The low skin fade with a longer top is one of the most difficult haircuts to deliver. There are many things to take into consideration. A few of them are: How long will the top be?, Where are you going to place the fade?, What type of finished look is the client going for?, and Will you shave the sides or use your shortest clipper?. The answer to a lot of these questions depends on the shape of the clients head, any scalp imperfections he may be trying to cover up, and changes in color or density of the hair.
Low Skin Fade With A Longer Top:
1. Determine the desired length on top and cut the hair accordingly. Start in the center and create your first guide. Follow that guide on the right and left of the center using a traveling guide and keeping you fingers or comb parallel to the floor to maintain a square shape. I prefer the scissor over comb or clipper over comb technique for greater accuracy,
2. Cut the round of the head section using the clipper over comb or scissor over comb technique. This will allow you to remove excess bulk and keep you from cutting too high with the larger blades.
3. Start with the 3/8th’s metal blade or clipper attachment and fade down (not up) to you 1/16th just below the parietal and occipital bones.
4. Create a guide with your adjustable clipper in the fully closed position about 1 inch below where you left off with the 1/16th blade or attachment. Make sure to use a flick of the wrist motion so you do not create a line.
5. Open up the blade halfway and start the blend by using a scooping motion into heavier area left from the previous step. Repeat by opening up the blade all of the way.
6. Use an outliner to fade up below where you left off in step 4. I don’t start with the trimmer because it leaves a line that is too difficult to blend out.
7. Finish up with a foil shaver to get skin close. Stop a little bit below where you left off in the previous step.
Important Fading Tip: Make sure with each blade or attachment length you leave enough distance between so the fading effect is created without leaving any heavy spots or lines.