Archive | How To Cut Hair

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured Top

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured TopThis short clipper cut hairstyle with textured top for women very popular. Miley Cyrus shocked everyone when she cut her hair off a few years ago but when done correctly these haircuts look incredibly stylish. When cutting these women’s hairstyles an understanding of how to leave a natural feminine outline is especially important. Barbers are increasingly cutting more of these haircuts because of their versatile skills with short hair.  A few different barbering techniques are extremely important to deliver on this hairstyle. They include: barber shear over comb, straight razor over comb, thinning shear over comb, clipper over comb, and clipper blending.

To begin the haircut start on the top. Pick up a center section starting in the front and over direct to the middle of the ear leaving the hair longer in the front. Work all the way back to the crown making sure to leave the hair longer in the crown. Repeat this step on each side of the center guide making sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor. This will ensure keeping a square shape so there is weight in the corners.

Texturize the top using a 23 tooth thinning shear so not to take to much hair out. Use the same technique as the barber shear. Start ⅓ of the way down on the shaft of the hair. Close the scissor 3 times while lifting the shear upward. This will create movement.

Horseshoe of the top preparing the sides and back for clipper over comb. Create graduation using the parietal length as a guide. Use the clipper over comb technique with a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR and a 1 ½ blade. This particular blade is very forgiving and will avoid leaving clipper marks due to the length of the teeth and the width of the blade. This works especially well with light colored hair and/or fine hair.

Using slow strokes clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head.While you have the 1 ½ blade on the detachable blade clipper start the outline of the haircut using a scooping motion to begin creating the tapered finish. This will leave a soft feminine outline for the particular style instead of a tight taper or lining off the outline with a finishing clipper.

If the hairline is thick you can use an adjustable clipper in the open position and halfway closed position as long as you drop the clipper down low enough on the neck leaving the hairline soft. Just make sure to get any fuzz off the neck by the collar if there is hair growing there.

Texturize the parietal area and top further with the straight razor over comb technique. This is just like the scissor over comb technique except you are using a straight razor. Use the same steps as on the top. Take a center section with the comb halfway down the shaft of the hair and move the straight razor quickly so it does not pull. Also, by moving the razor quickly and the comb quickly you control how much weight you take out of the hair. When using the straight razor over comb technique in the parietal area make sure to keep the comb parallel to the sides and back. This will leave the necessary weight at the round of the head for the style.

To style this haircut make sure the hair is completely dry before applying product. The hair will stand up and get more of a messy look if you use a hair dryer blow the hair forward first and the back. Getting the heat down to the roots will lift the hair and bring out the texture. Using a blow dryer dry the hair forward, to the side, and then from front to back.

This client likes a matte or dry finish which is perfect for a short female clipper cut hairstyle. The product to achieve this is the Zorian of New York Shaping Paste. It spreads like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York Shaping Paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized which you will notice when you rinse off your hands. Your skin will feel softer as well. The matte paste is water soluble and will rinse out with ease without any leftover residue.

Take a full fingertip portion out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward first and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Style to your desired messy look with or without a slight part.

 

Barbering Techniques Class at Jake’s Place – Day 1

I recently had the opportunity to teach a barbering techniques class at Jake’s Place which is an upscale barber shop and men’s spa in Norfolk, Virginia. The barbershop is immaculate and has an incredible staff, management, and ownership. The two day class was a combination of look and learn and hands on. The goal was to learn new men’s hair cutting techniques as well as improve face shaving skills. We covered so much material I decided to make this a two part blog series.

Barbering Techniques Class at Jake’s Place – Day 1

Day 1 Morning Session: Look and Learn

The motivated staff came in on Sunday (which was their day off) and we started off with introductions to get to know each other before we got started. I  like to get a little background on everyone and what their trouble areas are so I make sure to address them along with my already prepared presentation. Next, we moved on to the look and learn portion of the day. The first client was growing out a buzz cut so it was the perfect opportunity to show the staff one of the most popular men’s hairstyle’s named “The Princeton”. I was able to demonstrate fading techniques which almost completely eliminate the blending step by starting with the larger blades and fading down in stead of up. This way you never make a line in your haircut so there is no need to blend it out. Then we had a traditional business cut model where I was able to demonstrate the scissor over comb and clipper over comb techniques. We also had a chance to talk about the importance of head shape, face shape, and natural hairlines vs. tapered hairlines. The last model of the morning was a bald fade finished off with a straight razor on the sides and back of the head. This gave me a chance to demonstrate how to fade down without leaving a line again with the smaller blades. The biggest issue the staff was having was fading out the line they were making with the straight razor. I was able to add one step to solve their problem. I shaved the head with a foil shaver first which cuts a lot closer than a trimmer. This way when you shave the head with the razor you do not put a line in.

