Author Archive | Greg Zorian

Comb Over with Hard Part

The Comb over with hard part is the most popular haircut in the barbering world today. I have been in the industry as a service provider and educator for over two decades and it is always interesting and fun to keep up with the changes on the classic haircuts. This particular cut when I started was referred to as a regular boy’s haircut. Now with the modern/retro twist (this is actually a 1920’s style) the name has changed and so have some of the techniques. Such as when I started no one would ever think of taking a straight razor and shave in the part area. Also, pomades were just starting to get popular but most haircuts were styled with gel, hair spray, or a combination of the two.

In this video you will learn many different barbering techniques including: barber shear over comb, thinning shear over comb, fading, blending, and straight razor shaving. You will also learn the finer points on the hand dexterity necessary for these techniques. In other words: how to hold the comb, shears, clippers, and straight razor properly allowing for the correct posture as well as optimum finished results.

For this particular haircut we have combined three different styles into one: a side part, an ivy league, and a hard part. The side part is self-explanatory. A classic young man’s haircut. The Ivy League takes it a step further. We cut the crown off and blend it to the top making it much easier to style. Works especially well for young children with difficult cowlicks and just want to get up and go. Lastly, the hard part. We first cut in the part with the trimmer and follow up with the straight razor. In this case we used our Zorian Of New York Shave Gel to get a nice clean line. It is a thick transparent gel infused with aloe vera and shea butter to form a protective barrier between the skin and razor and allow for ultimate comfort without razor burn.

Finally, to complete the finish product comes the styling portion. Very few short haircuts look good without spending some time styling and using one or two products. To get the perfect finished looked we created the shape by blowing drying the hair into place with a small amount of our Zorian Of New York firm hold gel. This will give the straight hair some body and mold difficult hair into place. Lastly, we apply the Zorian Of New York water soluble classic pomade for a high shine which will make the hard part stand out even more and give the hair a strong hold that will last all day. It is very important that the hair is completely dry when the pomade is applied. If the hair is slightly damp it will dilute the product and will not firm up and give the hair a firm hold.

Barber Classes at IBS Las Vegas

IBS Las Vegas

I recently had the honor to teach two barber classes at IBS Las Vegas. It was a pleasure to be associated with such a professional trade show and line up of incredible educators.

My first class was titled: “Eliminate Blending with Reverse Fading”. In this class I taught the importance of starting from the top and working down. In other words if you cut the top first and then begin with your longer blades you avoid leaving a weight line that has to be blended out. Blending is what takes the most time and causes hairstylists and barbers the most stress when it comes to delivering a first class haircut. I had a great model for this class with thick hair that I was also able to demonstrate other barbering techniques such as scissor over fingers, scissor over comb, clipper over comb, over direction to create more length in the front, disconnection, as well as razor sculpting. We finished up with styling techniques featuring our Zorian of New York premium line of men’s hairstyling and shaving products to complete the look.

My second class was titled: “Fades and Flat Tops”. This is one of my favorite classes to teach because of the difficulty of the flat top and its many variations. This is also the haircut that took me personally the longest to learn which makes it so gratifying to teach. In this class we covered the same fading techniques as the previous class. The big difference is with the modern flat top style that I cut I sectioned off the top and cut the sides first. What this accomplished was disconnecting the top from the back of the ear to the front creating a pompadour effect. This style of flat top can also be referred to as a rockabilly flat top. After fading the sides I cut down the top with the scissor over comb technique. Then I applied our Zorian of New York firm hold gel to the damp hair and blow dried the top straight up. Gel is best to get the hair to stand up because once dried it won’t hardened up or is not sticky. Either of these will make it difficult to judge the hair and for the clipper to smoothly glide through. At the end of the hair cut we used our Zorian of New York shaping paste to give the hair a matte finish with a strong hold. All of the hair was brushed up and to the center to complete the modern flat top style.

Once again, if you have never attended the IBS Las Vegas hair show I highly recommend it. There were many classes to choose from including cosmetology, barbering, business, and personal development all taught by reputable and talented educators. I am looking forward to being a part of the show again next year.

Barbering Demonstration at The New York Barber and Beauty Academy

New York Barbering DemonstrationI had the pleasure of teaching 2 barbering demonstrations at The New York Barber and Beauty Academy in Elmira, New York. The first class I taught was to a group of eager to learn barber and cosmetology students. We started the 3 hour barbering demonstration with a presentation on professional development. This is one of my favorite subjects to teach because it contains the secret ingredients to building your chair, building your business, conducting yourself as a professional, and retaining all of your hard earned clients. For me, the best part of this presentation is that it has nothing to do with social media or showing off your work. It has all to do with above and beyond customer service and how to build long lasting relationships. In other words putting all of the focus on clients and potential clients instead of ourselves. The students had many great questions and were extremely attentive. Following the classroom work we moved out to the clinic floor and I demonstrated two haircuts. The first on was a side part hairstyle with a close fade and a hard part cut in with a straight razor. I demonstrated to the students how to take out the difficult blending step by fading from the top down and never creating a line of demarcation that needed to be blended out. To finish off the haircut I demonstrated styling techniques with a vent brush and a hair dryer to create the shape and then applied Zorian Of New York Classic Pomade for a strong hold and high shine. The last model we worked on was a low bald fade with a longer curly top. Again we faded from the top down without creating a line of demarcation to blend out. We finished off the style by using Zorian of New York Grooming Cream which is infused with coconut oil to enhance the curls for a medium hold and medium shine.

The next session was for an incredible group of local industry professionals. For this session I demonstrated three haircuts. A pompadour with a low bald fade, a classic business tapered haircut, and a flat top. These haircuts are the main staples of any large male clientele. We focused on many techniques including reverse fading to eliminate the need for blending the sides to the top, clipper over comb in place of cutting by numbers, barber shear over comb, cutting with the correct posture, and men’s hair styling techniques.

