Archive | Clipper Cutting

Comb Over with Hard Part

The Comb over with hard part is the most popular haircut in the barbering world today. I have been in the industry as a service provider and educator for over two decades and it is always interesting and fun to keep up with the changes on the classic haircuts. This particular cut when I started was referred to as a regular boy’s haircut. Now with the modern/retro twist (this is actually a 1920’s style) the name has changed and so have some of the techniques. Such as when I started no one would ever think of taking a straight razor and shave in the part area. Also, pomades were just starting to get popular but most haircuts were styled with gel, hair spray, or a combination of the two.

In this video you will learn many different barbering techniques including: barber shear over comb, thinning shear over comb, fading, blending, and straight razor shaving. You will also learn the finer points on the hand dexterity necessary for these techniques. In other words: how to hold the comb, shears, clippers, and straight razor properly allowing for the correct posture as well as optimum finished results.

For this particular haircut we have combined three different styles into one: a side part, an ivy league, and a hard part. The side part is self-explanatory. A classic young man’s haircut. The Ivy League takes it a step further. We cut the crown off and blend it to the top making it much easier to style. Works especially well for young children with difficult cowlicks and just want to get up and go. Lastly, the hard part. We first cut in the part with the trimmer and follow up with the straight razor. In this case we used our Zorian Of New York Shave Gel to get a nice clean line. It is a thick transparent gel infused with aloe vera and shea butter to form a protective barrier between the skin and razor and allow for ultimate comfort without razor burn.

Finally, to complete the finish product comes the styling portion. Very few short haircuts look good without spending some time styling and using one or two products. To get the perfect finished looked we created the shape by blowing drying the hair into place with a small amount of our Zorian Of New York firm hold gel. This will give the straight hair some body and mold difficult hair into place. Lastly, we apply the Zorian Of New York water soluble classic pomade for a high shine which will make the hard part stand out even more and give the hair a strong hold that will last all day. It is very important that the hair is completely dry when the pomade is applied. If the hair is slightly damp it will dilute the product and will not firm up and give the hair a firm hold.

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured Top

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured TopThis short clipper cut hairstyle with textured top for women very popular. Miley Cyrus shocked everyone when she cut her hair off a few years ago but when done correctly these haircuts look incredibly stylish. When cutting these women’s hairstyles an understanding of how to leave a natural feminine outline is especially important. Barbers are increasingly cutting more of these haircuts because of their versatile skills with short hair.  A few different barbering techniques are extremely important to deliver on this hairstyle. They include: barber shear over comb, straight razor over comb, thinning shear over comb, clipper over comb, and clipper blending.

To begin the haircut start on the top. Pick up a center section starting in the front and over direct to the middle of the ear leaving the hair longer in the front. Work all the way back to the crown making sure to leave the hair longer in the crown. Repeat this step on each side of the center guide making sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor. This will ensure keeping a square shape so there is weight in the corners.

Texturize the top using a 23 tooth thinning shear so not to take to much hair out. Use the same technique as the barber shear. Start ⅓ of the way down on the shaft of the hair. Close the scissor 3 times while lifting the shear upward. This will create movement.

Horseshoe of the top preparing the sides and back for clipper over comb. Create graduation using the parietal length as a guide. Use the clipper over comb technique with a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR and a 1 ½ blade. This particular blade is very forgiving and will avoid leaving clipper marks due to the length of the teeth and the width of the blade. This works especially well with light colored hair and/or fine hair.

Using slow strokes clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head.While you have the 1 ½ blade on the detachable blade clipper start the outline of the haircut using a scooping motion to begin creating the tapered finish. This will leave a soft feminine outline for the particular style instead of a tight taper or lining off the outline with a finishing clipper.

If the hairline is thick you can use an adjustable clipper in the open position and halfway closed position as long as you drop the clipper down low enough on the neck leaving the hairline soft. Just make sure to get any fuzz off the neck by the collar if there is hair growing there.

Texturize the parietal area and top further with the straight razor over comb technique. This is just like the scissor over comb technique except you are using a straight razor. Use the same steps as on the top. Take a center section with the comb halfway down the shaft of the hair and move the straight razor quickly so it does not pull. Also, by moving the razor quickly and the comb quickly you control how much weight you take out of the hair. When using the straight razor over comb technique in the parietal area make sure to keep the comb parallel to the sides and back. This will leave the necessary weight at the round of the head for the style.

To style this haircut make sure the hair is completely dry before applying product. The hair will stand up and get more of a messy look if you use a hair dryer blow the hair forward first and the back. Getting the heat down to the roots will lift the hair and bring out the texture. Using a blow dryer dry the hair forward, to the side, and then from front to back.

This client likes a matte or dry finish which is perfect for a short female clipper cut hairstyle. The product to achieve this is the Zorian of New York Shaping Paste. It spreads like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York Shaping Paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized which you will notice when you rinse off your hands. Your skin will feel softer as well. The matte paste is water soluble and will rinse out with ease without any leftover residue.

