Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured Top

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured TopThis short clipper cut hairstyle with textured top for women very popular. Miley Cyrus shocked everyone when she cut her hair off a few years ago but when done correctly these haircuts look incredibly stylish. When cutting these women’s hairstyles an understanding of how to leave a natural feminine outline is especially important. Barbers are increasingly cutting more of these haircuts because of their versatile skills with short hair.  A few different barbering techniques are extremely important to deliver on this hairstyle. They include: barber shear over comb, straight razor over comb, thinning shear over comb, clipper over comb, and clipper blending.

To begin the haircut start on the top. Pick up a center section starting in the front and over direct to the middle of the ear leaving the hair longer in the front. Work all the way back to the crown making sure to leave the hair longer in the crown. Repeat this step on each side of the center guide making sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor. This will ensure keeping a square shape so there is weight in the corners.

Texturize the top using a 23 tooth thinning shear so not to take to much hair out. Use the same technique as the barber shear. Start ⅓ of the way down on the shaft of the hair. Close the scissor 3 times while lifting the shear upward. This will create movement.

Horseshoe of the top preparing the sides and back for clipper over comb. Create graduation using the parietal length as a guide. Use the clipper over comb technique with a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR and a 1 ½ blade. This particular blade is very forgiving and will avoid leaving clipper marks due to the length of the teeth and the width of the blade. This works especially well with light colored hair and/or fine hair.

Using slow strokes clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head.While you have the 1 ½ blade on the detachable blade clipper start the outline of the haircut using a scooping motion to begin creating the tapered finish. This will leave a soft feminine outline for the particular style instead of a tight taper or lining off the outline with a finishing clipper.

If the hairline is thick you can use an adjustable clipper in the open position and halfway closed position as long as you drop the clipper down low enough on the neck leaving the hairline soft. Just make sure to get any fuzz off the neck by the collar if there is hair growing there.

Texturize the parietal area and top further with the straight razor over comb technique. This is just like the scissor over comb technique except you are using a straight razor. Use the same steps as on the top. Take a center section with the comb halfway down the shaft of the hair and move the straight razor quickly so it does not pull. Also, by moving the razor quickly and the comb quickly you control how much weight you take out of the hair. When using the straight razor over comb technique in the parietal area make sure to keep the comb parallel to the sides and back. This will leave the necessary weight at the round of the head for the style.

To style this haircut make sure the hair is completely dry before applying product. The hair will stand up and get more of a messy look if you use a hair dryer blow the hair forward first and the back. Getting the heat down to the roots will lift the hair and bring out the texture. Using a blow dryer dry the hair forward, to the side, and then from front to back.

This client likes a matte or dry finish which is perfect for a short female clipper cut hairstyle. The product to achieve this is the Zorian of New York Shaping Paste. It spreads like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York Shaping Paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized which you will notice when you rinse off your hands. Your skin will feel softer as well. The matte paste is water soluble and will rinse out with ease without any leftover residue.

Take a full fingertip portion out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward first and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Style to your desired messy look with or without a slight part.

 

Modern Men’s Brushed Back Hairstyle with Undercut Sides

Modern Men’s Brushed Back Hairstyle with Undercut Sides

The modern men’s brushed back hairstyle with undercut sides is a new version of the undercut. The sides and are undercut to the back of the ear and the back of the haircut is tapered or faded and blended to the top. In this version the hair is slightly longer than a tight skin or bald fade. This cut can also be done with one side undercut and the other side disconnected which means it is faded up to the part and not blended to the top adding another dimension to the haircut. As with a lot of today’s men’s hairstyles they can be a combination of 2-3 different hairstyles in one.

Over direct the top back to the back of the ear in order to leave it longer. Use the barber shear over fingers techniques to make your first cut to serve as a guide. Keep your fingers parallel to the floor to make sure you have a square shape.

When you get to the front of the ear the traveling guide becomes a stationary guide. Over direct the hair from the front to the stationary guide and make the final cut.

As you repeat this step on the left and right of the center guide this will leave weight in the corners so the hair combs back or brushes back with ease. Especially in this case where the hair is extremely straight. If you round your fingers when you cut the top the hair will stick out and the style will be out of balance.

Before moving on to the fade use the barber scissor over fingers technique in the back just below the crown. Take vertical sections in between the back of the ears removing bulk. Use the crown as your guide making sure not to cut the hair to short so that it will stick up.

Next, move on to fading the sides and back using a detachable clipper similar to the Oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR or equivalent. You can fade with a 3 ¾ metal blade or use the clipper over comb technique with the 1 ½ blade and a large clipper comb.

Section the top out of the way from the front to the back of the ear clipper cut up to the parietal or temple area to the back or the ear. Fade the hair to the same length all the way up to the hair that is sectioned off being careful not to cut any of the top.

Repeat this step on the opposite side. In the back use the clipper over comb technique and fade to your guide.

Move on to the semi-finish. Use an adjustable clipper such as the Andis Envy, Andis Master, Wahl Designer, Wahl Senior, Oster fast feed, or equivalent in the longest blade setting and use a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut to fade out.  Repeat this step with lever adjusted halfway and then the shortest setting scooping the clipper a little bit lower each time to finish the taper. Make sure to blend each side into the beard evenly.

