In this barber video tutorial learn how to cut and style short men’s clipper cut. Begin by cutting the top with the barber shear over comb technique. For thick hair follow up with the thinning shear over comb technique. Next, fade the sides with a 3 ½ metal blade down to a 1 ½ blade. Keep the fade below the temples. Touch up the blend with the clipper over comb technique using a 1 ½ blade for a more blended cut. Fade out the neckline with an adjustable clipper starting in the longest setting down to the shortest and finish off with an outliner.
Style the hair forward with a slight flip up in the front. Start by applying a drop Zorian Of New York firm hold gel. Our gel is a specialty blend gel is alcohol free and contains aloe vera to keep your skin and hair moisturized while avoiding flaking. Using a hair dryer dry the hair forward and then up in front. This will mold the hair into place.
Next, use the Zorian of New York Shaping paste which is very easy to work with. It emulsifies like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York shaping paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized. Emulsify a full fingertip portion in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Finally, push the hair back down forward and push up in the front with a little bit of a messy texture look.
The modern men’s brushed back hairstyle with undercut sides is a new version of the undercut. The sides and are undercut to the back of the ear and the back of the haircut is tapered or faded and blended to the top. In this version the hair is slightly longer than a tight skin or bald fade. This cut can also be done with one side undercut and the other side disconnected which means it is faded up to the part and not blended to the top adding another dimension to the haircut. As with a lot of today’s men’s hairstyles they can be a combination of 2-3 different hairstyles in one.
Over direct the top back to the back of the ear in order to leave it longer. Use the barber shear over fingers techniques to make your first cut to serve as a guide. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor to make sure you have a square shape.
When you get to the front of the ear the traveling guide becomes a stationary guide. Over direct the hair from the front to the stationary guide and make the final cut.
As you repeat this step on the left and right of the center guide this will leave weight in the corners so the hair combs back or brushes back with ease. Especially in this case where the hair is extremely straight. If you round your fingers when you cut the top the hair will stick out and the style will be out of balance.
Before moving on to the fade use the barber scissor over fingers technique in the back just below the crown. Take vertical sections in between the back of the ears removing bulk. Use the crown as your guide making sure not to cut the hair to short so that it will stick up.
Next, move on to fading the sides and back using a detachable clipper similar to the Oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR or equivalent. You can fade with a 3 ¾ metal blade or use the clipper over comb technique with the 1 ½ blade and a large clipper comb.
Section the top out of the way from the front to the back of the ear clipper cut up to the parietal or temple area to the back or the ear. Fade the hair to the same length all the way up to the hair that is sectioned off being careful not to cut any of the top.
Repeat this step on the opposite side. In the back use the clipper over comb technique and fade to your guide.
Move on to the semi-finish. Use an adjustable clipper such as the Andis Envy, Andis Master, Wahl Designer, Wahl Senior, Oster fast feed, or equivalent in the longest blade setting and use a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out. Repeat this step with lever adjusted halfway and then the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper. Make sure to blend each side into the beard evenly.
Last, use a t-outliner or trimmer to finish the haircut. Line off the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.
Complete the look by styling the hair. Start out by applying a small amount of alcohol free Zorian of New York firm hold gel infused with aloe vera to the hair and thoroughly dry. This will give the straight hair more body and form the style when dry. Use a vent brush and dry the hair back and to the center.
Next, apply the Zorian of New York classic pomade infused with jojaba seed extract and ginseng. Take a full fingertip portion of the product out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Use your fingertips to get the product down to the roots with a lifting motion. Push the sides down so they do not stick out. Follow with a vent brush for a loose textured look or a fine tooth comb for a tight slicked back look.
The Andis Company will be featuring Greg Zorian at Premiere Birmingham on Sunday and Monday October 25th and 26th. I am very excited to be teaching 3 classes over the two day show for the Andis company who I feel makes the best clippers combined with the best customer service. I will be covering a lot of topics in my classes and demonstrating 2 of today’s most popular hairstyles: the side part and a fade with a textured top. I will be demonstrating how to cut these hairstyles with the correct tools for maximum efficiency.