Take a full fingertip portion out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward first and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Style to your desired messy look with or without a slight part.

 

Barbering Demonstrations At Premiere Orlando

Barbering Demonstration At Premiere OrlandoI am very excited and honored to have been selected to give three barbering demonstrations at Premiere Orlando on May 30th, May 31st, and June 1st, 2015. It is a huge honor to be selected to teach among so many talented and internationally know barbers and men’s hairstylists. To be working along side with these artists if a truly humbling experience.

Barbering Demonstrations At Premiere Orlando:

May 30th: 11:00 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.

Barber Shear and Straight Razor Sculpting:

How did barbers cut hair before the invention of the electric clipper? How exciting would it be if you had the versatility in your game to deliver the same accuracy in your hair cutting with a barber shear and straight razor? In this exciting brand new class presented by third generation Master Barber Greg Zorian you will learn just that. Learn how to master the barber shear over comb technique, pick up hair correctly with your fingers, how to sculpt and texturize hair with a straight razor, when to use a traveling guide vs. a stationary guide, and much more. Start incorporating these techniques right away to enhance your finished product, wow your customers, gain an edge on your competition, and most importantly earn more money!

May 31st: 11:00 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.

Fades and Flat-Tops:

It’s all about the clippers! If you are looking for the ultimate in clipper cutting education this class is for you. Greg will teach you the how to use the three clipper system to achieve the best results. Learn how to blend out perfectly balanced fades without any lines of demarcation. Learn how to cut your haircut time in half by eliminating the majority of the blending process while cutting at a slower pace. In this class Greg will also teach you how to master one of the most difficult haircuts in barbering: The Flat-Top. Greg will teach you the most efficient way to cut a square shape on a round object. Learn the concepts behind the flattop in order to deliver that perfect shape with a flawless fade.

June 1st: 11:00 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.

Classic Barbering 101:

What is the difference between classic and modern barbering? In this class you will learn the differences and stunning similarities. Find out how the tools, techniques, and haircuts have changed as well as stayed the same. Watch third generation barber Greg Zorian demonstrate a haircut using the four basic barbering techniques to create styles from the “good old days” as well as today.  Leave this class with a better understanding of the history of our industry as well as what a barber means to his/her community.

Clipper Cutting Class at Michael’s School of Hair Design

Clipper MaintenanceI recently had the opportunity to teach a clipper cutting class at Michael’s School of Hair Design. I was overwhelmed with the hospitality that was shown to me by the school from the personalized  welcome sign to the collage of  of my work hanging up in the classroom. The students were very attentive and eager to learn, the learning leaders were among the friendliest I have met in my travels around the country, and the ownership took time out of their busy day to come and talk with me after the class.

This Andis clipper cutting class featured a power point presentation designed by their Manager of Education and Style Aileen Nunez. The class focused on teaching how to choose the correct clipper for your needs. This was done through a complete explanation of the different types of clippers and motors. For example, there are three different types of motors to choose from that all have their own features and benefits: rotary motor, magnetic motor, and pivot motor with many different styles of clippers in each category to choose from. Next, we talked about the different types of clippers: detachable blade, adjustable blade, trimmers, corded clippers, and cordless clippers. Again, with many different designs to fit your personality. Next up and most importantly was how to maintain you clippers to insure a long useful life. This is done through the proper disinfection, lubrication, and  cleaning before and after each use. A thorough description of all of the motor types, clipper types, and proper maintenance can be found in the Andis catalog.

The clipper cutting class finished up with some fun hair cuts. First we cut a pompadour with a side part cut in using a the Andis MVP detachable blade clipper and an ion battery powered cordless trimmer. The hair was styled with a styling paste, high powered Andis hairdryer, and a Denman vent brush. Next, was a high top fade cut with an Andis Envy clipper with the new pink camouflage design. We used a fading technique for the sides and back and a freehand clipper cutting technique for the top. The ion battery powered cordless trimmer was used for the detailed outlining.

I look forward to the opportunity to go back to Michael’s School of Hair Design to visit everyone I met and teach another class.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 2

This short clipper cut is a modern version of the side part. This hairstyle is generally shorter on the sides with a longer top. It is also a very versatile haircut which can be styled in many different ways. This haircut can also be referred to as a short pompadour as well. The most common ways this haircut is styled:

1. Parted to the side with a wet look and some height in the front

2. Parted to the side with a messy dry finish and some height in the front.

Short Clipper Cut – Part 2

1. Use a detachable blade clipper with a number one blade. This clipper and blade combination will remove a large amount of hair with ease. Also use a large clipper comb to control the hair. Start in the right side burn area and use the clipper over comb technique. Cut to but not into the previous guide from the round of the head section.

2. Cut one panel at a time and work your way around the head. Make sure to move the comb slow so you don’t miss any sections. The slower you move the comb the more blended the haircut will be.

3. Dip the comb down slightly in the back to allow for the crown. This will keep the crown length longer so it does not stand up.

4. Complete the above steps to the left side burn and temple area.

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