The Ivy League Haircut With Part

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The Ivy League haircut is another classic haircut that is versatile and can be styled many different ways. This version of the haircut will have a distinct side part with short sides. Also, this hair is extremely thick so it has to be thinned out or texturized properly so it will lie down on top for the 2 – 3 week life of the haircut. For the difficult hairline we chose to finish this cut with a tapered square back to make the outline stand out.

[highlight]LEARNING OBJECTIVES[/highlight]

  • Understand the square shape haircut and how to achieve it
  • Understand how to cut thick wavy hair
  • Understand the difference between a taper and a tapered and squared hairline
  • Understand how to blend or fade without leaving a line of demarcation
  • Demonstrate the scissor over comb technique
  • Demonstrate fading hair without leaving a line of demarcation

[highlight]STEP BY STEP GUIDE[/highlight]

  1. Start on the top section using the scissor over comb technique.   Comb the hair into the direction it will be styled and cut against the grain.
  2. Start in the front holding the comb parallel to the floor and slowly move the comb across the top of the head.
  3. Repeat step 2 until you reach the crown area. Do not cut the crown too short or it will stand up.
  4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the thinning shear over comb technique. This will take out the thickness and smooth out the wave.
  5. Cut the round of the head section. Use the scissor over comb technique and blend to but not into the guide you created on the top section. Start at the right temple and do not cut higher than the bang length to ensure the proper balance.
  6.  Follow step 5 around the head to the left temple. Dip the comb down slightly in the back to allow for the crown so it does not stand up.
  7. Use the blade on skin technique with the 3 ½ (3/8”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start at the right sideburn and run the clipper up the side of the head slowly. As the round of the head pushes the blade away from the head follow that angle until you run out of hair.
  8. Repeat step 7 with the 2 (¼”) blade on the detachable blade clipper. Start to bevel the clipper slowly away from the head about ¼ of an inch below the previous section.
  9. Start the semi-finish with the 1 ½ (1/8th) blade. Using a scooping motion around the outline of the haircut.
  10. While performing step 9 you can use the clipper over comb technique to smooth at the blend on the round of the head section if you see any heavy spots.
  11. Continue on with the semi-finish using the adjustable clipper. Open the lever all of the way leaving it at the longest setting. Use a scooping motion about 1-2 fingers width around the outline of the haircut.
  12. Repeat step 11 with the lever of the adjustable clipper halfway closed. Use the same scooping motion around the outline of the haircut ½ to 1 finger width. (If the customer has a thin or high hairline around the ears skip this step on the sideburn area and around the ears.)
  13. Repeat step 12 with the lever to the adjustable clipper in the closed position. Use the scooping motion about ¼ – ½ inch around the perimeter of the haircut.
  14. Complete the finish by outlining the haircut. Use the t-trimmer to edge off the side burn area and clean up around the ears. Pull the ear down to make it easier to see any excess hair behind the ear. Just cut the hair that pops out. Do not go in to far. That will leave too big of an arc around the ear sometimes referred to as a white wall.
  15. Cut the diagonal line on the neck behind the ear. Leave the line out as far as possible. Do not go in off the natural hairline and cut into the taper.
  16. Cut a straight line across the back of the neck. Place the line as low as possible so you do not cut off the natural hairline or cut off the taper that you have already created.
  17. After cutting the line on the neck use an upward shaving motion to clean up the back of the neck.
  18. Style the hair. Dampen it down slightly and start by rubbing pomade through the hair. Next, use a firm gel to layer over the top of the pomade. Finally, brush the hair into place with a fine tooth rubber brush to smooth out the wave.

[highlight]REVIEW QUESTIONS[/highlight]

  1. In which section should you begin the haircut?
  2. What is the purpose of texturizing thick wavy hair?
  3. What tool is used to texturize or thin out the hair?
  4. What cutting technique is used in the round of the head section?
  5. What type of clipper is best for cutting thick wet hair?
  6. What type of finish is used for the hairline?
  7. What two products are used for the finish to create a wet look?

[highlight]AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY[/highlight]

The Ivy League haircut is a very popular version of the side part style haircut. I have been giving this haircut in one form or another over the past two decades of my career. To perform this version correctly you must have a firm understanding of fading and texturizing techniques. You must also have a firm understanding of the difference between a tapered or squared hairline and how to cut a combination of the two for a natural looking finish.