The Long Men’s Layered Haircut

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One of the challenges a lot of barbers face is cutting longer men’s hair. With today’s multitude of styles long hair is just as popular as short hair. With that being said one of the things cosmetologists struggle with is giving a long men’s haircut while maintaining a masculine look. This particular haircutting video and lesson plan is ideal for both professions. The client who wears this type of hairstyle is a wash and wear type of guy and does not want to spend a lot of time if any styling it.

[highlight]LEARNING OBJECTIVES[/highlight]

  • Become comfortable handling and sectioning longer hair
  • Be able to demonstrate the horseshoe section on the top
  • Demonstrate how to blunt cut the bottom length of a long men’s layer cut
  • Understand how elevation of the hair leaves weight at the perimeter
  • Demonstrate how to blend the top into the already layered sides and back
  • Understand how over directing the front length will affect the results of the haircut
  • Demonstrate how to cross check your work for accuracy

[highlight]STEP BY STEP GUIDE[/highlight]

  1. Freshly shampoo and condition the hair
  2. Section off the top using a horseshoe shaped section
  3. Cut the perimeter length. Start in the center and pull the hair straight down cutting off the desired length. Make sure to keep your fingers as close to the neck as possible so you do not create and undercut.
  4. Follow the center section to the right. Angle your fingers slightly upward in front of the ear.
  5. Repeat step 4 to the left hand side.
  6. Begin layering the hair. Start with a vertical center section. Elevate the hair to 45 degrees until the bottom length falls out and cut off the desired amount of length.
  7. Continue to layer the hair to the right hand side using a traveling guide until you get to the back of the ear. Take very small sections to ensure accuracy.
  8. When you get to the back of the ear your traveling guide will become a stationary guide. Take the remaining hair from the front of the ear and comb it back to your stationary guide at the back of the ear.
  9. Go back to your original center section and repeat steps 6-8 on the left hand side.
  10. 10.Cross check your layers by starting in the center of the back and elevate the hair to 90 degrees using horizontal sections.
  11. 11.Repeat step 10 to the right hand side allowing for the over direction in front of the ear.
  12. 12.Repeat step 11 to the left hand side allowing for the over direction in front of the ear.
  13. 13.Ruffle the hair with your fingers all the way around the head to make sure the hair falls into place and you do not see any lines of demarcation.
  14. 14.Blend the top section into the already cut portion of the haircut. Take the clip out of the top and part the hair down the center.
  15. 15.Start in the center of the back of the head and repeat step 6.
  16. 16.Repeat steps 7 and 8 to the right hand side.
  17. 17.Repeat steps 7 and 8 to the left hand side.
  18. 18.Start in the front and over direct the hair to the back of the ear with horizontal sections. Pick up the hair from temple to temple and you will see a guide on both the right and left hand sides. Cut off the point in the middle.
  19. 19.Repeat step 17 using a traveling guide and small sections until you get to the crown. If you cut on a vertical plane and do not round with the shape of the head your guides will meet and this will be your stopping point.
  20. Have the client shake their head and run their fingers through the hair so it will dry in place where they like it.

[highlight]REVIEW QUESTIONS[/highlight]

  1. Which area of the hair should be cut first to establish the first guide?
  2. Will you use vertical or horizontal sectioning when layering the back and sides?
  3. What type of guide is used for layering the sides and back? Traveling, Stationary, or Both?
  4. What is the necessary step to take to make sure your layers are accurate?
  5. After taking the top section down where should it be parted before cutting?
  6. Which steps should be repeated before beginning the top section?
  7. How far back should the front be over directed when cutting the top?
  8. Which type of guide will you be using on the top sections? Stationary or Traveling?

[highlight]AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY[/highlight]

The longer layer cut is not as easy as it looks. Precise sectioning and over direction is necessary for the best results. Always keep in mind that hair is thinner in nature towards the front and layering to far forward will result in the hair being left too thin or even worse a hole in the haircut. The haircut must look natural and just fall into place no matter how the customer decides to part it. Remember, their main goal is to get out of the shower and shake their head, run their fingers through their hair, and go out on the town.