The Modern Side Part Haircut

The Modern side part is a really interesting take on an old classic and is very versatile. The sides are either short or faded really close. The fade can be even all the way around or disconnected on the part side depending on the customers preference. In other words, the hair can be faded all the way up to the part but blended on the opposite side. Finally, the part is cut into the haircut. This is done with the finishing clipper by cutting a thin line along the natural part. Depending on the length on the top the hair can be styled flat to the head or with some height like a Pompadour.

LEARNING OBJECTIVES
  • Understand how to cut a square shape layer cut leaving weight in the corners
  • Understand how to blend or fade without leaving a line of demarcation
  • Demonstrate the scissor over fingers technique
  • Demonstrate the scissor over comb technique
  • Demonstrate fading hair without leaving a line of demarcation
  • Demonstrate cutting a part into the haircut
STEP BY STEP GUIDE
  1. Cut the top section using the scissor over fingers technique starting with the center section.
  2. Pull the bangs straight up to ninety degrees and create your center guide.
  3. Take small sections working your way toward the crown using your first cut as a traveling guide. This way you will always see your previous guide in your fingers.
  4. For your last section over direct the hair away from the crown to allow for the back to be slightly longer. This way the crown will not be cut too short.
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 on the left side of your center guide. You many need to take two sections to the left depending on how long the hair is.
  6. Thin out or texturize the top with a 40-44 tooth thinning shear. Comb the hair in the direction it will be styled to make it easier to cut against the grain.
  7. Start in the front holding the comb parallel to the floor and slowly move the comb across the top of the head closing the thinning scissor halfway.
  8. Repeat step 7 until you reach the crown area.
  9. Cut the bang length and thickness by holding the comb parallel to the forehead. Remove the desired thickness the same as on the top and close the scissor in the same spot on the ends of the bangs to remove the desired length.
  10. Cut the round of the head section. Use the scissor over comb technique and blend to but not into the guide you created on the top section. Start at the right temple and do not cut higher than the bang length to ensure the proper balance.
  11. Follow step 10 around the head to the left temple. Dip the comb down slightly in the back to allow for the crown so it does not stand up.
  12. Texturize or thin out the round of the head section. Repeat steps 10 and 11 with the thinning shear over comb technique.
  13. Cut the sides and back section. Use the blade on skin technique with the 3 ½ (3/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start at the right sideburn and run the clipper up the side of the head slowly. As the round of the head pushes the blade away from the head follow that angle until you run out of hair. This will blend the sides and back into the round of the head section.
  14. Repeat step 13 with the 2 (¼”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start to bevel the clipper slowly away from the head about ¼ of an inch below the previous section.
  15. Repeat step 14 with the 1 ½ (1/8”) inch blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start to bevel the clipper slowly away from the head about ¼ of an inch below the previous section. While the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade is on the clipper use the clipper over comb technique to soften the blend around the round of the head if there are any heavy spots.
  16. Finish the blend if needed from the sides and back to the round of the head section. Use the 1 ½ (1/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper and the clipper comb. Hold the comb parallel to the head and run the blade across the comb while moving the comb upward.
  17. Move on to the semi finish area with the adjustable clipper. Open the lever all of the way leaving it at the longest setting. Use a scooping motion about 1-2 fingers width around the outline of the haircut. This will start the taper.
  18. Repeat step 9 with the lever of the adjustable clipper halfway closed. Use the same scooping motion around the outline of the haircut ½ to 1 finger width. (If the customer has a thin or high hairline around the ears skip this step on the sideburn area and around the ears.)
  19. Repeat step 10 with the lever to the adjustable clipper in the closed position. Use the scooping motion about ¼ – ½ inch around the perimeter of the haircut. After this step is done the taper is complete and the haircut is ready for the finish. (If the customer has a thin or high hairline around the ears skip this step on the sideburn area and around the ears.)
  20. Complete the finish. Use the t-trimmer to edge off the side burn area and clean up around the ears. Pull the ear down to make it easier to see any excess hair behind the ear. Just cut the hair that pops out. Do not go in to far. That will leave too big of an arc around the ear sometimes referred to as a white wall.
  21. Make the diagonal line on the neck behind the ear. Leave the line out as far as possible. Do not go in off the natural hairline and cut into the taper.
  22. Use an upward shaving motion to clean up the back of the neck. The taper is already complete so it is extremely important not to get anywhere near the hairline. Stop ½ -1 inch below the taper so a line is not made.
  23. Finish the opposite side of the neck and sideburn area.
  24. Cut the part into the haircut using the trimmer. Comb the hair into the natural part making sure that it is perfectly straight. Hold the top hair out of the way with the comb so it is easier to see the part. Gently touch the trimmer to the scalp to make the line. Do not wiggle the clipper too much or the line will be too wide.
  25. Style the hair using a dry paste. Comb the paste all the way through the hair for maximum hold.
REVIEW QUESTIONS
  1. Which section should the haircut begin?
  2. Which haircutting technique will be used to cut the top?
  3. What cutting tool is used to thin out or texturize the top and the round of the head section?
  4. What type of clipper will give the best results for fading without leaving a line of demarcation?
  5. What type of clipper is used for the semi-finish?
  6. What type of clipper is best for the finish and cutting the part into the haircut?
  7. What type of product is used to style the hair to leave a dry finish?
AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY

This haircut has many variables to it. You must have a firm understanding of the square shape haircut as well as the texturizing techniques. You must also have a firm understanding of the fading concept of not putting a line into the haircut that needs to be blended out.

Finally, you must have a steady hand to cut the part in to ensure that it is not too wide and looks natural. This is a fun haircut and when done correctly is extremely satisfying.

 

 

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