Full Beard Trim and Shave

This beard should look full but neat with a clean outline. The length of the beard should be balanced proportionally to the length of the haircut. It is best suited for a medium or longer length hairstyle.

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
Understand and become proficient at the scissor over comb technique
Understand the shape and proportion of a well-balanced beard
Understand the skin preparations for a straight razor shave
Demonstrate a partial straight razor shave

Step by Step Guide
  1. Lay the customer back in the chair and make sure the head rest is positioned at the neck so the head is slightly tilted back.
  2. Begin on the right side with the scissor over comb technique using the large scissor and scissor comb and cut the beard to the desired length. Work your way to the chin and cut the beard slightly closer around the outline.
  3. When you get to the chin face the customer straight upward. Continue to cut around the chin.
  4. Face the customer toward you and walk around to the other side of the chair or reverse the grip on the comb and cut towards you.
  5. Face the customer back to the upright position and trim the mustache. Use the finishing comb at a 45 degree angle and begin in the center. Use your trimmer to cut the hair.
  6. Repeat step 5 on each side of the center guide until you get to the corners of the mouth.
  7. Make a line on the lip. You should be able to see easily where it should be after trimming the mustache down.
  8. Outline the neck. While the customer is still facing upright, taper the bottom edge of the beard the same way you did the mustache. This will make the line cleaner and easier to see. Start in the center and work to each side.
  9. Make the line. Follow the jaw bone exactly. Make sure the distance from the jaw bone to the line in the center is the same on either side. Remember to just make the line and pull the clipper back out. Turn the clipper around and shave upward in the direction the hair grows. Dragging the clipper will cause skin irritation.
  10. Follow the same steps to make the line on the top of the cheeks.
  11. Shave with hot lather and straight razor if desired.
  12. Wrap the face with a hot towel to open the pores and soften the beard.
  13. Take off the towel when it cools off and apply pre shave oil to lubricate the skin.
  14. Apply moisturizing shaving cream. Rub in your hands first to warm up.
  15. Apply hot lather over the top of both to further soften the skin and beard.
  16. Wipe off excess shaving cream and begin shaving. Start on the right cheek and shave in the direction of the hair growth using your freehand stroke. Shave just to the line left with the trimmer but not into it to sharpen up the line.
  17. Begin on the neck on the right side. First determine the direction of the growth of the beard and shave in that direction. Make sure to shave to the line but not into it.
  18. Repeat this process in the center and on the left side.
  19. Soak a towel in cool water and blot the face to wipe off excess shaving cream. Do not rub as this will cause skin irritation.
  20. Gently massage an aftershave moisturizer into the skin.
  21. Use a towel to blot excess aftershave and then fan off the face with it creating a cool breeze.
  22. Slowly have the customer sit up so they do not get a head rush and restyle the hair if necessary.
REVIEW QUESTIONS
  1. What technique is best used for trimming a full beard?
  2. What tool is used to trim the mustache?
  3. How do you avoid irritation on the neck when shaving with the trimmer?
  4. What is the first step to preparing the skin for the shave?
  5. What is the purpose of the pre-shave oil?
  6. What is the correct direction to shave?
  7. What skin application comes after the cool towel application?

AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY
Make sure to pay extremely close attention to the direction of the hair growth. Shaving against the grain will cause irritation and painful ingrown hairs. Follow the pre shave steps religiously. They are the key to a comfortable shave. Always remember the end goal is a comfortable shave. Do not shave over the same spot repeatedly. A little bit of stubble will lay back down when the pores are closed and the skin is moisturized.

Web Development by Northeast Multimedia