Tag Archives | andis clippers

Barber Classes at IBS Las Vegas

IBS Las Vegas

I recently had the honor to teach two barber classes at IBS Las Vegas. It was a pleasure to be associated with such a professional trade show and line up of incredible educators.

My first class was titled: “Eliminate Blending with Reverse Fading”. In this class I taught the importance of starting from the top and working down. In other words if you cut the top first and then begin with your longer blades you avoid leaving a weight line that has to be blended out. Blending is what takes the most time and causes hairstylists and barbers the most stress when it comes to delivering a first class haircut. I had a great model for this class with thick hair that I was also able to demonstrate other barbering techniques such as scissor over fingers, scissor over comb, clipper over comb, over direction to create more length in the front, disconnection, as well as razor sculpting. We finished up with styling techniques featuring our Zorian of New York premium line of men’s hairstyling and shaving products to complete the look.

My second class was titled: “Fades and Flat Tops”. This is one of my favorite classes to teach because of the difficulty of the flat top and its many variations. This is also the haircut that took me personally the longest to learn which makes it so gratifying to teach. In this class we covered the same fading techniques as the previous class. The big difference is with the modern flat top style that I cut I sectioned off the top and cut the sides first. What this accomplished was disconnecting the top from the back of the ear to the front creating a pompadour effect. This style of flat top can also be referred to as a rockabilly flat top. After fading the sides I cut down the top with the scissor over comb technique. Then I applied our Zorian of New York firm hold gel to the damp hair and blow dried the top straight up. Gel is best to get the hair to stand up because once dried it won’t hardened up or is not sticky. Either of these will make it difficult to judge the hair and for the clipper to smoothly glide through. At the end of the hair cut we used our Zorian of New York shaping paste to give the hair a matte finish with a strong hold. All of the hair was brushed up and to the center to complete the modern flat top style.

Once again, if you have never attended the IBS Las Vegas hair show I highly recommend it. There were many classes to choose from including cosmetology, barbering, business, and personal development all taught by reputable and talented educators. I am looking forward to being a part of the show again next year.

Andis Clipper Cutting Class

I recently had the opportunity to present an Andis clipper cutting class in Farmington Hills, Michigan. at the IndustryAndis Clipper Cutting Class Source. A wide variety of topics were covered and I also had the opportunity to demonstrate some fun haircuts with the best clippers of course. The class started out with a presentation on how to choose the correct clipper for each individual. This was done through educating the class on the three different types of clippers which include detachable blade, adjustable blade, and trimmers. Also, the features and benefits of the three types of motors were discussed in great detail: rotary motor, magnetic motor, and pivot motor. After giving the class a detailed explanation of the above we spent a considerable amount of time on clipper maintenance. This is probably on of the most least talked about but important topics in barbering. Every clipper should be cleaned, disinfected, and oiled before each use. No if, and’s, or but’s about it. This will ensure a longer life for your clippers and optimum cutting efficiency. One of the most fun parts of these classes is to pull some of the attendees on stage to demonstrate and give away free stuff from Andis for their participation.

Next, it was on to the haircuts. I was able to demonstrate some live haircuts as well as on mannequins. I started out with a side part haircut and demonstrated the back hand clipper cutting or shear style cutting technique on the top section. On the sides and back I demonstrated how to achieve the same look with clipper over comb or plastic attachments along with a detailed explanation of the benefits of each. Finally, we finished off the haircut with a hard part which means shaving a part into the head with a powerful trimmer to make it stand out.

Next up I demonstrated a textured haircut on a mannequin. In this haircut I again used the back hand or shear style cutting technique with the clippers to remove length and layer the hair. To add texture I used the texturizing blade on the detachable blade clipper. This blade (T-24) takes the place of using a blending shear or straight razor. The attendees who come up on stage to try it out absolutely loved this technique and the finish it leaves on the hair.

On our last model I demonstrated a side part undercut with a bald fade and cut the part in. Many techniques were used on this haircut but the one I like to demonstrate the most is the reverse fading technique. In other words, fading from the top down without putting a line in first. The class loved this technique. Especially the idea of almost completely eliminating the blending step to save time while increasing efficiency.

Overall it was a great class and I appreciate the opportunity to have been able to present this class for Andis and the Industry Source. I am looking forward to my next trip back.