For me, teaching at the New York Barber and Beauty Academy was a great experience. I am very thankful for the opportunity to work with such great students, industry professionals, school ownership, and staff. I am looking forward to going back in the future to teach many more classes including my full day hands on barbering seminar.

Hands on Barber Class at Bridge Ave. Barbershop

Bridge Ave. Barbershop

We recently had the opportunity to teach our one day hands on barber class at the Bridge Ave. Barbershop in Point Pleasant, New Jersey. The owners reached out to us after learning about our intensive one day barber training program expressing interest in helping their staff become more proficient in numerous barbing techniques to better serve their patrons. One of the things we were most excited about was their eagerness to have their staff improve upon their barber shear work. It is our opinion that in barbering today the barber shear over comb technique is becoming a lost art and clippers and attachments are being relied on too much. Our training focuses quite a bit on the importance of barber shear work, posture, and hand dexterity so it was a great fit and an honor to work with the owners and staff. After spending quite a bit of time getting to know the ownership and spending time at their beautiful shop we would highly recommend anyone in the Point Pleasant area looking for a great haircut coupled with great customer service to visit the Bridge Ave. Barbershop.

The class itself focused on many barbering techniques such as barber shear over fingers, barber shear over comb, clipper over comb, free hand clipper cutting, texturizing shear over comb, straight razor over comb, and razor sculpting. We applied these techniques to today’s popular hairstyles such as side parts, pompadours, fades, and flattops with a focus on over direction and disconnection to get these modern looks. Finally, we worked on many styling techniques so the barbers would be able to teach their customers how to maintain their new hairstyles until their next cut. In doing so our goal was also to help the barbershop and staff increase their barber product sales to improve their profitability as well.

We would like to express our appreciation to Chelsea and Shain for placing their belief in our cutting, styling, and retail system to help them grow their business and help them motivate their staff to become even better barbers. We look forward to our next trip back to their beautiful town and barbershop.

 

 

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured Top

Short Female Clipper Cut with Textured TopThis short clipper cut hairstyle with textured top for women very popular. Miley Cyrus shocked everyone when she cut her hair off a few years ago but when done correctly these haircuts look incredibly stylish. When cutting these women’s hairstyles an understanding of how to leave a natural feminine outline is especially important. Barbers are increasingly cutting more of these haircuts because of their versatile skills with short hair.  A few different barbering techniques are extremely important to deliver on this hairstyle. They include: barber shear over comb, straight razor over comb, thinning shear over comb, clipper over comb, and clipper blending.

To begin the haircut start on the top. Pick up a center section starting in the front and over direct to the middle of the ear leaving the hair longer in the front. Work all the way back to the crown making sure to leave the hair longer in the crown. Repeat this step on each side of the center guide making sure to keep your fingers parallel to the floor. This will ensure keeping a square shape so there is weight in the corners.

Texturize the top using a 23 tooth thinning shear so not to take to much hair out. Use the same technique as the barber shear. Start ⅓ of the way down on the shaft of the hair. Close the scissor 3 times while lifting the shear upward. This will create movement.

Horseshoe of the top preparing the sides and back for clipper over comb. Create graduation using the parietal length as a guide. Use the clipper over comb technique with a detachable clipper similar to the oster classic 76, Andis BGRC, Andis MVP, Oster Octane, Andis Supra ZR and a 1 ½ blade. This particular blade is very forgiving and will avoid leaving clipper marks due to the length of the teeth and the width of the blade. This works especially well with light colored hair and/or fine hair.

Using slow strokes clipper up the sides and back of the head. Make sure when you get to the top you take an imaginary line straight up in the air until you run out of hair. This will create a fading and blending effect into the top so you do not have any heavy lines of demarcation to blend out. Complete this step all of the way around the head.While you have the 1 ½ blade on the detachable blade clipper start the outline of the haircut using a scooping motion to begin creating the tapered finish. This will leave a soft feminine outline for the particular style instead of a tight taper or lining off the outline with a finishing clipper.

If the hairline is thick you can use an adjustable clipper in the open position and halfway closed position as long as you drop the clipper down low enough on the neck leaving the hairline soft. Just make sure to get any fuzz off the neck by the collar if there is hair growing there.

Texturize the parietal area and top further with the straight razor over comb technique. This is just like the scissor over comb technique except you are using a straight razor. Use the same steps as on the top. Take a center section with the comb halfway down the shaft of the hair and move the straight razor quickly so it does not pull. Also, by moving the razor quickly and the comb quickly you control how much weight you take out of the hair. When using the straight razor over comb technique in the parietal area make sure to keep the comb parallel to the sides and back. This will leave the necessary weight at the round of the head for the style.

To style this haircut make sure the hair is completely dry before applying product. The hair will stand up and get more of a messy look if you use a hair dryer blow the hair forward first and the back. Getting the heat down to the roots will lift the hair and bring out the texture. Using a blow dryer dry the hair forward, to the side, and then from front to back.

This client likes a matte or dry finish which is perfect for a short female clipper cut hairstyle. The product to achieve this is the Zorian of New York Shaping Paste. It spreads like a cream without clumping in your hands or your hair and has a very strong hold. The Zorian of New York Shaping Paste is also infused with the powerful antioxidant vitamin E which helps to keep your hair and scalp healthy. It also contains rosemary which will keep your hair and scalp moisturized which you will notice when you rinse off your hands. Your skin will feel softer as well. The matte paste is water soluble and will rinse out with ease without any leftover residue.

Take a full fingertip portion out of the jar and emulsify in your hands. Rub throughout the hair by pushing it forward first and then back getting the product down to the roots for extra hold. Style to your desired messy look with or without a slight part.

 

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