Xcluciv Barber Supply Shear and Straight Razor Demonstration
Our most recent class was hosted by Xcluciv Barber Supply in Middletown, New York. The focus of this barbering demonstration was on hair cutting techniques with a barber shear a straight razor. The class was well attended even though it was in the middle of a snow storm. Everyone braved the elements to come out and learn how to increase and diversify their barbering skills.
The focus of the class was on the following barbering techniques: Scissor over Comb, Scissor over Fingers, Thinning Shear over Fingers, Thinning Shear over Comb, Straight Razor over Fingers, Straight Razor over Comb, and Straight Razor Sculpting.
We also focused on versatility in hairstyles as well. We demonstrated how you can cut a taper down to a 1/4′ in length with barber shears and then showed how you can cut a disconnected Pompadour with barber shears and texturize with a straight razor.
We had a great time at Xcluciv Barber Supply and can’t wait to go back. For anyone attending the International Beauty Show in New York City this year on March 8th-10th make sure to stop by their booth #2231 and check out my full library of Barbering DVDs on display for sale at a 40% show discount.
I recently had the opportunity to teach a clipper cutting class at Michael’s School of Hair Design. I was overwhelmed with the hospitality that was shown to me by the school from the personalized welcome sign to the collage of of my work hanging up in the classroom. The students were very attentive and eager to learn, the learning leaders were among the friendliest I have met in my travels around the country, and the ownership took time out of their busy day to come and talk with me after the class.
This Andis clipper cutting class featured a power point presentation designed by their Manager of Education and Style Aileen Nunez. The class focused on teaching how to choose the correct clipper for your needs. This was done through a complete explanation of the different types of clippers and motors. For example, there are three different types of motors to choose from that all have their own features and benefits: rotary motor, magnetic motor, and pivot motor with many different styles of clippers in each category to choose from. Next, we talked about the different types of clippers: detachable blade, adjustable blade, trimmers, corded clippers, and cordless clippers. Again, with many different designs to fit your personality. Next up and most importantly was how to maintain you clippers to insure a long useful life. This is done through the proper disinfection, lubrication, and cleaning before and after each use. A thorough description of all of the motor types, clipper types, and proper maintenance can be found in the Andis catalog.
The clipper cutting class finished up with some fun hair cuts. First we cut a pompadour with a side part cut in using a the Andis MVP detachable blade clipper and an ion battery powered cordless trimmer. The hair was styled with a styling paste, high powered Andis hairdryer, and a Denman vent brush. Next, was a high top fade cut with an Andis Envy clipper with the new pink camouflage design. We used a fading technique for the sides and back and a freehand clipper cutting technique for the top. The ion battery powered cordless trimmer was used for the detailed outlining.
This short clipper cut is a modern version of the side part. This hairstyle is generally shorter on the sides with a longer top. It is also a very versatile haircut which can be styled in many different ways. This haircut can also be referred to as a short pompadour as well. The most common ways this haircut is styled:
1. Parted to the side with a wet look and some height in the front
2. Parted to the side with a messy dry finish and some height in the front.
Short Clipper Cut – Part 2
1. Use a detachable blade clipper with a number one blade. This clipper and blade combination will remove a large amount of hair with ease. Also use a large clipper comb to control the hair. Start in the right side burn area and use the clipper over comb technique. Cut to but not into the previous guide from the round of the head section.
2. Cut one panel at a time and work your way around the head. Make sure to move the comb slow so you don’t miss any sections. The slower you move the comb the more blended the haircut will be.
3. Dip the comb down slightly in the back to allow for the crown. This will keep the crown length longer so it does not stand up.
4. Complete the above steps to the left side burn and temple area.
One of the more challenging men’s hair textures to cut is curly hair. It is difficult to pick up with your fingers and cut evenly. It is also difficult to pick up with a comb using the scissor over comb techniques. That being said it is necessary to take your time and make sure to cut every hair that you are holding in your fingers or comb. Also, be very careful with your barber shear not to dig the point into your finger too hard to grab the hair. Speaking from experience this can result in cutting your finger. A quick tip to make the shorter clipper cut sides and back easier is to use a skip tooth detachable clipper blade with the clipper over comb technique.
How To Cut Curly Hair
1. Cut the top section. Create a center guide using the scissor over fingers technique and a traveling guide.
2. Cut 1-2 sections to the right and the left of your center guide using the same technique as in step one.
3. Cut the round of the head section. Start in the back and create a center guide using the scissor over finger technique. Hold your fingers parallel to the head.
4. Using a traveling guide and small sections to insure accuracy, cut the hair to the right temple and then to the left temple.
5. Taper the sides and back with the clipper over comb technique. Use a detachable blade clipper with a skip tooth blade which will grab the curly hair much better than a regular blade.
6. Complete the outline. Edge off the sideburns and clean up the back of the neck. Use an upward stroke on the back of the neck with the trimmer to avoid razor burn and cutting into the hairline.
This short clipper cut is a modern version of the side part. This hairstyle is generally shorter on the sides with a longer top. It is also a very versatile haircut which can be styled in many different ways. The most common ways to style this haircut are: parted to the side with a wet look and some height in the front, or to the side with a messy dry finish and some height in the front. This hairstyle can also be referred to as a short pompadour as well.
Short Clipper Cut – Part 1
1. Cut the top section using a thinning shear over fingers technique. The hair is very thick so it needs to be thinned out and cut at the same time.
2. Start with a center guide. Hold your fingers parallel to the floor and close the thinning shear three times starting halfway down the shaft of the hair. Use the first cut as your traveling guide and work your way back to the pivot.
3. Repeat step 2 on the right side of your center guide.
4. Repeat step 2 on the left side of your center guide.
5. Cut the front of the hair in the same manner with the thinning shears. Hold your fingers parallel to the forehead instead of parallel to the floor. This will remove thickness and length at the same time.
6. Start in the crown or pivot area and repeat step 5 to the right temple. Hold your fingers parallel to the top part of the round of the head or occipital and parietal areas.