Prom season is upon us and the Princeton Style haircut is an excellent choice for a classic look made popular in the 1950’s. Throughout my career this has been one of the most common haircuts in the barbershop. It is easy to maintain for the customer especially with problem crown areas. With that being said it is a more difficult hairstyle to cut because of the extreme differences in length. In this case the customer has very straight hair so even though the crown area is being cut almost as short as the sides the top has to be left long enough so it can be styled to the side without standing up. This particular model is special to me because I have been personally cutting his hair since he was 3 years old and now I just gave him his senior prom haircut. Next up I will be giving him his going away to college haircut this fall. It is such an honor to be an important and memorable part of so many of these young men’s lives as they are growing up.
Princeton Style Haircut For Prom Season:
1. Use a 3/8th’s attachment comb or metal blade and shave over the pivot area and the sides and back of the head.
2. Taper around the outline of the haircut with an adjustable clipper to leave a low natural finish. Make sure not to go higher than the natural hairline.
3. Use the clipper over comb technique to blend in the crown area to the top. Make sure not to blend too far forward or the hair will stand up.
4. Use the scissor over comb technique on the top section to trim the hair to the desired length.
5. Blow dry the hair into the desired style with a light gel until completely dry.
6. Finish with a dry paste and style to the clients preference.
This is a classic cut that is not going out of style any time soon. It is a great solution for young children with problem crown areas or anyone looking for a low maintenance hairstyle.
The flattop haircut is one of the most basic barber haircuts. With that said basic does not mean easy. You are creating a square shape on a round object and with the hair being so short any imperfection will show. Proficiency with the flattop hairstyle will give you a good understanding of fading techniques, clipper over comb techniques, and scissor over comb techniques. You will also gain an understanding of the square shaped haircut and the concept of leaving weight in the corners that most men’s hairstyles require.
The Flattop Haircut:
1. Fade the sides to the desired length.
2. Taper the outline of the haircut.
3. Blend the round of the head section into the top section using the clipper or scissor over comb technique.
4. Apply a light hold gel to the hair and blow dry the hair so that it is all standing up evenly.
5. Using a large flattop comb and the clipper over comb technique create your center guide. Make sure to leave the front longer and angle slightly downward in the crown area.
6. Repeat step 5 on the left and right sides evening off the top. Make sure to always keep your comb parallel to the floor to ensure the square shape and preserve the corners.
7. Apply the final styling product and complete the final touch up. I recommend spinning the chair 360 degrees and checking from every angle in your mirror before letting the client leave.
The low skin fade with a longer top is one of the most difficult haircuts to deliver. There are many things to take into consideration. A few of them are: How long will the top be?, Where are you going to place the fade?, What type of finished look is the client going for?, and Will you shave the sides or use your shortest clipper?. The answer to a lot of these questions depends on the shape of the clients head, any scalp imperfections he may be trying to cover up, and changes in color or density of the hair.
Low Skin Fade With A Longer Top:
1. Determine the desired length on top and cut the hair accordingly. Start in the center and create your first guide. Follow that guide on the right and left of the center using a traveling guide and keeping you fingers or comb parallel to the floor to maintain a square shape. I prefer the scissor over comb or clipper over comb technique for greater accuracy,
2. Cut the round of the head section using the clipper over comb or scissor over comb technique. This will allow you to remove excess bulk and keep you from cutting too high with the larger blades.
3. Start with the 3/8th’s metal blade or clipper attachment and fade down (not up) to you 1/16th just below the parietal and occipital bones.
4. Create a guide with your adjustable clipper in the fully closed position about 1 inch below where you left off with the 1/16th blade or attachment. Make sure to use a flick of the wrist motion so you do not create a line.
5. Open up the blade halfway and start the blend by using a scooping motion into heavier area left from the previous step. Repeat by opening up the blade all of the way.
6. Use an outliner to fade up below where you left off in step 4. I don’t start with the trimmer because it leaves a line that is too difficult to blend out.
7. Finish up with a foil shaver to get skin close. Stop a little bit below where you left off in the previous step.
Important Fading Tip: Make sure with each blade or attachment length you leave enough distance between so the fading effect is created without leaving any heavy spots or lines.
The International Beauty Show New York 2015 will be one of the largest shows of its kind this year. 63,000 people from all over the world will be in attendance over 3 days which begins on Sunday March 8th. There will be all types of education available with over 150 free classes taught by some of the best educators in the world. Make sure to put some of the show stopping main stage performances on your list of things to see as well. If you are in need of tools and products there will be over 500 exhibitors with great show deals. If you are a student still in school and are intimidated by such a large venue there is a student day devoted just to you on Tuesday, March 10th so make sure to come for the day to get a feel for what the hair industry is all about.
I will be there as a platform artist for the Andis Company with 3 other incredible educators: Danny Amorim Sr., Kenny Duncan, and Jessica Zeinstra. We will be demonstrating how to achieve all types of hairstyles with the best and most efficient clipper cutting techniques for all 3 days. Make sure to stop by booth #1801 to say hello, ask questions about how to improve your skills, possibly get a haircut, and to check out the latest in clipper technology.
Also, Xcluciv Barber Supply will be carrying my full library of High Definition Barbering DVDs in package deals or on sale individually at booth #2231. Make sure to stop by and pick up your copies to take home with you at incredible show prices.
Most of all, have a great time, take in all of the education you can to advance you career, and enjoy New York City.
On January 12th HowToCutHair.tv held it’s latest hands on barbering course at Gregory’s Barbershop in Delmar, New York. The shop is a perfect place to hold class because it gives the attendees the opportunity to work in an award winning barbershop. It’s always great to work with so many people that are so passionate about men’s cutting and one of the students was attending the class for her second time.
HowToCutHair.tv Hands On Barbering Course
The course outline for this class was as always very ambitious. We taught and practiced 6 haircuts in only 8 hours. We started out with a long men’s layered haircut where the class learned the difference between working with a traveling guide and a stationary guide. Next, we moved on to a medium length layered haircut with disconnected bangs. This is a versatile haircut that can be worn to the side or brushed straight back. Always a class favorite is the Pompadour 1950’s style. We always challenge the class to see who can get the top to stand up the highest when styled. From there we moved on to the traditional side part haircut which is the often referred to as “The Barber Shop Regular”. Next, we did a shorter version of the “Barbershop Regular” giving us the opportunity to practice fading techniques with longer clipper attachments and metal clipper blades. Lastly, came the most challenging haircut: “The Flattop”. We consider this the most difficult and challenging haircut because you are cutting a square shape on a round object. The hair is short and any imperfection will show.
This is our most popular class and everyone did an excellent job. Out of the 8 attendees we had two barbers drive 1,000 miles to take the class, one barber 200 miles, and another barber 75 miles. Since the class we have received many updates on how everyone is doing which is always encouraging to us to let us know we have had a part in our students successes.
If you are interested in enrolling in any upcoming on location group classes, on location one on one classes, would like us to come to your barbershop, salon, or school, or would like to find out about any trade show appearances and barbering classes near you please e-mail email@example.com or call us at (518)629-5394.