Princeton Style Haircut For Prom Season

Princeton HairstyleProm season is upon us and the Princeton Style haircut is an excellent choice for a classic look made popular in the 1950’s. Throughout my career this has been one of the most common haircuts in the barbershop. It is easy to maintain for the customer especially with problem crown areas. With that being said it is a more difficult hairstyle to cut because of the extreme differences in length. In this case the customer has very straight hair so even though the crown area is being cut almost as short as the sides the top has to be left long enough so it can be styled to the side without standing up. This particular model is special to me because I have been personally cutting his hair since he was 3 years old and now I just gave him his senior prom haircut. Next up I will be giving him his going away to college haircut this fall. It is such an honor to be an important and memorable part of so many of these young men’s lives as they are growing up.

Princeton Style Haircut For Prom Season:

1. Use a 3/8th’s attachment comb or metal blade and shave over the pivot area and the sides and back of the head.

2. Taper around the outline of the haircut with an adjustable clipper to leave a low natural finish. Make sure not to go higher than the natural hairline.

3. Use the clipper over comb technique to blend in the crown area to the top. Make sure not to blend too far forward or the hair will stand up.

4. Use the scissor over comb technique on the top section to trim the hair to the desired length.

5. Blow dry the hair into the desired style with a light gel until completely dry.

6. Finish with a dry paste and style to the clients preference.

This is a classic cut that is not going out of style any time soon. It is a great solution for young children with problem crown areas or anyone looking for a low maintenance hairstyle.

The Flattop Haircut

The flattop haircut is one of the most basic barber haircuts. With that said basic does not mean easy. You are creating a square shape on a round object and with the hair being so short any imperfection will show.  Proficiency with the flattop hairstyle will give you a good understanding of fading techniques, clipper over comb techniques, and scissor over comb techniques. You will also gain an understanding of the square shaped haircut and the concept of leaving weight in the corners that most men’s hairstyles require.

The Flattop Haircut:

1. Fade the sides to the desired length.

2. Taper the outline of the haircut.

3. Blend the round of the head section into the top section using the clipper or scissor over comb technique.

4. Apply a light hold gel to the hair and blow dry the hair so that it is all standing up evenly.

5. Using a large flattop comb and the clipper over comb technique create your center guide. Make sure to leave the front longer and angle slightly downward in the crown area.

6. Repeat step 5 on the left and right sides evening off the top. Make sure to always keep your comb parallel to the floor to ensure the square shape and preserve the corners.

7. Apply the final styling product and complete the final touch up. I recommend spinning the chair 360 degrees and checking from every angle in your mirror before letting the client leave.

Low Skin Fade With A Longer Top

IMG_5068The low skin fade with a longer top is one of the most difficult haircuts to deliver. There are many things to take into consideration. A few of them are: How long will the top be?, Where are you going to place the fade?, What type of finished look is the client going for?, and Will you shave the sides or use your shortest clipper?. The answer to a lot of these questions depends on the shape of the clients head, any scalp imperfections he may be trying to cover up, and changes in color or density of the hair.

Low Skin Fade With A Longer Top:

1. Determine the desired length on top and cut the hair accordingly. Start in the center and create your first guide. Follow that guide on the right and left of the center using a traveling guide and keeping you fingers or comb parallel to the floor to maintain a square shape. I prefer the scissor over comb or clipper over comb technique for greater accuracy,

2. Cut the round of the head section using the clipper over comb or scissor over comb technique. This will allow you to remove excess bulk and keep you from cutting too high with the larger blades.

3. Start with the 3/8th’s metal blade or clipper attachment and fade down (not up) to you 1/16th just below the parietal and occipital bones.

4. Create a guide with your adjustable clipper in the fully closed position about 1 inch below where you left off with the 1/16th blade or attachment. Make sure to use a flick of the wrist motion so you do not create a  line.

5. Open up the blade halfway and start the blend by using a scooping motion into heavier area left from the previous step. Repeat by opening up the blade all of the way.

6. Use an outliner to fade up below where you left off in step 4. I don’t start with the trimmer because it leaves a line that is too difficult to blend out.

7. Finish up with a foil shaver to get skin close. Stop a little bit below where you left off in the previous step.

Important Fading Tip: Make sure with each blade or attachment length you leave enough distance between so the fading effect is created without leaving any heavy spots or lines.

 

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