Goatee Trim and Shave

The goatee is a classic beard trim that has been around in many variations throughout time. In this lesson you will be learning the basic goatee trim. The basic shape follows the angle of the mustache and is about 1-2 finger width below the jaw line. After the trim a straight razor is necessary to sharpen up the line for the best result.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES

  • Understand the correct proportions of a goatee trim.
  • Demonstrate a symmetrical goatee beard trim with a sharp outline.
  • Understand the process of a straight razor face shave.
  • Demonstrate the four hand grips for holding the straight razor.
  • Demonstrate a straight razor face shave without cutting into the beard trim.
Step by Step Guide
  1. Determine the length the client would like to have the beard trimmed to. In this case we will use a 1/8 attachment on the adjustable clipper or a 1/8 blade on the detachable blade clipper.
  2. Run the blade over the beard and mustache. Be sure to go slow and use the clipper in different directions so the hair is cut evenly.
  3. Line up the outline of the goatee. Follow the angle of the mustache to make the lines on the sides. Taper the outside edge by using the finishing comb at a 45 degree angle and trim the hair in the comb. This step will make it easier to cut the line.
  4. Trim the outline of the mustache. Start in the center and make a line on the lip. Do not go too high up. Start out right on the lip and give your client the option if they want the line higher.
  5. Trim the line under the chin. Stat in the center and about 1 finger width. Make the first cut in the center. Follow that line to each side using the center as a guide. Make sure to angle the line downward following the contour of the jaw line. This will make the line look straight when the client picks up their head.
  6. If the customer has a beard, go ahead and trim it down before the shave. If just a few days stubble you can skip this step.
  7. Apply a hot towel to the face. Let the towel steam for about 60 seconds and then press with both hands into the face. This will further soften the beard and the skin.
  8. Apply pre shave oil.
  9. Apply moisturizing shaving cream.
  10. Apply the hot lather.
  11. Begin the shave. Start on the right side and using your free hand stroke shave the cheek area. It is easier to switch to the backhand stroke when shaving into the goatee line to sharpen it up. You can use your freehand stroke but make sure to not lean too far over the client.
  12. Next, shave over the jaw line and the neck. Make sure to shave with the grain of the beard (in the direction it grows). Most of the time you will use your freehand stroke halfway down on the neck and then stand behind the client and switch to the reverse freehand stroke and shave up.
  13. Shave the area below the goatee. Wipe the shaving cream off so you can see your line. Face the client toward you and using the freehand stroke shave in the line and the center of the neck area. Make sure to pay attention to the direction the beard grows. Shave extremely lightly over the Adam’s apple. Stretch the skin as much as possible to each side and shave on the sides of it whenever possible.
  14. Turn the clients head toward you and begin shaving the other side of the face. Use your backhand stroke and start at the sideburn and shave downward toward the jaw line. Switch to the freehand stroke and shave toward you and sharpen up the line of the beard.
  15. Move on to shaving the neck. Using the freehand stroke complete the shave under the chin. Finish the line below the beard all the way across. Use the backhand stroke to shave the top half of the neck in a downward motion. Last, stand behind the client and use the reverse freehand stroke shaving upward on the bottom half of the neck.
  16. Apply a cool towel to close the pores.
  17. Apply an alcohol free aftershave balm. Gently massage the balm into the skin with the grain of the beard. The idea is to soothe and calm the skin after the shave. Rubbing against the grain will only irritate the skin.
  18. Blot the excess balm with a clean dry towel and fan the client’s face with it to further dry the skin.
REVIEW QUESTIONS
  1. What is the first thing you need to find out before you begin to trim the client’s beard?
  2. What do you need to do if the customer has more than normal stubble before you begin the shave?
  3. What is the first step to the face shave after trimming the stubble with the clippers?
  4. What is the purpose of the hot towel?
  5. What is applied to the face after the hot towel?
  6. What is the purpose of the pre-shave oil?
  7. What is the purpose of the warm shaving cream?
  8. What is applied to the face after the shave to remove the excess shaving cream?
  9. What is the final post-shave application?

AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY
Make sure you know what shape the client would like the beard. Some like a wider goatee and others much narrower. Also, make sure the length of the beard. Some clients like the few day growth look that you can see some skin through and others like it much thicker. Always better to start out longer and leave room to go shorter. When shaving, make sure the skin is prepared properly. Be sure to determine the direction the beard grows and shave in that direction. Shaving against the grain can cause serious irritation and ingrown hairs.