For anyone looking to take their men’s haircutting skills to the next level and your knowledge of the tools and techniques to get you there here is what you will learn:
1. How to choose the correct clipper for a given task
2. Three different types of motors that power your clippers
3. When to use an adjustable clipper vs. a detachable blade clipper
4. The features and benefits of corded vs. cordless clippers
5. The correct tools and techniques to simplify fading
6. How to maintain your clipper properly to ensure longevity
I am also honored to be a part of a new personalized class this year’s show is launching this year called Beautiful Moments. Show attendees had the opportunity to sign up for a private class with Andis and myself limited to 8 people. We had an overwhelming response with over 200 people signing up to win. This is going to be an exciting class where all attendees will be able to see up close and personal how I approach a haircut using the highest quality Andis tools. There will also be plenty of time to ask whatever questions you may have to take you to the highest level in your men’s cutting.
Looking forward to seeing old friends and making many new ones at the upcoming Premiere Birmingham Show…
I recently had the opportunity to present an Andis clipper cutting class in Farmington Hills, Michigan. at the Industry Source. A wide variety of topics were covered and I also had the opportunity to demonstrate some fun haircuts with the best clippers of course. The class started out with a presentation on how to choose the correct clipper for each individual. This was done through educating the class on the three different types of clippers which include detachable blade, adjustable blade, and trimmers. Also, the features and benefits of the three types of motors were discussed in great detail: rotary motor, magnetic motor, and pivot motor. After giving the class a detailed explanation of the above we spent a considerable amount of time on clipper maintenance. This is probably on of the most least talked about but important topics in barbering. Every clipper should be cleaned, disinfected, and oiled before each use. No if, and’s, or but’s about it. This will ensure a longer life for your clippers and optimum cutting efficiency. One of the most fun parts of these classes is to pull some of the attendees on stage to demonstrate and give away free stuff from Andis for their participation.
Next, it was on to the haircuts. I was able to demonstrate some live haircuts as well as on mannequins. I started out with a side part haircut and demonstrated the back hand clipper cutting or shear style cutting technique on the top section. On the sides and back I demonstrated how to achieve the same look with clipper over comb or plastic attachments along with a detailed explanation of the benefits of each. Finally, we finished off the haircut with a hard part which means shaving a part into the head with a powerful trimmer to make it stand out.
Next up I demonstrated a textured haircut on a mannequin. In this haircut I again used the back hand or shear style cutting technique with the clippers to remove length and layer the hair. To add texture I used the texturizing blade on the detachable blade clipper. This blade (T-24) takes the place of using a blending shear or straight razor. The attendees who come up on stage to try it out absolutely loved this technique and the finish it leaves on the hair.
On our last model I demonstrated a side part undercut with a bald fade and cut the part in. Many techniques were used on this haircut but the one I like to demonstrate the most is the reverse fading technique. In other words, fading from the top down without putting a line in first. The class loved this technique. Especially the idea of almost completely eliminating the blending step to save time while increasing efficiency.
Overall it was a great class and I appreciate the opportunity to have been able to present this class for Andis and the Industry Source. I am looking forward to my next trip back.
The low skin fade with a longer top is one of the most difficult haircuts to deliver. There are many things to take into consideration. A few of them are: How long will the top be?, Where are you going to place the fade?, What type of finished look is the client going for?, and Will you shave the sides or use your shortest clipper?. The answer to a lot of these questions depends on the shape of the clients head, any scalp imperfections he may be trying to cover up, and changes in color or density of the hair.
Low Skin Fade With A Longer Top:
1. Determine the desired length on top and cut the hair accordingly. Start in the center and create your first guide. Follow that guide on the right and left of the center using a traveling guide and keeping you fingers or comb parallel to the floor to maintain a square shape. I prefer the scissor over comb or clipper over comb technique for greater accuracy,
2. Cut the round of the head section using the clipper over comb or scissor over comb technique. This will allow you to remove excess bulk and keep you from cutting too high with the larger blades.
3. Start with the 3/8th’s metal blade or clipper attachment and fade down (not up) to you 1/16th just below the parietal and occipital bones.
4. Create a guide with your adjustable clipper in the fully closed position about 1 inch below where you left off with the 1/16th blade or attachment. Make sure to use a flick of the wrist motion so you do not create a line.
5. Open up the blade halfway and start the blend by using a scooping motion into heavier area left from the previous step. Repeat by opening up the blade all of the way.
6. Use an outliner to fade up below where you left off in step 4. I don’t start with the trimmer because it leaves a line that is too difficult to blend out.
7. Finish up with a foil shaver to get skin close. Stop a little bit below where you left off in the previous step.
Important Fading Tip: Make sure with each blade or attachment length you leave enough distance between so the fading effect is created without leaving any heavy spots or lines.