Last, use a t-outliner or trimmer to finish the haircut. Line off the diagonal line behind the ears without cutting into the natural hairline. On the back of the neck use an upward shaving motion without getting too close to the tapered or faded hairline.

Complete the look by styling the hair. Start out by applying a small amount of alcohol free Zorian of New York firm hold gel infused with aloe vera to the hair and thoroughly dry. This will give the straight hair more body and form the style when dry. Use a vent brush and dry the hair back and to the center.

Next, apply the Zorian of New York classic pomade infused with jojaba seed extract and ginseng. Take a full fingertip portion of the product out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Use your fingertips to get the product down to the roots with a lifting motion. Push the sides down so they do not stick out. Follow with a vent brush for a loose textured look or a fine tooth comb for a tight slicked back look.

Andis Clipper Cutting Class

I recently had the opportunity to present an Andis clipper cutting class in Farmington Hills, Michigan. at the IndustryAndis Clipper Cutting Class Source. A wide variety of topics were covered and I also had the opportunity to demonstrate some fun haircuts with the best clippers of course. The class started out with a presentation on how to choose the correct clipper for each individual. This was done through educating the class on the three different types of clippers which include detachable blade, adjustable blade, and trimmers. Also, the features and benefits of the three types of motors were discussed in great detail: rotary motor, magnetic motor, and pivot motor. After giving the class a detailed explanation of the above we spent a considerable amount of time on clipper maintenance. This is probably on of the most least talked about but important topics in barbering. Every clipper should be cleaned, disinfected, and oiled before each use. No if, and’s, or but’s about it. This will ensure a longer life for your clippers and optimum cutting efficiency. One of the most fun parts of these classes is to pull some of the attendees on stage to demonstrate and give away free stuff from Andis for their participation.

Next, it was on to the haircuts. I was able to demonstrate some live haircuts as well as on mannequins. I started out with a side part haircut and demonstrated the back hand clipper cutting or shear style cutting technique on the top section. On the sides and back I demonstrated how to achieve the same look with clipper over comb or plastic attachments along with a detailed explanation of the benefits of each. Finally, we finished off the haircut with a hard part which means shaving a part into the head with a powerful trimmer to make it stand out.

Next up I demonstrated a textured haircut on a mannequin. In this haircut I again used the back hand or shear style cutting technique with the clippers to remove length and layer the hair. To add texture I used the texturizing blade on the detachable blade clipper. This blade (T-24) takes the place of using a blending shear or straight razor. The attendees who come up on stage to try it out absolutely loved this technique and the finish it leaves on the hair.

On our last model I demonstrated a side part undercut with a bald fade and cut the part in. Many techniques were used on this haircut but the one I like to demonstrate the most is the reverse fading technique. In other words, fading from the top down without putting a line in first. The class loved this technique. Especially the idea of almost completely eliminating the blending step to save time while increasing efficiency.

Overall it was a great class and I appreciate the opportunity to have been able to present this class for Andis and the Industry Source. I am looking forward to my next trip back.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 3

This short clipper cut is a modern version of the side part or sometimes referred to as a short pompadour. This hairstyle is generally shorter on the sides with a longer top. Proficiency in clipper over comb as well as scissor over comb is a must to complete a well balanced short clipper cut.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 3

The objective of of this part of the haircut is to create a natural hairline or tapered hairline. This takes place in the semi-finish area of the haircut which is the 1 – 2 finger width area above the ears and shirt collar. To achieve perfection in this area the barbering techniques of clipper over comb and fading is a must. You will also need a high quality adjustable clipper and a finishing comb.

1. Start at the right side burn and use the clipper over comb technique to graduate the hair from shorter to longer.

2. Follow this step around the ear. After using the clipper over comb technique hold the blade at a 45 degree angle and cut around the ear.

3. Repeat step one along the back of the neck. Next, use a scooping motion with clipper lever in the open position right on the neck to graduate the hairline. Repeat this step twice. Once with the lever halfway closed and next with the lever all of the way closed.

4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the opposite side.

 

Barber Tool Tips – The Andis MVP

In this ongoing series of blogs we will be reviewing and educating the consumer on all different types of  barber tools based on our three generations of experience and hundreds of thousands of haircuts provided.  We will be covering what we feel are the best tools and why, what they are best suited for, and how to take care of them properly.

Barber Tool Tips – The Andis MVP
The Andis MVP Clipper

In our personal opinion when it comes to rotary motor clippers the Andis MVP is the leader in the market hands down. Before we explain why we would like to give you a quick review on what a rotary motor driven clipper actually means. Rotary motors have the most power and can cut through we or dry hair. They produce and equal amount of power and blade speed providing for a smooth cut.

What we like best about the MVP:  Of all of the detachable blade rotary motor driven clippers the MVP is the lightest and most quiet without sacrificing power. This allows for a smooth transition for hairstyles with short sides and longer tops. The clipper keeps cutting as you slowly arc the blade away from the head which will leave less if any line of demarcation to be further blended out.

How To Maintain Your MVP:  There is not a lot of maintenance required. We suggest using clipper spray and oil in between each haircut to extend the life of your blades and put less strain on the motor. If you have any issues you can send your clipper to an Andis authorized service station for repairs. As with any tool we always suggest having a backup in case anything should happen during the work day so you do not lose time and money.