Dark Caesar Haircut

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The Dark Caesar haircut is one of the most popular haircuts for textured hair in some form. For this model will chose to go with a darker version to preserve the nice wave pattern he has. The darker the hair the longer you have to leave it. We also chose to finish it off with an extremely low taper in front of the ears and on the back of the neck to make the shape of the haircut pop out instead of leaving a hard line of demarcation around the perimeter.

[highlight]LEARNING OBJECTIVES[/highlight]

  • Understand the difference between cutting textured hair and straight hair
  • Understand how to determine the growth pattern of the hair
  • Understand the reasoning behind cutting with the grain vs. against the grain
  • Demonstrate cutting an extremely low taper without making a line of demarcation first
  • Demonstrate how to style the hair to make the wave pattern stand out

[highlight]STEP BY STEP GUIDE[/highlight]

  1. Comb the hair out in the direction that it grows (back to front). In other words comb the hair with the grain of the growth pattern.
  2. On the top section cut the hair with the grain of the growth pattern with a ¼ inch attachment or blade. This will leave enough hair as not to cut off the waves
  3. Repeat the same step in the round of the head section using the same length attachment or blade in the round of the head section.
  4. Repeat the same step in the sides and back section. Start out by cutting from back to front and then switch from to cutting from the top using a downward motion. Work your way from the right hand side to the left.
  5. Cut the semi-finish area. Start where you left off in the previous step. Use and upward scooping motion on a diagonal in front of the ear. Do not go up any higher than one finger width.
  6. After scooping in an upward motion turn the clipper upside down and use a downward motion. This will eliminate any faint line of demarcation.
  7. Cut around the ears holding the clipper at a 45 degree angle to remove the excess bulk.
  8. On the back of the neck use the same scooping motion of a one finger width. Next, use a downward motion with the clipper to smooth out any slight line of demarcation. Do not round the corners.
  9. Repeat steps 5-7 on the right hand side.
  10. 10.Cut into the front hairline slightly with the ¼ inch attachment or blade to give it a slight taper. This will show off the outline better.
  11. 11.Continue on with the semi-finish using the scissor over comb technique with a finishing comb.
  12. 12.Start in front of the right ear and taper a 1 inch outline around the perimeter of the haircut. Follow this all of the way around to the left hand side.
  13. 13.Use your adjustable clipper in the open or longest position and complete the taper. Use a scooping motion on the same diagonal and pull away below where you left off with the ¼ inch attachment.
  14. 14.Close the clipper to the half way open position and repeat step 13.
  15. 15.Close your clipper all of the way to the shortest position and repeat step 14.
  16. 16.Repeat steps 13-15 on the back of the neck.
  17. 17.Repeat steps 13-15 on the right hand side in front of the ear.
  18. 18.Start the outline in the middle of the forehead. Use the trimmer and make a guide in the center. Follow that guide to the corner without going off the natural hairline.
  19. 19.Line up the farthest point the hair grows above the eye brow with the corner of the front hairline and connect the two. This will keep you from cutting in off the natural hairline.
  20. 20.From the point above the eyebrow create and arc down to the side burns. Find out if the customer would like a wider sideburn or a point.
  21. 21.Draw a distinct outline around the ear without cutting into the hairline.
  22. 22.Make a distinct diagonal line behind the ear without cutting into the natural hairline.
  23. 23.Shave the back of the neck in an upward motion without getting to close to the taper.
  24. 24.Repeat steps 18-22 on the left hand side.
  25. 25.Gently shave the front hairline, temple area, and arc in front of the ear with a straight razor to make a more defined line.
  26. 26.Style the hair with a moisturizing cream. Rub and ample amount though out the hair.
  27. 27.Blow the hair dry in the direction it grows with paddle style boar bristle brush.
  28. Remove any of the hair that is still sticking up. Use the closest cut on your clipper and freehand cut the hair off. Rest heel of the blade on the hair and rotate the toe of the blade to skim the top cutting the loose hair off. You can also do this on the sides and back if necessary.

[highlight]REVIEW QUESTIONS[/highlight]

  1. What is the first step before you begin cutting?
  2. In which direction should textured hair be cut to keep the wave?
  3. How long should the hair be left to keep the wave and the color of the hair looking dark?
  4. What type of angle should you the hair in front of the ear when giving a low taper?
  5. Which clipper should be used for creating a defined outline?
  6. What type of cutting tool should be used to further enhance the outline?
  7. What type of styling product works well to bring out the wave pattern?
  8. Describe the final step to shape the haircut and remove the excess hair?

[highlight]AUTHOR’S COMMENTARY[/highlight]

This is a very intricate hairstyle with a lot of steps to make it look natural. The client must have natural waves to begin with to achieve this style. Make sure to leave the hair long enough to bring out the waves and leave a darker look.

When you are tapering around the edges it is extremely important not to clipper the hair too high. Stay low and give yourself room to blend. This is what is going to make your haircut stand out.

Finally, do not press too hard with the trimmer when completing the outline. The clipper is sharp to begin with and you will be following it with a straight razor. Use a light and gentle touch with the straight razor. The harder you stretch the skin the closer the shave.