Day 1 Afternoon Session: Hands on Haircuts

The afternoon session was a lot of fun but very busy. All 12 staff members had models coming with only six chairs. This gave each staff member a chance to do a haircut while their partner watched. It was my job to go back and forth between stations and supervise. I started out by conducting the consultation with each barber before they began the haircut so I could instruct them the best way to approach the haircut and which new barbering techniques they learned from the morning session to use. We had many challenging heads of hair to work with. Their were a few haircuts that stood out the most for me due to their level of difficulty. The first model was our Asian American model. His hair was so straight we had to decide how high to bring up the fade and what to do with the top to create a visual blend. We decided to section off the top and taper up the sides without any skin showing. Then we cut the top slightly and used a dryer to style the hair to the side and back to create a visual blend. The next difficult model we had was an African American gentleman who decided to go with a burst fade. This is usually not that difficult of a haircut but after the shampoo, conditioning, and drying process we discovered that his last haircut at another barbershop left the top of his hair with chunks of hair cut out and areas with excess hair. Our first challenge was to pick it all out and evenly cut the top before beginning the fade. After that step was completed we faded the sides and finished off the haircut with a sharp outline. For all of the rest of the haircuts the barbers practiced the new fading technique they learned of fading down instead of up to eliminate the blending step, using a traveling guide instead of a stationary guide when picking up hair with their fingers, and the scissor over comb technique.

By the end of the day everyone was exhausted but had a great educational experience. I even had the opportunity to give one of the female barbers a haircut which allowed me to demonstrate a few different straight razor hair cutting techniques.

To book your next barbering class for your salon, barbershop, or school please contact edu@howtocuthair.tv or call (518)629-5394.

How To Cut A High Fade

How To Cut A High FadeOne of the most challenging haircuts in barbering is the high fade. Everyone’s head shape is different. Everyone’s hair texture is different. When learning how to cut a high fade the two most important things to keep in mind is to never cut past the round of the head and do not take the shortest length too high which will leave you without any room to blend to the top.

How To Cut A High Fade:

1. Start by cutting the top first. Removing the bulk from the top will make it easier to visualize where to best cut the fade.

2. Cut the parietal area. Remove the bulk from this area so you do not lose sight of the cutting blade which can result in not leaving enough room for the blend.

3. Start with you largest blade and work down through the smaller blades. Make sure to leave a little room in between blade sizes to create the fading effect. This will eliminate leaving a line and the blending step altogether.

4. Complete the outline with a trimmer. Line up the side burns and shave the back of the neck with an upward stroke to avoid leaving a line and ruining the taper or fade.

5. Style the hair to the customers preference.

Men’s Haircutting Demonstration at The DiGrigoli School of Cosmetology

Recently I had a chance to give a men’s haircutting demonstration at The DiGrigoli School Of Cosmetology. This is one of my favorite schools to visit. The owner Paul DiGrigoli is a nationally renowned motivational speaker and creates a very exciting atmosphere at the school. I had a great time with and awesome group of students. They were very polite and attentive and a few of them made for great hair cut models.

I taught the students about the four basic barbering techniques as well as gave them some advice on the best tools to invest in when they graduate and get their first job in the industry. I demonstrated four very different haircuts for the students. The first haircut was a barbershop regular haircut that focused primarily on the scissor over comb technique. Next up was a side part hairstyle with the part razor cut into the haircut. The third haircut was a graduated hair in which I showed the students how to create a shorter outline faded in to a longer top without creating a weight line or line of demarcation that needed to be blended out. Lastly, I cut a female version of the Pompadour haircut with an undercut.

I had a blast with a great bunch of people and can’t wait to go back in a few months to demonstrate the art of barbering again.

How To Cut In A Side Part

We have just released a new video available to all of our premium members called the Modern Side Part. In this video you will learn how to fade hair correctly as well as how to cut in a side part. How To Cut In A Part

The Modern Side Part hairstyle is a really interesting take on an old classic and is very versatile. The sides are either short or faded really close. The fade can be even all the way around or disconnected on the part side depending on the customers preference. In other words, the hair can be faded all the way up to the part but blended on the opposite side. Finally, the part is cut into the haircut. This is done with the finishing clipper by cutting a thin line along the natural part. Depending on the length on the top the hair can be styled flat to the head or with some height like a Pompadour.

How To Cut In A Side Part:

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