering may be.

I will also have  my complete library of Barber DVDs available for sale with a 40% show discount. If you are in the market for more continuing education don’t miss this opportunity to learn and save big!

Stay tuned for more information on the classes and my booth number…




Medium Fade Haircut

Medium Fade HaircutWe are very excited to release our newest video: The Medium Fade Haircut with a longer textured top. Anytime you are leaving a longer top and cutting the sides very close it can be very challenging. Some of the important things to remember are not to fade higher than the widest point of the head and make sure the blending area is never higher than the front length. These are the two most important instructions in providing a balanced medium fade or any fade for that matter. 

Hands On Barber Training Class

IMG_7760 We are very excited to be holding our popular hands on barber training class  at Gregory’s Barbershop in Delmar, New York on Monday, September 8th. This class always sells out fast so if you are interested in taking your barbering/men’s hair cutting skills to the next level please reserve your seat as soon as possible. Contact Greg at (518)629-5394 or to sign up. The class is limited to 10 students and we will have two instructors so everyone will get plenty of one on one attention.

“This class will also include one male manikin head valued at $49.99, a copy of our Barbering Basics DVD valued at $99.95, as well as all students attending our live events receive 40% off all of our DVDs!” In addition, water, coffee, tea, and a catered lunch will be provided as well!

Hands On Barber Training Class:

Morning Session: 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

  1. Introduction to men’s haircut shape and sections (terminology)
  2. Introduction to basic men’s haircutting techniques (terminology and demonstration)
    1. Scissor Over Fingers
    2. Scissor Over Comb
    3. Clipper Over Comb
    4. Blade On Skin
    5. Class will demonstrate correct holding of tools, body positioning in relation to the head, and correct posture for cutting
    6. Three hands–on haircuts on mannequins incorporating Scissor Over Fingers, Scissor Over Comb, and Clipper Over Comb.
      1. Long men’s layer cut with disconnected bangs
      2. Medium length men’s layer cut with disconnected bangs
      3. Pompadour

Lunch: 1 p.m. – 2 p.m.

Afternoon Session: 2 p.m. – 6 p.m.

  1. Four hands–on haircuts on mannequins focusing on all of the basic men’s haircutting techniques:
    1. Professional Business Haircut
    2. Ivy League Haircut
    3. Flattop
    4. Bald Fade
    5. Q&A